Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 F250 - Mirror Swapping - Replace Switch?
Feb 16, 2014
I Probably don't have the right forum but I have searched without luck throughout the site looking to see if any one has swapped out their regular towing mirrors for a set of powerscope ones with power fold and telescopic functions. I also need to know if the wiring is going to already be in there for them , I know that the switch will also have to be replaced ,but is there any thing else? truck is 2013 f250 and this forum seems to have the most responses for that year and model.
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My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3 auto 4x4 SD ... has done 616000kms and is getting a bit rattily and injectors are getting tired . Have found a 2001 7.3 engine that has 130000 miles on clock . Will the 2001 engine fit into my truck .... e.g.. bell housing and crank bolt spacing's, mounts for all the bolt on bits ... is it quicker to take engine and box out or just engine ?? have even read on here that body removal is necessary .have a forklift and workshop available
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Finally after 423k plus miles on 7.3, bought 13 250 with 6.7, love it but... I noticed some shaking @ 45 mph, below or above no problem and only when cold. I was thinking it could be tires, they are Conti 18" original with 65 psi and I do not pull anything.
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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2013 6.7L F-250
The owner's manual recommends idling for a period of time after towing to allow the turbo to cool somewhat. After towing a 10K lb travel trailer in the mountains, what temperature should i shoot for as sufficiently cooled? When towing the oil to averages about 210-215-F. Normal operating temp is about 190F.
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My first opportunity to really use four wheel drive and I am having a whine and a very slight vibration from the drivers side wheel. The noise is only noticeable under throttle/load. When I let off, there is no noise. The truck is also quite in two wheel drive.... No whine.
The truck has been to the dealer for a front end clunk that is coming from the drivers side. The dealer, as usual couldn't replicate it, and didn't do anything. I notice the clunk more on the rebound. I also notice it when using more of the suspension travel i.e. going over a apron into a shopping center, or the crown of a cross street when traveling at a good speed. Short choppy pothole bumps don't replicate the noise as easily.
If I had to guess... The two issues are related. Narrowing it down will be the key. Transfer case? Failing hub? If I don't spoon feed the dealer, I will never get it fixed.
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I have 1 bad injector well it's missing when it's cold and two others that are "weak" I'm wondering what kind of job it would be to do by myself?
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2013 F250 with 36K miles. Just in the past 2 months I've noticed my steering wheel is disintegrating at about the 12:30 position. No possibility of diesel/chemical transfer to the surface.
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I have a problem with my F250. The engine is turning, rail pressure 400kpa, but it does not jump at. Injectors are tested at bosch. High and Low Fuel Pressure Pump are new.Sensors and pressure regulator also. Compression is also ok on all cylinders.
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2013 f250 6.7 yesterday during drive through heavy rain fall noticed some clean water draining on my bare feet on passenger side of the truck right below glove compartment.
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What the expected life cycle is for the fold in/out feature of the power mirrors? I garage my truck and need to fold mirrors when backing in and then unfold once out of the garage--looking at 2 in/out cycles per trip from the house. How long until the motor gasps and dies?
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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2007 F250SD, R/H power mirror with LED lights no work. All other lights and L/H mirror work fine. Checked the fuse in passenger compartment, it's good. Where to start looking?
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My truck has done this since I got it and it's pretty damn annoying. While at idle the rear view mirror vibrates slightly and drives me nuts. If you give it any gas at all it stops. Like I said its super slight but it's enough to notice for sure and makes stuff look blurry if your looking through it.
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I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
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I bought a 2004 E350 van that has been driven 9000 miles in the past 6 years. Replacing a thermostat in an E350 6.0 Powerstroke van?
My van is running on the cold side ECT 176-180 when idling. It will reach 190 when I am driving. The EOT is 6-10 degrees higher.
I am flushing the system with Restore and plan to replace the T-stat soon when it arrives from Amazon. I have 3 gallons Cat ECT-1 full strength coolant and a lot of distilled and reverse osmosis water for the flush.
Is it a long procedure? There is not much room in a van to work with ease. If it's too involved, I will find some over time at work and pay my mechanic to do the install.
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Wanted to replace my front headlights on the '06 with the PIAA Extreme White bulbs.
Before I ordered them I looked to see how easy the bulbs were to access...
Looks like its a bear to access. Is there a video??
As a side note I already have the Brite Box installed, which I really like
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Couldn't make it 10,000 miles........without a failure.
My driver's side mirror finally broke. It will no longer power fold. It's been slowly dying over the last few weeks, getting slower and slower. Now it won't move on it's own and the electric motor hardly makes any noise/effort trying to move the mirror.
I would assume that should be replaced under warranty but who knows... We'll see what service says about it tomorrow.
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Got 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?
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Hearing a whistle noise after installing the Recon smoked turn signal lense? The whistle starts between 40 and 50 mph and is the driver side only. I have triple checked the installation and it has the same clearance all the way around as the left side. I sent Recon an email on Jan 5th about this issue and still haven't heard back from them.
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