Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Maintenance Intervals 7500 Or 5000?
Jan 6, 2013
I'll be running my 2013 f-350 diesel with a 6,500 lb load on it at interstate speeds, steep, western mountain back roads, lots of dirt roads and some tortuous 4x4 in low range 1st gear. Been doing the same thing with a 1988 f-250 for the past 25 years and it was also pulling a four horse trailer. No horses any more but Ford owners manual seems to indicate I should think in terms of 5,000 mi maintainance intervals and use 5w-40 oil. I bought a 7,500 mi maintenance plan. Always did my own before. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 5,000 mi plan and 100% synthetic 5w-40.
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I just got a used F350 with 28k miles I cleaned the battery posts and checked all fluids, changed the fuel filters just in case they were due ( they looked pretty clean), air filter is a WIX had a bunch of bugs in it but still pretty clean... oil monitor says oil OK and filter looks too clean to be that old. It looks like a coolant leak at the turbo was fixed about 1000 miles ago or so and dealer said coolant would have been changed out at that time.
Am I missing anything I should do or check?
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My Prius is now 4 months old and has just just over 5000 miles on it. The Oil Maintenance message is showing in the display. I was told that oil change intervals were 10,000miles.
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It's been 6 months since we've bought our Nissan Leaf, and we've concluded that we'll likely be driving our gas burner (2008 Infiniti G35x, 30K miles) only about 1,000 miles per year, about half of which highway and half on once-a-month trips around town to keep the battery charged, tires round, etc. The owner's manual indicates oil changes every 3 or 6 months (3750 or 7500 miles), depending on whether one follows schedule 1 or 2 (the former for short trips, freezing weather). This is presumably based on the synthetic blend the dealers use; we use full synthetic. If I follow the former, then that will mean changing full synthetic oil every 250 miles, about every three times the car is driven; that seems clearly crazy. Even every 6 months seems very frequent. The car is garage kept, so it's not clear to me how having the oil sitting in the crankcase is terribly different than it sitting in the bottles it's shipped in. Note that I'm not really trying to save money here, but rather the time and trouble to do this.
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If I switch to synthetic will I be able to stretch out my changes? Currently do it @ 5k miles with rotella triple, was thinking about trying T6 and extending changes to 8k miles
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Finally after 423k plus miles on 7.3, bought 13 250 with 6.7, love it but... I noticed some shaking @ 45 mph, below or above no problem and only when cold. I was thinking it could be tires, they are Conti 18" original with 65 psi and I do not pull anything.
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Alright so I'm a little frustrated at my truck for the last month. I have a 2013 f350 with 2 codes comming up. P0100-mass or volume air flow circuit and a U0106-lost communication with glow plug control module. I have an H&S tuner with the delete. I changed the MAS and it's still lighting up. The dealer is looking into it cause they didn't foresee any problems with the glow plugs either. I erase the code, shut the truck off and once I start it it's right back on! Frustrating!
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Sunday on my home I got the dreaded check engine light. Checked it today and got code P2425. What that code is and if it would be normally covered by warranty. I have a 2013 F350 Diesel 6.7 with 59504 miles on it. All stock.
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Just bought a 13 6.7 used. It is in excellent shape but, you turn the key off and it is a few seconds before it dies? Is this maybe something aftermarket the previous owner installed?
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I am looking into getting the full deletes on my 2013 F250 6.7 and using the H&S Mini Maxx Race Tuner unlocked. I was told by my local Diesel Performance Shop I should just unplug the EGR and turn it off by the Tuner rather than investing in the delete kit.
He advised me it would be easier to plug it back in and turn it back on in case I need to take it back to the Dealer for any warranty work He advised me no advantages any way and works the same way. I will be putting on the H&S race tuner, S&B CAI, FLo Pro 5" down pipe back w/ no muffler and UREA delete.
