Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2014 F350 - Two Cylinders Misfiring
Jul 1, 2017
2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
View 14 Replies
Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
View 5 Replies
My 2014 350 DRW has a battery problem......If it sets for a couple hours, it won't start. With a jump from a very small battery box, it starts right up. I charged it last week for 4 hours and still when in OKC it would need to be jumped at each restart. Do I have one of the batteries going bad.....
View 6 Replies
I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
View 14 Replies
Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
View 14 Replies
It's at 65k miles, was sitting around for half a year with a previous owner. Started with hpo issue that I seem to have resolved with new ipr. I'm also doing injector seals, nipple cups and dummy plugs in the meantime to seal off the system.
I had ran a compression test with a 300psi gauge on a couple cylinders as I was changing glow plugs and harness, and they showed above 350 psi. A couple others showed barely 150, so I figured I blew up the gauge. That's when I went and bought a harbor freight diesel gauge and while I was waiting for the otc adapter whip to come in I took apart the oil rail and was getting ready to do injector seals and nipple cups.
I have now tested all the cylinders with the proper gauge but only to get the same dreadful result low compression ranging from 150-200 and rising 50 only with a bit of oil added to the cylinder.
If I don't have compression I'm obviously not going to get it to start although everything else showed up good on the torque gauges before it was apart. Why I don't have compression on any cylinders? I'm getting a new compression gauge today just in case, but seems unlikely it's the gauge.
View 14 Replies
I've got an injector #7 misfire, so it looks like I'll be replacing my first stick since the warranty expired.
Does the injector from Ford come with the copper crush washer? Will I need to buy anything else except for the oring kit?
where is injector 7? edit: it looks like number 7 is the farthest back on the passenger side. Great! I get to do the hard side.
AE pics below. I've never understood the Power Balance test, it most always looks the same. Seems to me something should look odd with #7, but I'm just not seeing it. As I shut down each cylinder one at a time, all made the engine run noticeably rougher, except it was only a subtle difference when shutting down #7. So that plus the code pointing at #7 lead me to believe that #7 is my culprit.
View 14 Replies
I have an '03 that misfires. The FICM was replaced around a year ago. FICM volts are at a steady 48. I recently change oil and used a Ford oil filter and cap with new o-ring. I also had the starter changed recently. It now spins over so fast, it reminds me of a gas engine without spark plugs! It starts up every time with no trouble, has plenty of acceleration, and seems to run great, except for the misfiring. It seems to misfire worse when warmed up.
I added some good diesel additive to the fuel, hoping that may work, but it did not. I've been doing some reading in different places and am thinking of disconnecting the ICP sensor and see if it works. I also am considering trying some RevX, or similar stiction additive, but from what I've read, stiction is a cold start and chugging problem, of which I have neither. I have a ScanGuageII with many of the X gauges programmed in, but I am not quite sure what direction I should go.
View 3 Replies
I have a 04 6.0 and lost with it. I parked it the other night and in the morning I went to start it and it acts like it's only running on half the cylinders. I haven't had any issues till now so I replaced fuel filters and air cleaner is fresh but no change. It is not throwing a check engine light it isn't smoking excessively. I don't know where to check next.
View 5 Replies
While I had my glow plugs out to crank the motor for the HPOP work I have done I checked the compression on all the cylinders. 6 of the cylinders were 275-280, got 250 and 110 on the others. I put oil in both the low cylinders and the 250 went to 260 and 110 went to 150. I pressurized the low cylinder and with the valves closed it was leaking out the exhaust manifold also had a small amount of coolant come out the water pump. Removed the cylinder head and didn't see anything unusual with the cylinder that was reading low in fact the if was the best looking cylinder of the four with nice looking crosshatch on the cylinder wall.
The other three cylinders has some slight brown haze on them which I assume is rust. This motor probably hasn't run in 18 months and the truck was a non-runner when I purchased as a theft recovery, no history on the truck. Taking the one head to a shop for them to check it out. What's the opinions out there with the low compression? Be ok once it runs and rings get coated with oil? The motor is out of the truck so maybe I should tear it down completely hone and put new rings in it.
View 2 Replies
03 6.0 with 90k miles. New heads, all orings , stand pipes, injectors , glow plugs, egr delete , oil cooler and studs . Has sct livewire. Just took the truck to the shop for a hard start issue and misfiring at around 30% throttle driving. It would fire up great in the mornings with some white/blue smoke till warm. But after it was warmed up you shut it off it would fire right back up but very slow to reach proper idle.
But if it set for about an hour it would crank great start but same lazy idle up but now it wouldn't get over 300 rpm before it would die. And do this for 5 or so more times before finally idling up. Then runs pretty good other than the misfire. So he said it's either the hpop ipr or icp. I had him replace all 3 with motorcraft parts. Still the same issue ! Return the truck to stock tune and it doesn't have any power . My pockets are only so deep...
View 5 Replies
I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
View 14 Replies
I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
View 14 Replies
So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
View 6 Replies
Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
View 14 Replies
I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
View 9 Replies
2016 F350 6.7; ccsrw, 22K on truck (zero issues previously). Stock other than titan fuel tank that was installed at 100 miles.
700 miles into todays trip, pulling trailer, snowing, in 4x4, tow/haul; pulled out to pass, got into it for a bit and got "reduced engine power" error, truck slowed, would not show boost on gauge, wouldn't rev over ~1900. CEL is on.
Pulled over, stopped, checked under/over and didn't find anything. Shut off truck, started back up, CEL is still on, but truck runs OK. Ran for another 20 miles or so and was OK for how I drove it (including boost showing on gauge). Not hot rodding, crappy road conditions (snow). Got on a big hill from dead start and got into it a bit, about 3K same error came on and she went back into limp mode. Same deal, stopped, shut off, back on, was able to keep going. Was only couple miles from motel at that point, so she is on break right now.
Of course I'm 400 miles from home and nowhere near a dealer. I have a code scanner, but nothing with me to pair it with (daughter has tablet with her, ha ha).
Should I keep going or find a dealer/tow/other? If she will keep running "normally" below 3K, then I can make it home as I don't need to horse it that bad on the roads I'll be on.
Truck has had fuel filters replaced on schedule, dealer has done all service work (oil, etc). Fuel filters were done 7500 miles ago.
This trip, was on third tank of fuel. Had just put in 30 gallons at last (big) truck stop about 15 miles before this issue happened, have 50 miles on this tank. That was 30 gallons into 50 gallon tank.
View 14 Replies
The truck (2012 f350 6.7 lb cc 131,600 miles) started fine. Then while i was setting up the defrost i accidentally hit the ac button. Well I then hit it again to turn off. At that point the engine stalled. Which has never happened to me before. I started it back up which took a bit longer to get it to fire. It now says "Reduced engine power" and runs kinda rough. I thought well im at the end of my fuel filters life so why not change it since i had one. Well the. The FF housing broke. After replacement FF housing and filter it will no longer start. I took the filter back off and checked to see if it was cross threaded or sucking air. I checked that twice. Still no start cranks fast and strong. Codes are
P2138 something to do with the gas pedal
P0193 fuel rail sensor A high
P06A6 voltage on circuit A is whacky (paraphrasing here)
P0532 ac pressure sensor low
View 7 Replies
My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
View 8 Replies
I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
View 2 Replies
