Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2014 F350 - Axle Gear Change?
Dec 13, 2014
I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
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So I replaced ball joints and hub bearings on driver side of the truck today ( passenger side tomorrow). Problem is when I pulled the axle out gear oil started to leak from axle housing not a lot but a leak nonetheless. Is this normal or did I break something.
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2013 Ford F-350, CC. Lariat.
This may be very simple, but this morning I received "Change Oil Soon" warning. I had the oil changed at about 20,500. Current odometer is about 22,530. I am thinking that when the oil was changed the garage did not reset the oil life in the message center.
There may be something else going on that I may need to look at. Have not had a chance to get into the Owners manual as this happened 30 minutes ago on the way to work.
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I have a 2005 f350 king ranch,I have a kinda weird problem.the truck starts up and runs great as long as I let it get to normal temp.but if the motor is cold it will idle fine but if I goto put it in gear it just dies.sounds like tc is locking but I don't get any codes.
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My 2014 350 DRW has a battery problem......If it sets for a couple hours, it won't start. With a jump from a very small battery box, it starts right up. I charged it last week for 4 hours and still when in OKC it would need to be jumped at each restart. Do I have one of the batteries going bad.....
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2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
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My Father In-law has a 2012 f-350 Dually with 4K miles. He tows a 9K lb camper and until our last trip the truck ram flawlessly. On our return from Myrtle Beach to central NC we were on a freeway traveling at 63 MPH and his tranny would not shift into 6th gear. Tow haul was on. There was some headwind (10MPH) but no large grades or any reason we can think of not to allow an up shift. His display did show a countdown to empty of the exhaust fluid 450 miles to empty.
He took the truck in for service and no codes were found. Dealer did not find any TSB's addressing the tranny issues. Is the sixth gear up shift in tow haul set very conservative? Does it hold 5th unless the load is below a certain value? Other trips we have been on have been mountain towing so 6th gear shift would have been on down hill or level sections. Dealer wants us to bring it to them when it won't up shift next time but dealer is not along a freeway.
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I have a 2015 F350, sometimes the info center will show what gear I am in and sometimes it won't. Why or what I can do so it shows all the time?
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My truck is fairly new. Its a 2015 Ford F350 with 6000 Miles. I live on the east coast in a 4 seasons climate. Its summer the average temp. is in the lower 90's. Recently, I have noticed that my truck has been shuddering and shaking between 5th & 6th gear.
It started when I was changing lanes; I tried to accelerate going about 45mph, and shuddering real hard. It was difficult to maintain my speed on a level surface. It was almost a total loss of power with no trouble codes.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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My Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
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So I noticed the other day that my front axle is tilted forward a little bit. Would this cause any problems or will it be alright.? If it's going to cause problems, how can I fix it.?
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Last night we had some serious rain and I went through a pretty deep water puddle at speed. I didn't see it until I was right on top of it. This morning I see a vent line of some sort hanging under the truck. The end is attached to the real axle on the left side and on the other end is a plastic connector. I have searched high and low and can not see where this connects to.
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I have to change out the inner seals on my front axle on my 04 f250 6.0 4x4. was wondering what the torch spects are for the bolts on the end caps and the torch spects on the differential cover? I already have the passenger side axle out. was changing my ball joints on that side when I noticed a bunch of oil in the axle case and on the hub knuckle. Also, this might be a long shot but is there any way to change the inner seal on the drivers side without taking out the axle on that side? I have the passenger out and if I could get away without pulling the driver side that would be awesome.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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I was updating the firmware on my mini max tuner today and decided to calibrate for the 37" tires. After calibration was done I got the code P1635, which is "Tire/Axle Out of Acceptable Range". Should I bring it back down to 34" where the FORD ECU stops calibrating? I mite have lost traction control with this calibration as well. Mite find out tomorrow if I get an itchy foot. Truck seemed to drive better and pull harder off the line....low rpm's.
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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