Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 Runs Better At 3/4 Throttle Than WOT
Feb 17, 2014
I have a 2012 6.7 4x4,CC,SB, truck seems to run fine, I've only had the truck for a few months. The other day I laid into it and pulled hard, as I passed 3/4 throttle the truck backed off and didn't pull as hard. I backed off from full throttle back to 3/4 and it picked back up again.
Seems odd, I pulled a 1600 gallon water tank up a hill today and experienced the same thing again. I really don't understand why it would do this. I searched this and found one forum where several people experienced the same thing but no solution, all on stock trucks. I have a Spartan tuner an delete, I run the 80hp tune. Also when I got the truck I changed the oil, fuel filters, and air filter.
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So I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
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Just joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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I had a no-start, replaced standpipes and dummy plugs. Passenger side dummy plug o-ring was shot, some of the others were pretty worn. Polished the spool valves and replaced injector seals. Confidently put it back together and fired it up. Idled sweet, bad low on power, especially at low rpm. FMP was bumping 45 so sent it to ED. It seemed a little better but not fixed. No visible smoke. Engine temp doesn't seem to make a big difference but it may be slightly better warm. Fuel consumption is hovering around 9mpg over the last 150mi. FPW stays around 800us warm/5.8ms cold. I think the low mpg is the excessive throttle needed to pull away from stops and climb hills.
I spent the day checking stuff and found the following.
The only codes are for a couple of glow plugs and a "key in ignition" error. No contribution codes. Monitored (with FORScan) the turbo (MAP, Baro, EBP, VGT), FICM, TPS, ICP/IPR(cold and warm) EGR, vRef, MAF vs TPS, and some other stuff like miss fire count (0), voltages everywhere I could look, and FPW. I saved a dozen files while checking this stuff and can be more specific on the numbers. Fresh fuel filters, No bubble in upper filter housing while cranking. Fuel pressure was 64 at idle, 61 when power braking or revving. No leaks on CAC or exhaust.
Possible culprits : Could I have done something to cause low power when I cleaned up the injectors? I'm sure the orientation of the spools and coils were right but I did "fudge" on the torque for the coil screws. If anything they may be a bit loose as I read a couple of times over tightening would cause problems. I am certain there is no play and a slight amount of load on them. I did clean the tips and bodies on a bench grinder with a gold colored wire wheel, light pressure and just a quick pass cleaned them up. Also, I ohmed the coils while they were on the bench. No shorts or opens except where there was supposed to be opens. All the coils were .5ohm except three read .6 and two read .8. Injector buzz sounds raggedy, not smooth. Any of that a issue?
Cold ICP/IPR is higher than it used to be, at 40 degrees I see 35% and 1300psi but ICP desired is 1250psi. I also noticed monitoring the TPS, rpm desired stays at 0. All three tracks measure position but one shows a constant .25v while the other two vary. Throttle position fault stays at "no" at all times. When it was a warm no-start (at the beginning of all this) I cranked it for maybe a minute total. ICP never went above 300psi so I knew why it wasn't starting. It was cranking normally in the beginning but part way through the second try RPM's went up suddenly as if it got easier to turn. When I started the truck the next day it limped home in this "low power" mode and even though it starts righ up now and idles smooth cold, the power issue remains. I plan to get a better set-up and recheck fuel pressure at WOT tomorrow.
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My truck started fine my truck was running good. One morning while working from a hotel I went to start it in the morning and it started and stalled more than a few times but eventually ran fine later it did the same thing. The next morning it would not crank at all. I deduced it was the ficm and ordered a replacement the dash was acting funny and tach dropped before it died. I ran the. Test on the dash it swooped the gauges acted fine. I checked and wiggled sensors wires. I also checked were a splice at the crank sensor was it looked good then I bought a meter and the ficm seemed to have the correct volts it was a upgrade. Had 57volts at 1 screw koeo and while cranking.
PCM and replacing the crank and cam sensors. I don't really think it is the harness it will now crank and shut off crank and shut off like it did at first. He said it's stalling because it looses ficm sink. I haven't put new ficm on it ...the harness was allot better than the first. Could the crank sensor splice be wrong it is done its soldered together and heat shrink ... is it the ficm or the dash. I'm out of my comfort level I was also reading it only needs ficm sink to start. Not run. In addition #2 injector is throwing a code. I asked him if he thought the fuel was getting pressurized and his reply was the fuel has nothing to do with ficm sink. Also, I swapped relay out with my other 6.0. And its running fine This is everything I got ....
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So what is this wire that runs down by the engine? When doing my a/c evaporator I noticed it is melted by the exhaust and nearly seperated.
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'03 6.0 Powerstroke. Rough idle AFTER it warms up. Runs fine cold. It seems to studder and miss at mid range acceleration. Egr deleted and new oil cooler installed. New lift pump. Replaced ICP sensor. Have 48.5 volts at the FICM. Replaced the fuel pressure spring to the blue one. All new filters. Does not smoke. Does not throw codes. I need to fix this truck one last time. It has a date with the bottem of a very deep lake! It has been nothing but a pos since it hit the ripe old age of 25k miles!
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Another thread on here about Time for Batteries got me to thinking about mine and whether I should change them based upon time.
They have been in the truck 4 years and 6 months or so. I was reading some older threads recommending changing around the 3 year mark to prevent damage to the FICM.
I don't drive the truck everyday and sometimes it sits for 3 weeks or so. I noticed 2 days ago when I took it to work, I got one of the slowest cranks I've ever gotten. But after it's started and the glow plugs turn off, I get ~ 14.1 - 13.4 or so volts.
