Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2014 F250 - Codes P207F And P04DB
Sep 21, 2015
I have a 2014 F250 CCSB that I bought new, I now have 41,000 mi on the truck. Earlier this year it had the P207F code come up and subsequently the computer derated the power to idle. I was able to get it to the dealership and they could not figure out why the truck had this code come up, it is an exhaust fluid CEL. They went through a sequence of steps to include holding the RPMs at 1800 and the 2500 for about 5-10 minutes until one of the EGT sensors hit a certain temp, then the code cleared from the computer. They gave me the truck back and told me it would likely happen again.
Over the summer I had this happen twice more, however these times, I cleared the code, ran the truck at 1800 rpm, and the code cleared, all would be ok for a while.
Then about 1.5 weeks ago the truck had both of the mentioned codes pop up the same day, first was the P04DB, I cleared it. Then the P207F came up, it would not clear. I dropped it off at the dealership. They were initially quite responsive, and again told me that they could not find a problem with the truck from a mechanical standpoint. However, they could not get the light to clear and the truck was stuck at idle. When they were able to get the light to clear it would come back on in 10 minutes, the idle message has never gone away.
Now it has been at the dealership for 1.5 weeks, I am having issues getting them to even give me an update on the status of the truck and what they plan to do to fix it. They did provide me with a loaner, for which I am grateful to not have to rent a car. However, these are expensive trucks, and I need it for my farm.
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It says "reductant quality performance". I was reduced to idle the other day at the boat launch, with my boat. Called roadside assistance to come get the truck. They said they weren't liable for my boat, had to call a friend to come get it. Bring the truck to the dealer and he blames it on the DEF I bought, non motorcraft. I purchased ford DEF, siphoned the old stuff out and refilled with the ford DEF. Went out of town on a fishing trip and got the CEL again.
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2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
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I posted a few threads about the P04DB code over the past several months. Last month while on vacation it came back and this time I was getting an engine light. So I finally got around to taking it in. The A/C blower was also making a clicking noise so I thought I would take care of both of those. At 41k and 42 months in service, the factory drive train warranty covered the CCV sensor replacement. The fan blower had to be replaced. So if getting that P04DB past 3/36, it is covered under the 5/60.
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I have a problem with my 2005 F250 6.0 with about 156,000 give or take. Started having a problem a few weeks ago started missing and fuel mileage went south and had it scanned. Codes pulled was P0279 and P0281, I was told probably #7 injector bad so I replaced it cleared the codes and Cranked right up no problems until a few moments later the truck started acting up again. Run smooth than rough idle, smooth, rough idle. Same codes! Tested the FICM while on the truck, it showed like 47.5 volts before cranking and 48 volts when cranked.
I have tested the Ohms between the Injector harness end and FICM end. Pin #2,3,4 all showed 0.3 Ohms, #1 did not even register like 0.L on my Ohmmeter. Took FICM all the way off and it made a rattling sound inside, took it apart and about 4 pieces of what a buddy says where resisters. SO I guess my question would be , is FICM bad? Did something short it out, and/or is the number 1 injector wire bad. Plus the when I took the FICM off the back 2 bolts where loose, so I guess the FICM was bouncing up and down maybe. The front 2 where tight.
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I have a 2011 F-250 with 112k miles.
On 11/25/2016 at approximately 110k miles: my truck was 100% stock. I was about a half hour into a 3 hour drive and I got a Check Engine Light. I stopped to get some food and my truck was idling for about 10 minutes when the light came on. My code reader said it was for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I cleared the code, restarted the truck and drove away.. I drove about another 5 minutes until I started hearing a real bad air leak and the truck just didn't feel like it was driving right. Check engine light never came back on, but it just didn't feel right so I towed it home.
The truck went to the dealer, they said they found the EGR Inlet Tube was cracked, and that explained the air leak sound I heard when I continued driving, and they said the truck was probably running rich from the lack of air and that set the P0278 code. They replaced the tube and everything was fine.
On 12/14/2016 with around 111,500 miles: upset that just one pipe breaking could take down the whole truck with no one having that part in stock to get me back on the road, I "deleted" my truck. Removed the DPF, installed "block-off" plates for the EGR (which goes in place of the EGR inlet tube), a Cold-Air Intake, and H&S MiniMaxx. (Exact parts can be found in my signature).
