Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Adding Rear Wheel Well Liners?
Dec 28, 2013
I first saw them on the 2013 build and price and was thinking that I should look into adding them to my 12. I never got around to looking up part numbers. So, recently I thought of it again and after a little poking found that they could be had as a Ford accessory kit for around $110 depending on your dealer. MSRP is 133 I think. So, I hit the dealer and grabbed a set they had in stock. Install took 30 minutes. Very easy. They give the wheel wells a finished look and offer lots more protection than the small plastic strips on the rear that came with the truck. A hundred or so bucks well spent if you don't have them. There are aftermarket ones that are a touch cheaper on eBay by Rugged Liner but they don't work with the 5th wheel prep which I have.
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I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
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2013 F250 with 36K miles. Just in the past 2 months I've noticed my steering wheel is disintegrating at about the 12:30 position. No possibility of diesel/chemical transfer to the surface.
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I have a 2013 6.7 and i cant seem to get my 4wd to work in auto position on hubs i think i have it narrowed down to the solonoid for it but cant seem to find location on it.
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I have a 2013 F250 6.7 w/ 96000. I ran over a log and tore the rear section of the exhaust. I was told to buy the OEM version or do the DPF/EGR Delete.
I don't have a lot of $$$$, so which way do I go. Whats the least expensive Delete.
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2013 F350 Lariat with the factory OEM rear view camera. I am replacing the tailgate with a 5th wheel tailgate for a few months and would like to still retain the convince of a rear view camera.
I have obtained a Ford camera harness to use as a jumper for a non OEM camera which comes with the standard basic RCA wiring which I plan to mount to the bottom of the 5th wheel tailgate.
My hope is to wire the camera direct to the Ford wire harness which is a 6 wire pigtail. Which wires on the camera mate to which wire on the trucks wire harness.
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Have a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
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Was thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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Is it possible to add the decent control if my truck didn't come with it? Is the harness already wired for it and the computer programmed for it or would I have to get it reprogrammed and get a new harness?
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We just picked up a 2007 f350 dully with 71,000 miles on it. Have done some research but still would love some input. We would like to do the egr delete and add a monitor/programmer to monitor things. We will be using this as a daily driver and to haul our dj equipment trailer (nothing big) have looked at several programmers and also talked with several local diesel owners currently leaning toward the Edge Cts2.
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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I came across a post where someone said it was possible to add a gauge/setting to the blank "gauge display" screen. I've searched and searched but can't find the post. Ho to add to the gauge display blank screen.
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Is there a MPG gain with synthetic oil or adding a tonneau cover?
I'm planning on doing the tonneau but curious if any noticeable differences with either.
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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I'm currently adding some hideaway strobes into my 02 POV and was wondering if any good place to enter wires from the rear of the vehicle? I'm not wanting to drill any holes and worst case I'll go through the firewall with my other runs and run down my door jam. All my connections are behind my rear seat.
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I just recently dropped my car on BC racing coilovers 16k fronk and 14k rear. I am having slight rubbing issues in the Front only. For everyone that's dropped on coils, if you were rubbing what did you do? I currently have my dampening set on 16/32. The rubbing is actually only on my front fender liners. I love the comfort with 16/32 and don't want to turn it up stiffer and I don't want to raise it up too much. I was told to raise it, turn up stiffness or heat up fender liner and push it up or in a bit. Also for the rear since its 2 piece suspension, to raise or lower the rear 1/2 inch would you adjust the height on the BC struts or the BC springs (the one that's sitting in the bucket)? A shop installed mine and I've only owned 1pc rear suspension for my other cars.
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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I got a ghost light kit for my 2013 Sonata GLS. Installing the front door lights was simple. Since the rear doors don't have courtesy light it's a bit of a challenge for me. s there another wire I can tap into somewhere that would allow this light to work?
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Finally after 423k plus miles on 7.3, bought 13 250 with 6.7, love it but... I noticed some shaking @ 45 mph, below or above no problem and only when cold. I was thinking it could be tires, they are Conti 18" original with 65 psi and I do not pull anything.
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Alright so I'm a little frustrated at my truck for the last month. I have a 2013 f350 with 2 codes comming up. P0100-mass or volume air flow circuit and a U0106-lost communication with glow plug control module. I have an H&S tuner with the delete. I changed the MAS and it's still lighting up. The dealer is looking into it cause they didn't foresee any problems with the glow plugs either. I erase the code, shut the truck off and once I start it it's right back on! Frustrating!
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