I have a 2013 F250 6.7 w/ 96000. I ran over a log and tore the rear section of the exhaust. I was told to buy the OEM version or do the DPF/EGR Delete.
I don't have a lot of $$$$, so which way do I go. Whats the least expensive Delete.
When I got my 2016 back at the end of last October, the pink coolant in the main degas bottle was just visible in the clear top half of the bottle. By the time 5k miles rolled around, the coolant was no longer visible in the clear section. At oil change time, the dealer "topped" it, resulting in it being visible in the tank again. 3k miles later, the coolant has disappeared below the clear part of the bottle again. What gives? The secondary bottle level has not budged. Its clearly not losing a lot, but it is definitely going down slightly.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
View 2 RepliesMy squeal is only present at my tail pipe at rear of truck its a 2007 f350 straight pipe . 6.0 engine. 300'000 miles . just bought this truck . believe turbo has been replaced but not sure as to when. This noise is very loud ear splitting at an idle. Builds boost just fine. No noise at turbo area other than the normal slight whine.
View 6 RepliesWell i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
I first saw them on the 2013 build and price and was thinking that I should look into adding them to my 12. I never got around to looking up part numbers. So, recently I thought of it again and after a little poking found that they could be had as a Ford accessory kit for around $110 depending on your dealer. MSRP is 133 I think. So, I hit the dealer and grabbed a set they had in stock. Install took 30 minutes. Very easy. They give the wheel wells a finished look and offer lots more protection than the small plastic strips on the rear that came with the truck. A hundred or so bucks well spent if you don't have them. There are aftermarket ones that are a touch cheaper on eBay by Rugged Liner but they don't work with the 5th wheel prep which I have.
View 14 RepliesSo this happened yesterday. Heading north for the weekend truck lost power and when I pulled over it quit. I have an Edge CTS and all numbers were good. I talked to a mechanic I know and he said try some brake clean or something in the intake and see if it fires. So I did and it started briefly. I am thinking it is not getting fuel. When I turn the key to the on position I should be able to hear the HPFP but I do not. I believe it is making some faint clicking but not the normal sound. Is there anyway to test either fuel pump. What the problem might be..
View 14 Replies2013 F350 Lariat with the factory OEM rear view camera. I am replacing the tailgate with a 5th wheel tailgate for a few months and would like to still retain the convince of a rear view camera.
I have obtained a Ford camera harness to use as a jumper for a non OEM camera which comes with the standard basic RCA wiring which I plan to mount to the bottom of the 5th wheel tailgate.
My hope is to wire the camera direct to the Ford wire harness which is a 6 wire pigtail. Which wires on the camera mate to which wire on the trucks wire harness.
I was twisting off the DFCM housing when I heard a pop and alot of fuel leaking. It appears I sheared off the 32mm plastic nut. I know for a fact that I was turning it counter clockwise just like the manual stated. Now what do I do? I cant run my SD can I? The simplest solution is to get another housing and install it but im not sure ill be able to get the remnants of the original housing off with out the nut to twist it. I watched Epics video on changing the filter and his came off with little effort? My same story just different result.
View 14 RepliesThis past week my wife and I took a short trip and returned on a gravel road. I went to start my truck the next morning and there was a puddle of diesel fuel on the driveway. When I looked under it, I noticed that the tip of the fuel filter housing is gone and is leaking slowly from there. I called the dealer and they would not fix it on warranty, the truck has 20k on it. The service man said he would not turn this into ford. I've had the similar problems with this particular dealer. It's obvious that a protective cover is needed for this. I kept the part and am thinking of sending it to ford.
View 13 RepliesCouldn't make it 10,000 miles........without a failure.
My driver's side mirror finally broke. It will no longer power fold. It's been slowly dying over the last few weeks, getting slower and slower. Now it won't move on it's own and the electric motor hardly makes any noise/effort trying to move the mirror.
I would assume that should be replaced under warranty but who knows... We'll see what service says about it tomorrow.
I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
Say I just purchased an 06 f250 crew cab with the 6.0.
I had her trailered home due to dead batteries. I got her started up and drove about 5 miles until she got up to operating temp.
When I came to a stop and tried to accelerate, she immediately bogged down and started studdering with white smoke coming from the exhaust.
I shut her down and started her up again. She started and idled fine, but as soon as I pressed on the accelerator, she bogged and studdered again. I shut it down again and started it back up. Normal idle, and I shifted her into gear and was able to mozy on idling forward without having her bog, but as soon as I touch the accelerator, she bogs and studders.
I towed it home and the next day (today) she started just fine and I shifted her into drive and moved it forward about 10 feet. Did not touch the accelerator so she didn't big or studder.
1. I am guessing the white smoke was coolant burning through a failed EGR circuit. Do you seasoned members agree?
2. It the a check engine code when studdering. I have yet to check codes so I am still in diagnosis mode.
3. I plan to block off the EGR pipe and throw in a new oil cooler. Anything else immediate I should be considering??
I have an exhaust smell in the cab of the truck. It is pretty strong. Seems worse when it is really cold outside and goes away when outside temps warm up. I checked the tube (passenger side behind engine) and did not see any soot.
View 12 RepliesWas cold this morning, -15c, and I remote started the truck and then left home about 5min later. I could smell exhaust in the cab. I read some of the other threads about this. How can I tell if it was doing a regen? I have an Edge Insight. Is the a parameter I can display to know the regen was active?
View 14 RepliesLooking for if it would be okay to tune my 6.0 with the SCT SF3 tuner with the stock exhaust, I measured it and the stock exhaust is 3 and 5/8 inches...
View 5 Repliesyesterday I went out started my truck and white smoke started coming out my exhaust so I turned it off waited a bit started it back up let it run for a bit smoke went away drove it about 60 miles. Later that night it did the same thing but I was 2 gallons short on coolant drove it another 60 miles ran fine. Next morning decided to take it to a shop put more coolant in it drove maybe 20 miles to shop got there turned it off everything was fine never over heated once. So this shop is now telling me my trucks hydro locked and I steamed the EGR valve. And there telling me it's gonna be $8000 to fix it .
View 3 RepliesLast winter I pulled something and getting out has been difficult. Climbing in my F 350 even tougher so it hasn't been used much. Now that I'm driving a bit I have not seen it regen. Truck stop regenning, is it possible? What happens if it just stops? It use to regen every 200 miles or so and I have been paying attention.
View 7 RepliesI'm at 76K miles and I had another exhaust sensor go bad. This time the check engine light came on and the truck did not shut down. I was prepared this time and had an extra sensor / code reader handy.
It was the last sensor in line and very easy to get to. It took me less than five minutes to complete the job. I did use anti seize, but as easy as it came out it probably wasn't necessary.
I can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
View 4 RepliesHow difficult is it to change the passenger exhaust manifold? I have just finished replacing the left exhaust manifold. The biggest issue was rusted fasteners and inexperience. Have torches. Any you tube videos show the left manifold being changed but not the right. I do not have a hoist and work in my driveway. Is the right side more difficult and should I leave it to someone with a hoist?
View 4 Replies