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Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
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I have a 2011 f350 srw 6.7 with 3.55 I found a 2013 f350 drw. I tow a 5th wheel 2 times a year , and the other time use for work about 45 k per year . I am getting 18.0 mpg on highway now, if I trade this and get the 2013 drw what could I get mpg as a daily driver....
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I was going to change the fuel filter on my truck yesterday, but couldn't figure out how the guard comes off. It has a bolt but it also has a rivet in it and looks like its all one piece so Id have to drill the rivet to remove. I tried to just spin the housing off.
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My new to me (2K miles now) 2013 F350 with 52k miles just developed a knock. Oil changed 600 miles ago, Oil level good. No codes or CELs ...
YouTube...
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2013 6.7..46k miles.
I know we have crappy radiators. that's why I bought the premiumcare plan. had that replaced at 45k..200 miles later smelling coolant. take it in they say the water pump is leaking from a "weap hole"...great...get it back..still smell coolant. very fricken frustrated. Not what I expect from a 45,000 dollar truck. especially a 2013....
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July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
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Check engine light is on...not blinking. All fluid levels are good. Mileage is 10,700. No code displayed in engineering mode. Truck seems to be running fine..
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Replaced factory running boards w Amp research electronic running boards.
Now I wanna fill or cover the unsightly holes left by Factory running boards. Trim molding?
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I have a 2013 F250 with 49.575 miles and Saturday the truck left me stranded. I was towing my small trailer and doing about 45 mph.....When just out of nowhere .....I got every possible warning come across my display and none of my instruments were working. That included speedo,tach,boost....even the radio and ac were effected in some way. So after a few miles I was able to pull over ....cut the truck off and it wouldn't start.... So I had Ford roadside service tow it to my home dealership.
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2013 6.7L F-250
The owner's manual recommends idling for a period of time after towing to allow the turbo to cool somewhat. After towing a 10K lb travel trailer in the mountains, what temperature should i shoot for as sufficiently cooled? When towing the oil to averages about 210-215-F. Normal operating temp is about 190F.
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My truck shudders bad between 50 and 60 mph. I have about 7,000 miles on my 2013 F350 diesel. 4x4, single rear wheel automatic. My truck has had this issue since I drove it off the lot. I replaced the tires and wheels with after market 20 inch wheels and toyo mud terrain tires, added a leveling kit and installed a K&N intake at 2000 miles. When driving between 50 and 60 mph with a steady pedal my truck begins to shudder. You can hear the noise coming from the intake, which is not the problem. The boost is registering almost no boost what so ever. The problem mainly occurs in 6th gear with no load or a light load. The entire trucks shakes.
Since I put more miles on my truck each day the problem seems to be getting worse. Not to mention my mpg has drop since I first got the truck from 18-20 to an astonishing 14-15. I took it to the dealer the other day to let them figure it out. They put stock wheels,tires,intake back on the truck for testing. They determined that the shuddering happens between 1400-1700 rpms. They told me they couldn't find anything wrong with the truck and said it was my wheels. They mentioned that with the stock stuff on it was less noticeable. They also said that with stock wheels and tires it went away. Which I know is crap cause I had stock on the truck for 2,000 miles if not more. Now this is a given for anyone who puts mud terrain or all terrain tires on their truck, MPG will suffer some and there will be noise and vibration. However, this is more than a vibration from tires. I have only owned trucks all my life with bigger tires and wheels on them.
I walked out of the dealership having to pay them money because they said it was due to my wheels. My wheels are 0.4 inches off from stock and my tires are the exact same height as stock just wider. Knowing a decent amount of mechanics and how to put my pants on each morning, I was not satisfied with their conclusion. I mentioned if it was my wheels and tires why wouldn't it do it all the time. It's not like I replace my wheels when I'm driving down the road. I believe that they couldn't figure it out so they said it was my wheels and tires to charge me for the time. Just yesterday I was driving on a long trip and it was shuddering, then the cleaning exhaust filter notification came on and the shuddering stopped. I noticed this and tried to make it shudder, couldn't do it. This reinforced my theory that the dealership is less than knowledgeable.
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