On 12/25/2016 with around 112,500 miles: I was getting ready for work and I started my truck using the Ford Factory Remote Start that was original equipment on the truck. The truck ran for about 10 minutes when I hopped in it and took off. As soon as I got in it, The Check Engine Light was on and I had a code for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I erased the code and restarted the truck.. drove to work (around 50 miles) with no problems. Truck ran fine, I never felt any problems, and no smoke or anything like that.
10 hours later I'm getting ready to leave work and let the truck run on remote start for 10 minutes. I hop in the truck and drive away.. there's no check engine light, but, my tuner says there's two DTC's.. P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance" and now P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance"... I cleared the codes, restarted the truck, and drove home with no problems.
12/26/2016 I started the truck on remote start again for 10 minutes. No check engine light, but the tuner says there's one DTC for P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance". Cleared the code, restarted the truck, and drove to work with no problems. Got back in the truck after 12 hours, drove home and didn't get a DTC or Check Engine Light on the drive home.
12/27/2016: No DTC's or Check Engine light. Where I should start looking to fix this?
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My 2011 F250 6.7 started throwing multiple codes a couple of weeks ago. I cleared them but they all came back at the same time. What these are pointing to? I'm assuming they're all related?
P0402 Exhaust gas flow excessive detection
P1249 Wastegate control valve performance
P0471 Exhaust pressure sensor A circuit range/performance
It throws 9 codes total, the three listed above, 3 times each.
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I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
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I have a 2007 f-250 6.0 liter turbo diesel. I was pulling a trailer with a golf kart on it and was not in tow haul. I was going up a hill and it shot up into 5th gear. I pulled into my house and shut it off and refired it and it acted fine. I went on a little test drive to see if it was going to do it again before I went on my trip. As soon as it shifted into third gear the tow haul light started to flash on my dash and went to 5th gear and would not down shift even if I did it on the column.
I scanned the truck with my snap on modus and it gave me these codes. P0706-transmission range sensor A circuit range/performance, P0707-transmission range sensor A circuit low input, and P1702-transmission range sensor circuit intermittent. I put a transmission harness in it and started it up and it ran fine and the codes were gone. I went for a test drive around the neighborhood and as soon as it hit 3rd gear it did the same thing as before. Today I put the old one back in and checked the codes so I could write them down and there weren't any so I went for a drive and it shifted through all the gears great and downshifted fine as well.
I pulled into my drive way to check for codes once again and there weren't any. I was gonna go for a ride in tow haul to see if it would do it and as soon I put the truck in reverse it started to idle high and the tow haul light started to flash again. I put it in drive to pull back into my drive way and it immediately shifted into 5th gear and threw the same codes...
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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I just bought a new 2014 f250.
He says since he has purchased the truck the TPS sensor would occasionally go off saying there is issues with the tires. Tires are fine yet the light chimes on after being reset shortly. Been at the dealer for a week and they haven't really touched it I was wondering if there is any know issues.
Also my dad had the truck in 4x4 and when he puts the truck in park it made it a loud clunking noise. Ford is said there heavy duty line was full so they didn't look at that ethier. He needs the truck for the weekend so he is picking it up tomorrow, he will return it when he can but does this sound familiar as well?
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2014 F250 Diesel... I got the msg saying 50 miles until speed limited to 50 mph. None of the earlier warnings re adding def. check def on computer and it said it was ok. I even added def and it only took a small amount until it overflowed. It was more than 1/2 full. The error message did not reset. I drove it around for several miles and it still would not reset. Having it services as we speak, and the tech is still having difficulty running down the cause. He has done a regen,and reset the computer and etc and still has not resolved the issue..
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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OK getting these 2 codes PO113 and PO4DA What now have 17,000 miles and a long weekend. Truck has no power barley moves. Can't get it to a dealer till tuesday.
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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Alright so I'm a little frustrated at my truck for the last month. I have a 2013 f350 with 2 codes comming up. P0100-mass or volume air flow circuit and a U0106-lost communication with glow plug control module. I have an H&S tuner with the delete. I changed the MAS and it's still lighting up. The dealer is looking into it cause they didn't foresee any problems with the glow plugs either. I erase the code, shut the truck off and once I start it it's right back on! Frustrating!
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Today on the way home after about 45 min drive my wrench light came on but when I checked for codes on my sct I get no codes. Is that weird or common?
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