FICM voltage never drops below 47 and usually runs between 47.5 and 48.5 volts.
I'm not sure what size alternator is on there. Plus it's a single. I also have the upgraded cables that Mr. Jack recommended for extra battery life. I guess it's time for batteries though?
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I have a 2003 f350 6.0 and did head studs with the egr delete and Warren diesel Injectors 155cc. I have both warrens tunning and loney wild tunes.
In all the tunes when i first start the truck up after sitting for a while it will rev real high. Like when i was a kid and tried to impress someone and catch the motor as soon as it fired up and rev it real quick. I mean it sounds cool but i don't want it to do it for obvious reasons. It also gets out of control when you are driving it down the road until its warmed up. If you just try and drive it normal it will start to take off once it gets around 1500 rpms unless you really feather the peddle. Its almost as if its getting to much fuel but it does it with both tunes.
In the tow mode the truck tows like crap. I can literally have the peddle to the floor and it struggles to move a 10k car trailer. I really just wanted a more fuel efficient truck that had a little pep. Now i wished i had left it stock with the new studs.
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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Yesterday it was running fine today only half throttle, going up a hill no power throttle push 12 down let off the throttle engine smooths out and starts picking up speed ....
EGR stuck????
CAC boots look good do not hear any leaks on the tubes
no smoke
ICP 675 at idle full temp, cold 1200
OEM filters with OEM caps
ficm 48.5 to 47.5
Can hear the turbo spool up
Oil temp less than 10 dec difference with water temp
No code showing up
141,000 2003 F-350 dually
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2006 F450 6.0 that I've owned since new. It has had 2 injectors replaced previously, EGR cooler with BPD, and a few other problem parts. As it is getting older, I have recently noticed it runs like absolute dog crap when it is cold. It can't even reasonably accelerate onto the hwy when cold. Once it is up to operating temp, it runs better. It still does not pull like it did when it was new and under 50k miles...but it is at least driveable once warm. I need to do some heavy trailer towing soon and need to get this thing back to accelerating good. What should I be looking at first for the horrible running condition when cold?
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I've got a cold start problem. Turn it on, wait until glow plug light goes off, hit the starter and it fires right up. It acts like it runs out of fuel and dies. Hit the starter and it fires up and dies again. Third time it stays running. It's not a long crank either. 1-2 seconds at most. Fuel pressure is 59, HPOP immediately goes 1000+, everything looks good. It will start fine the rest of the day until it sits overnight. This is an early 04.
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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but 2nd time 6.0 psd owner. 2 weeks ago we picked up an '03 Excursion and were thrilled because it's been running like a dream and getting great mileage. However, according to my wife just yesterday, and after me driving it today, we have a big problem.
The engine starts, momentarily runs smooth, but then quickly becomes very rough. When trying to drive, it will make decent power, but it has an "off" feel to it, like it doesn't quite make as much power as it did, and it has a slight vibration to it.
Then when you coast to come to a stop, or pull in our driveway, it runs REALLY rough and badly, and usually stalls. I have begun the troubleshooting process. Here's what I know: Ficm tests good - 7 pin w/key on only gives ~46V (only tested w/voltmeter) Had an oil change done today and added a bottle of Hot Shot, will add the fuel treatment when we put more diesel in Believe ICP sensor to be OK. I unplugged it and no change Appears all injectors are firing since it ran down the highway decently, AND you can hear all injectors 'triggering' in a uniform manner with key on Turbo probably isn't sticking because made great power before, and decent power even with the problem NO Check engine lights / codes thrown
Details about the truck:Early '03 w/ 189,000 miles EGR delete done in a previous life w/ IPD kit Turbocharger replaced, in a previous life Headgaskets done, in a previous life (no ARPs though )
Questions & next steps:Even if there was no change w/ ICP unplugged, does that truly rule the ICP out completely? Could the IPR be the culprit?
Others? I have ordered a Scangage 2 and it will be here Tuesday. What's the first thing I should check? To me, this very much seems like an electrical problem; my gut tells me it's some kind of sensor or electrical signal error. What's the best way to investigate this path?
The engine turns over very well, and sounds very uniform so I don't think compression is the issue. Head gaskets have been done, although not with ARP studs. Batteries are very fresh and turn it over very fast. I have already learned a ton reading through these forums and just need some additional direction & brainstorming!
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I did some searching and cant seem to find this in a 6.0 (massive results in IDI)
If I rev my truck over about 3200 rpm and release the throttle, as it comes back down to idles it will stall.
Ficm voltage is fine and I am running a stock tune, ICP doesn't seem to drop until the stall...
What should I be looking for?
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So, after sitting for about 4 weeks, I go to start my 2011 F350, 16,000 miles, with a 6.7. Barely runs, "misses", fuel pouring from the underside of the motor, all over the ground. I figure out pretty quickly, #8 fuel injector was blown out of its hole. Clamp is busted.
Two days later (this morning), dealer calls and says we have all the parts we need to fix your truck, except the clamp. Guy says no ETA on the clamp from Ford. Truck will just sit, for an indefinite period of time. Asked him what they were going to do. He said, wait for the part to show up.
Putting aside the oddity of the clamp breaking, how is it that Ford doesn't have the part and doesn't know when it will? Is this a Ford problem or a lazy dealer? This really won't do. Its racing season and I need my truck!
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle.
I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.
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