I have a 2013 6.7 and i cant seem to get my 4wd to work in auto position on hubs i think i have it narrowed down to the solonoid for it but cant seem to find location on it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 Super Duty w/ turbo Diesel. Took to dealership for "hopping" feeling when turning sharp. Was told that 4 wheel drive solenoid was bad. Where this solenoid is located? I know I can fix but want to know where it is located.
View 6 RepliesHaven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
Checked all fuses in fuse box, any other fuses or relays. The pump works when I jump it with a 12volt battery, so I know its good!
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
View 9 Replies2013 6.7..46k miles.
I know we have crappy radiators. that's why I bought the premiumcare plan. had that replaced at 45k..200 miles later smelling coolant. take it in they say the water pump is leaking from a "weap hole"...great...get it back..still smell coolant. very fricken frustrated. Not what I expect from a 45,000 dollar truck. especially a 2013....
This pump hangs down fairly low and appears easy for ice and rocks to hit on my 2013. Something hit mine and took a chunk out of the drain tube. No leaks yet but I am looking to get a new one and keep this as a spare, or just JB weld it. Can I just buy the lower section, or do I need to get entire pump?
Any creative protection bracket made? Would just have to take it off to change filter though. Any leak in this housing is a major show stopper when in the middle of nowhere! Maybe why it is getting brought into the tank on new models?
So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
I first saw them on the 2013 build and price and was thinking that I should look into adding them to my 12. I never got around to looking up part numbers. So, recently I thought of it again and after a little poking found that they could be had as a Ford accessory kit for around $110 depending on your dealer. MSRP is 133 I think. So, I hit the dealer and grabbed a set they had in stock. Install took 30 minutes. Very easy. They give the wheel wells a finished look and offer lots more protection than the small plastic strips on the rear that came with the truck. A hundred or so bucks well spent if you don't have them. There are aftermarket ones that are a touch cheaper on eBay by Rugged Liner but they don't work with the 5th wheel prep which I have.
View 14 Replies2013 F250 with 36K miles. Just in the past 2 months I've noticed my steering wheel is disintegrating at about the 12:30 position. No possibility of diesel/chemical transfer to the surface.
View 12 RepliesMy vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
View 7 RepliesI think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
View 10 RepliesMy 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
View 4 RepliesI just reinstalled the engine and got her running. I installed a new 6.4 starter (reman) and she spins perfect. I was experiencing this same issue prior to startup and thought it was weak batteries. The key will just click the solenoid and it turn the engine over.
Quick synopsis of what I've checked:
All grounds
All cables tight
Batteries are fully charged
Power at right fender pigtail leading to solenoid when key is engaged (tomorrow I'll ck voltage at work today)
Checked starter connections
Checked continuity on the 10g wire from the fender to the starter...all good even wiggled it hoping it might have broken internally...
To me it sounds like a bad connection but I did not mess with the harness (firewall) aside from bungeeing out of the way vertically. I can hook up a charger and she will crank with the key. I can disconnect the fender 10g and crank it from the battery with no issues.
I've quadruple checked for loose connections. Didn't have this issue before so not sure what happened. Relay sticking maybe?
Where the vacuum (brake) pump is located in the engine bay?
View 8 RepliesI have an 2011 6.7 that has a h&s tuner. Lately my transmission seems to be confused about what gear it should be in when I'm driving about 45mph. It will sometime downshift hard. I have a early build 2011 and heard that it could be a solenoid problem with the transmission.
View 3 RepliesTransmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
View 4 Replies04 excursion 6.0 auto. New batteries a month ago. New alternator (New Bosch) 6 months ago. Charging system shows 12-13 volts on scan gauge with engine off, 14 with engine running. Drops to 10 or 11 while actually engaging starter.
Every once in a while, often when the engine is hot (in fact I can't ever remember this happening when it's cold) the solenoid clicks like it would when the battery is dead. So far, it does this while it's actually engaging the starter, so I hear the solenoid clicking under the hood while I hear the whir of the starter under the floor board.
Never had this happen before. Not sure what part is trying to tell me it's on its way out? Heat soaked starters are harder to start, or less powerful, or something, right?
Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
View 14 RepliesI found out by accident that my vacuum pump is now running all the time. It's not the gray line to the heater valve and it's not the vacuum canister as I already checked the easy stuff. I need some direction where to start looking under the dash as I have never been under that part of my truck. Any common issues or where to look?
More information: The pump only runs all the time when the HVAC control is set to OFF or MAX AC.