Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 F350 - Shuddering At 50 - 60mph
Oct 7, 2013
My truck shudders bad between 50 and 60 mph. I have about 7,000 miles on my 2013 F350 diesel. 4x4, single rear wheel automatic. My truck has had this issue since I drove it off the lot. I replaced the tires and wheels with after market 20 inch wheels and toyo mud terrain tires, added a leveling kit and installed a K&N intake at 2000 miles. When driving between 50 and 60 mph with a steady pedal my truck begins to shudder. You can hear the noise coming from the intake, which is not the problem. The boost is registering almost no boost what so ever. The problem mainly occurs in 6th gear with no load or a light load. The entire trucks shakes.
Since I put more miles on my truck each day the problem seems to be getting worse. Not to mention my mpg has drop since I first got the truck from 18-20 to an astonishing 14-15. I took it to the dealer the other day to let them figure it out. They put stock wheels,tires,intake back on the truck for testing. They determined that the shuddering happens between 1400-1700 rpms. They told me they couldn't find anything wrong with the truck and said it was my wheels. They mentioned that with the stock stuff on it was less noticeable. They also said that with stock wheels and tires it went away. Which I know is crap cause I had stock on the truck for 2,000 miles if not more. Now this is a given for anyone who puts mud terrain or all terrain tires on their truck, MPG will suffer some and there will be noise and vibration. However, this is more than a vibration from tires. I have only owned trucks all my life with bigger tires and wheels on them.
I walked out of the dealership having to pay them money because they said it was due to my wheels. My wheels are 0.4 inches off from stock and my tires are the exact same height as stock just wider. Knowing a decent amount of mechanics and how to put my pants on each morning, I was not satisfied with their conclusion. I mentioned if it was my wheels and tires why wouldn't it do it all the time. It's not like I replace my wheels when I'm driving down the road. I believe that they couldn't figure it out so they said it was my wheels and tires to charge me for the time. Just yesterday I was driving on a long trip and it was shuddering, then the cleaning exhaust filter notification came on and the shuddering stopped. I noticed this and tried to make it shudder, couldn't do it. This reinforced my theory that the dealership is less than knowledgeable.
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My truck is fairly new. Its a 2015 Ford F350 with 6000 Miles. I live on the east coast in a 4 seasons climate. Its summer the average temp. is in the lower 90's. Recently, I have noticed that my truck has been shuddering and shaking between 5th & 6th gear.
It started when I was changing lanes; I tried to accelerate going about 45mph, and shuddering real hard. It was difficult to maintain my speed on a level surface. It was almost a total loss of power with no trouble codes.
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I have a 2011 f350 srw 6.7 with 3.55 I found a 2013 f350 drw. I tow a 5th wheel 2 times a year , and the other time use for work about 45 k per year . I am getting 18.0 mpg on highway now, if I trade this and get the 2013 drw what could I get mpg as a daily driver....
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My new to me (2K miles now) 2013 F350 with 52k miles just developed a knock. Oil changed 600 miles ago, Oil level good. No codes or CELs ...
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2013 Ford F-350, CC. Lariat.
This may be very simple, but this morning I received "Change Oil Soon" warning. I had the oil changed at about 20,500. Current odometer is about 22,530. I am thinking that when the oil was changed the garage did not reset the oil life in the message center.
There may be something else going on that I may need to look at. Have not had a chance to get into the Owners manual as this happened 30 minutes ago on the way to work.
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Every morning I walk out into my driveway and I see several pink drips under the front of my truck. I assume this is the antifreeze, its not tranny fluid.
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I have 2013 f350 crew lariat 4x4 6.7 5000 miles . Cel coming on about 300 miles apart , 4th time now same code p054f ,dealer ship has no answers. Thayer say ford is investigating it ?? I don't about that but it is a real pain bringing it in.
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Adding this tank? When full if the mileage range display will show the true mileage to empty which should be 1000 +/- miles to empty? I know with the factory tank it was very accurate on my 2011 tk...
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I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
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Just bought my 2013 Platinum 350 DRW 2 weeks ago. 9,000 miles on it. I was cruising along yesterday at around 45 mph in 6th gear going up a slight incline. Truck was fairly low rpm don't remember what exactly. As I'm going up this hill it begins to shudder quite a bit almost seemed like the turbo shuddering while lugging up the hill at a low rpm in 6th. I stepped into the throttle to get it to downshift into 5th and it stopped. I never experienced anything remotely like this in my 2011 6.7.
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02 7.3L SD Im on a long haul and think I might have bought some bad diesel. It is shuddering a little kind of like a miss. It started right after I stopped for fuel. Is this going to damage my engine to keep plugging along? Is it just going to run kind of rough until I burn up the bad fuel? Ive got about 200mi to go so just needed to know if its safe to keep driving or am I going to be stranded.
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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2016 F350 6.7; ccsrw, 22K on truck (zero issues previously). Stock other than titan fuel tank that was installed at 100 miles.
700 miles into todays trip, pulling trailer, snowing, in 4x4, tow/haul; pulled out to pass, got into it for a bit and got "reduced engine power" error, truck slowed, would not show boost on gauge, wouldn't rev over ~1900. CEL is on.
Pulled over, stopped, checked under/over and didn't find anything. Shut off truck, started back up, CEL is still on, but truck runs OK. Ran for another 20 miles or so and was OK for how I drove it (including boost showing on gauge). Not hot rodding, crappy road conditions (snow). Got on a big hill from dead start and got into it a bit, about 3K same error came on and she went back into limp mode. Same deal, stopped, shut off, back on, was able to keep going. Was only couple miles from motel at that point, so she is on break right now.
Of course I'm 400 miles from home and nowhere near a dealer. I have a code scanner, but nothing with me to pair it with (daughter has tablet with her, ha ha).
Should I keep going or find a dealer/tow/other? If she will keep running "normally" below 3K, then I can make it home as I don't need to horse it that bad on the roads I'll be on.
Truck has had fuel filters replaced on schedule, dealer has done all service work (oil, etc). Fuel filters were done 7500 miles ago.
This trip, was on third tank of fuel. Had just put in 30 gallons at last (big) truck stop about 15 miles before this issue happened, have 50 miles on this tank. That was 30 gallons into 50 gallon tank.
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The truck (2012 f350 6.7 lb cc 131,600 miles) started fine. Then while i was setting up the defrost i accidentally hit the ac button. Well I then hit it again to turn off. At that point the engine stalled. Which has never happened to me before. I started it back up which took a bit longer to get it to fire. It now says "Reduced engine power" and runs kinda rough. I thought well im at the end of my fuel filters life so why not change it since i had one. Well the. The FF housing broke. After replacement FF housing and filter it will no longer start. I took the filter back off and checked to see if it was cross threaded or sucking air. I checked that twice. Still no start cranks fast and strong. Codes are
P2138 something to do with the gas pedal
P0193 fuel rail sensor A high
P06A6 voltage on circuit A is whacky (paraphrasing here)
P0532 ac pressure sensor low
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
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