Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 F350 - Adding BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake?
Oct 15, 2016
I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
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Looking to put dual exhaust on my 2010 F150. Which muffler. Flowmax or Magnaflow. Do not want it very load. Looking a little smooth churn like the Mustang. As you know ford is very distinctive and I want it to be heard to some degree.
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I first saw them on the 2013 build and price and was thinking that I should look into adding them to my 12. I never got around to looking up part numbers. So, recently I thought of it again and after a little poking found that they could be had as a Ford accessory kit for around $110 depending on your dealer. MSRP is 133 I think. So, I hit the dealer and grabbed a set they had in stock. Install took 30 minutes. Very easy. They give the wheel wells a finished look and offer lots more protection than the small plastic strips on the rear that came with the truck. A hundred or so bucks well spent if you don't have them. There are aftermarket ones that are a touch cheaper on eBay by Rugged Liner but they don't work with the 5th wheel prep which I have.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry LE and I wanted to add a dual exhaust system like the camry se has, where could i find it? or could it fit the 2010-11 Camry dual exhaust system to my camry? and if it does, where could i find that?
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Last winter I pulled something and getting out has been difficult. Climbing in my F 350 even tougher so it hasn't been used much. Now that I'm driving a bit I have not seen it regen. Truck stop regenning, is it possible? What happens if it just stops? It use to regen every 200 miles or so and I have been paying attention.
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This past Monday I was finally able to pick up a 2012 F350 dually and over the weekend I was able to do an EGR and DPF delete and I come to find out while under the truck that it has an oil leak I looked under the hood and it seems that there is oil around the turbo and after the test drive there is a LightStream of oil coming down the exhaust.
Another question is that I have read about the possible problem is that early build 2011's have that's why I chose to look for a 2012 so I didn't even consider looking at the build date when getting it and I come to find out it was November 2011 and this truck has a plastic oil pan should I be worried about The possibility of this engine taking a dump on me and if so what can I do to prevent it?
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2007 F-350 6.0L, Wife phoned and said that the truck backfired a couple of times and there was black smoke from exhaust. When she stopped at idle there is now alot of white smoke but coolant level looks fine. She has about 200 km's to go before she is home pulling a 20 foot horse trailer with 1 horse.
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I have 07 F350 6.0 never heard this out of any of my 6.0s. it's almost a whine but can hear it w turbo and out of empty exhaust. Almost like a supercharger noise stumped almost leaning towards actuator for turbo? Noise got real loud swapped turbos used same actuator noise is there but much quieter.
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Attempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
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My 2012 F350 Lariat has 6100 miles on it now and on the way home tonight I got a "speed limited to 50 mph in 50 miles" message on the display. It states that there is a "diesel exhaust fluid system fault". The def was topped off about 2000 miles ago and the message center says that the fluid level is "ok". I am going to be on the phone with the dealer first thing in the morning. This is my personal/work truck and if I can't tow a trailer then I can't work. My guess would be a faulty sensor. I have no doubts that the dealer will get this resolved quickly as they have been great about everything else. I also want to say that other than this, I am sure minor issue, this truck is awesome!
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I have a 2013 F250 6.7 w/ 96000. I ran over a log and tore the rear section of the exhaust. I was told to buy the OEM version or do the DPF/EGR Delete.
I don't have a lot of $$$$, so which way do I go. Whats the least expensive Delete.
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I have a 2011 f350 srw 6.7 with 3.55 I found a 2013 f350 drw. I tow a 5th wheel 2 times a year , and the other time use for work about 45 k per year . I am getting 18.0 mpg on highway now, if I trade this and get the 2013 drw what could I get mpg as a daily driver....
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My new to me (2K miles now) 2013 F350 with 52k miles just developed a knock. Oil changed 600 miles ago, Oil level good. No codes or CELs ...
YouTube...
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My truck shudders bad between 50 and 60 mph. I have about 7,000 miles on my 2013 F350 diesel. 4x4, single rear wheel automatic. My truck has had this issue since I drove it off the lot. I replaced the tires and wheels with after market 20 inch wheels and toyo mud terrain tires, added a leveling kit and installed a K&N intake at 2000 miles. When driving between 50 and 60 mph with a steady pedal my truck begins to shudder. You can hear the noise coming from the intake, which is not the problem. The boost is registering almost no boost what so ever. The problem mainly occurs in 6th gear with no load or a light load. The entire trucks shakes.
Since I put more miles on my truck each day the problem seems to be getting worse. Not to mention my mpg has drop since I first got the truck from 18-20 to an astonishing 14-15. I took it to the dealer the other day to let them figure it out. They put stock wheels,tires,intake back on the truck for testing. They determined that the shuddering happens between 1400-1700 rpms. They told me they couldn't find anything wrong with the truck and said it was my wheels. They mentioned that with the stock stuff on it was less noticeable. They also said that with stock wheels and tires it went away. Which I know is crap cause I had stock on the truck for 2,000 miles if not more. Now this is a given for anyone who puts mud terrain or all terrain tires on their truck, MPG will suffer some and there will be noise and vibration. However, this is more than a vibration from tires. I have only owned trucks all my life with bigger tires and wheels on them.
I walked out of the dealership having to pay them money because they said it was due to my wheels. My wheels are 0.4 inches off from stock and my tires are the exact same height as stock just wider. Knowing a decent amount of mechanics and how to put my pants on each morning, I was not satisfied with their conclusion. I mentioned if it was my wheels and tires why wouldn't it do it all the time. It's not like I replace my wheels when I'm driving down the road. I believe that they couldn't figure it out so they said it was my wheels and tires to charge me for the time. Just yesterday I was driving on a long trip and it was shuddering, then the cleaning exhaust filter notification came on and the shuddering stopped. I noticed this and tried to make it shudder, couldn't do it. This reinforced my theory that the dealership is less than knowledgeable.
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2013 Ford F-350, CC. Lariat.
This may be very simple, but this morning I received "Change Oil Soon" warning. I had the oil changed at about 20,500. Current odometer is about 22,530. I am thinking that when the oil was changed the garage did not reset the oil life in the message center.
There may be something else going on that I may need to look at. Have not had a chance to get into the Owners manual as this happened 30 minutes ago on the way to work.
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Any downside to using (enabling) the Exhaust Brake (aka 'Jake' Brake) all the time?
I ask since there is a switch to turn this on and off, and I wonder why. My experience driving fire trucks in a previous life was that the Jake Brake was always enabled (I do not recall there being any way to turn it off).
I suppose that on icy roads, it is probably a good idea to not have it on, but that is all I could come up with. Am I missing something?
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Every morning I walk out into my driveway and I see several pink drips under the front of my truck. I assume this is the antifreeze, its not tranny fluid.
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I have 2013 f350 crew lariat 4x4 6.7 5000 miles . Cel coming on about 300 miles apart , 4th time now same code p054f ,dealer ship has no answers. Thayer say ford is investigating it ?? I don't about that but it is a real pain bringing it in.
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
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If I'm giving a jump:
Assume I hook positive and negative cables to the respective terminals of one of the two batteries. The alternative would be hooking positive cable to one battery and negative cable to the other battery, or does that make 24 volts? I'm also assuming if it is just the one battery, it does not matter which one you jump from?
If I'm receiving a jump:
I assume positive cable to positive post of one battery and negative cable to a good ground under the hood somewhere? Again, does it matter which battery I use? I wonder where a good ground is on this crowded diesel engine and aluminum body. Front radiator supports?
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