Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2014 - Hesitates From Dead Stop?
Jul 4, 2014
I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
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a little history here, about 2 years ago I got my first P401 so I changed the egr valve and it went away for a little while. Then I came back several months later and changed it again. along with the P401 I get heavy black smoke when taking off from a dead stop and after it gets a little speed it will run good. Here lately it seems I can only get 2 weeks to a month between cleaning the EGR valve.
Each time I clean it has a bb size piece of carbon stuck and is holding the valve open and there are several more under the EGR valve. each time I try to vacuum the carbon chunks out and clean everything as best I can. As of now I'm fed up with it and would like to do something to make it more reliable. would taking the intake off and cleaning completely and adding a EGR delete kit eliminate the carbon from building up?
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I have experienced a hesitation on my truck since I purchased it 6 months ago. I get a one to two second hesitation at take off from a stop. I have checked the back pressure tube and the one that goes to the turbo controller no problems. I have a Edge CTS programmer that only shows ... for EBP.
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My 2003 2.0 Zetec focus wagon has a problem when I hit the gas from a dead stop. The car hesitates for a second or 2, like it's not getting enough fuel, then it revs up OK. Not all the time though, about 1 in every 5 stops. Once it's moving, there's no problem, you can accelerate just fine. I replaced the fuel filter and added fuel treatment. I also saw it had a real bad valve cover leak that had flooded all the spark plug wells. I replaced the gasket, plugs and wires, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Using a scanner, I monitored fuel pressure at idle, it was about 38.5 PSI. When I hit the gas it it went up to about 40 PSI. I think maybe the ignition module/coil might be going out, but don't want to replace it unless I have to.
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I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
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07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
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My truck recently has been giving me the issue of wither having no boost , bogging down as its trying to excelerate , then going into overboost. It idles fine , i have cleaned out the egr . I'm at a complete list on what to do at this point the truck is a 2007 F250 6.0l
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
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I have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
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I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
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Recently I have been experiencing dead pedal every now and again, but it eventually comes back. Its happened on the interstate a couple of times and that can get pretty dangerous. Now I am having issues with a no start condition out of no where. It will eventually crank but it churns and churns for a VERY long time, like 15- 30 mins before it will fire again. This has happened twice now. Here are the codes I pulled from Torque:
P0263
P0281
P0299
P0528
Where this is all coming from? I thought at first bad TPS on the adjustable pedals, but now with the no start condition, could it be fuel pump related? Yesterday I was at the dump and it was idling, then got real erratic and shut down. Then wouldn't start for 20 minutes.
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My batteries go dead over night, had them checked but they say there good, can't figure out what's causing them to die.
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I had a crank no start with very low hpo pressure. I went to do an air test and could not get my IPR valve to do anything with 12 volts applied. I have a switch wired to it, and went as far as wiring the IPR valve directly to the battery and got nothing. This is a brand new ipr valve, never seen a mile of driving, and I'm wondering if my luck could really be bad enough to get a bad one in the box, or if it could be my truck that's frying them. I have cranked on it a lot trying to start, but I have a feeling this IPR is to blame. I'm on my way to get a warranty replacement now. If my truck could frying them, would that be just a bad ground or what? Any way to test my wiring? I have a multimeter...
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For probably years, I have had a bump, thump type noise when I start from a dead stop... say at a red light. I had it in my head, maybe there was that much slop in the drive train... as old truck is over 400,000 miles.
Yesterday, I rebuilt the driver's side axle, bearing,seals, new hub...the works.. I heard that noise again later... and my thoughts were, I did all that work and I'm going to find a lower/upper ball joint is bad, although I did look at them and thought they were fine during the rebuild.
Had my wife get in truck.... and swing wheel back & forth... so maybe I could see what was loose.. or making noise.
I was shocked... just something I never thought of looking at. The u-bolts holding the leaf springs were loose... the whole axle was shifting back and forth on the axle. I've never touched those bolts....
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July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
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Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
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I have had my truck for 13k miles and have been working through all the to-do items. Monday my FICM went dead, I got a replacement with 2 new batteries (ALT was ok 140 amp). Today I pulled the EGR valve for cleaning and noticed it was very moist but pretty clean. I looked down inside the intake and notice it was oily/wet. Is this a leaking EGR cooler issue or could the FICM going bad have something to do with it as well?
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