Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 F450 - Rough Ride - Bounces?
Jun 20, 2015
I have a 2012 ford f 450 which has the standard Rancho shocks,the problem is the ride is very rough and the truck bounces when the road gets a little bit undulating. How did you fix it.
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I have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
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Ever since I picked up my truck (350 6.7, c/c, srw, lb) I get a "bounce" in the back of the truck right at 40 mph and it stops right at 45 mph. My first thought was that I have a bad tire. I have 18" Continental A/S tires on it. The bounce gets progressively worse if I stay between 40-45 mph but clears right up if I slow down or speed up out of that speed range.
This week I took the truck in because of the change oil light came on with only ~1200 miles since oil change. I finally remembered to tell the service department about the bounce. They had my truck for 3 full days and all they have managed to do is confirm my complaint, not fix it. They road pressure balanced the tires 3 times and they still had the bounce. They called the Ford hotline and were told to take the tires off of a brand new lot truck and see how they were. The bounce is still there with the brand new tires.
The bounce is unaffected by rate of acceleration or gear the tranny is in... it just happens at 40-45 mph no matter if I drive like my granny or a jack rabbit. I have heard comments like "its the nature of the beast" but I don't think so.
I took my truck back for the weekend but the tech is waiting on another reply from the hotline as to what to do next. Since the new tires didn't work my next guess is the drive shaft or rear end since it is definitely speed related. I just realized that I don't think I notice it when I am hauling my 5'er but I am not 100% sure about that.
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I have a 2013 f350 4 door longbed single rear wheel. The rear end bounces violently at 45 and 65 mph. Just today I had the truck had new shocks put on, was aligned balanced and tires rotated but it still bounces...
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
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The cross members on my bed are toast. The whole bed bounces as I drive down the road. I know the cross members can be put in. I'm also considering a whole new bed. I keep hearing about these companies that pull the beds off new trucks to install custom aftermarket bodies, then sell the bed.
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My friend has an F450 with the 6.0, and discovered fuel in his coolant. I have the 7.3 in my truck, and know next to nothing about the 6.0. Can bad Injector sleeves cause this ? Is that the same as "seats" ? I am not up on my terminology. He thinks he needs new heads for his truck, but I don't agree.
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I have an F450 with a 6.0 turbo diesel with 267000 miles std trans. 4wd and just bought it a few weeks ago. When the engine is cold, the truck runs fine but after driving for 15 minutes, I loose power in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. The gauge for the turbo drops from 20 down to 5 and the truck starts blowing black smoke. This starts at 1500 rpms and stops when I am past 2200 rpms.
Before 1600 rpms and after 2200 rpms, the truck has lots of power but withing those ranges, the truck has almost no power at all. When I first got the truck, the problem didn't start until I was up to 1800 rpms. No codes showing up either. I had the truck serviced by a diesel mechanic and the filters replaced using Ford parts. Problem persists and only exists when the engine is warm.
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2004 f450 with 6.0. Was driving down the road when it started losing power like it was starving for fuel. It carried on for about a mile then died and will not start. No codes at all and we put a new fuel pump on but still wont start. Put a rag with gas in the air box and will run but rough.
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I am on the market for a 2015 Ford F350 with an 11' Royal utility body on the back for my electrical contracting business.
Ford have come back to me and said I need a F450 as I am going with the supercab, the F350 can not handle the 11' utility body.
I have head that the F450 can cost more in Insurance and use more diesel. I contacted my insurance company and they said it wouldn't change to much, this is in CA.
Is there any differences between the F350 and F450 apart from the rear axle and larger brakes. Also if there a major difference in MPG.
I currently have a Ford F150 Limited and love it!
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In the beginning of January I bought a 2004 F-450 6.0 with 186k miles (not sure if its been clocked back).
Since I bought the truck I have had only 2 issues that are odd. One is a hot no start that is very sporadic (its happened 5 or 6 times). I know it needs 500 psi min to crank and when that happens it gets to around 350psi. Because Im afraid of issues I did a oil change the day after I bought it did a road trip of 2500 miles (with no issues) and did a oil change again. All with motorcraft filters, lucas oil stabilizer and I use a little of diesel kleen or lucas injector cleaner every time I fuel up. I was told never go below half a tank so I follow that rule.
The second is a small oil leak from the passenger side. BUT it only happens when the truck sits for 3 or 4 days unused. During my road trip, not one drop. I used it on the weekend not one drop, but since its my 3rd vehicle I park it Sat or Sunday and by Wednesday Ill see the size of silver dollar, I cant seem to find it.
Also it has a egr delete but the heads have not been done, and I want to put a tuner. Would that be ok? I dont drive hard. As a example on my road trip I NEVER went past 70mph(with my wife saying I drive slow) and I averaged around 15mpg. I would like to get more mpg.
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I have a 2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel with a 12 foot flatbed on it that I use for my power washing business. The air conditioner sometimes won't work when I first drive it in the morning. After I make a few stops and turn the engine on/off a few times it will all of the sudden start working again.
This happens about 2 or 3 times a month and I don't have time to have it sit at Ford so they can duplicate the problem. It's going in for it's 60,000 mile service in the morning anyways so I'll still have the dealer look at it. What might be causing this?
2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12 Foot Flatbed
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I have a 2011 f-450 6.7 - truck has 70K miles. The other day I was driving and the message said "Cleaning exhaust filter ". I usually keep it running a little to finish. Then shorty after a warning message came on which said "800 Miles to Exhaust fluid empty". So I went to fill tank and it was FULL. Now the warning keeps showing up each time I start the engine. It now says 300 miles to empty. I'm afraid it's going to go into limp mode even though the exhaust fluid tank is full.
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2006 F450 6.0 that I've owned since new. It has had 2 injectors replaced previously, EGR cooler with BPD, and a few other problem parts. As it is getting older, I have recently noticed it runs like absolute dog crap when it is cold. It can't even reasonably accelerate onto the hwy when cold. Once it is up to operating temp, it runs better. It still does not pull like it did when it was new and under 50k miles...but it is at least driveable once warm. I need to do some heavy trailer towing soon and need to get this thing back to accelerating good. What should I be looking at first for the horrible running condition when cold?
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2016 F450 tuned...how to improve fuel economy. DO fuel rails or injectors work...
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I have a 2011 f450 that I just bought and it has the plastic oil pan. I see that the newer 6.7 have the metal lower oil pan. Is there a good reason to change over to the metal pan? Is the 1/4 turn drain plug the problem?
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6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
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I own a 2003 Ford F-450 Superduty Chassis w/Utility Body. Owned it for the last 2-1/2 years . So far, the only things needing replacement were an Alternator, FICM, and routine oil and transmission fluid as well as filters.
This past week the truck started lurching while in traffic. I brought it back to the shop and put the scanner on it, and found codes for #1,#3,#5 injectors imbalance and no circuit to the fan motor. Did some research and found low oil and/or dirty oil could affect the injectors, I changed the oil and all filters also removed the EGR and cleaned it too.
I started the truck ran it, stopped, and restarted and let it run for a few. I cleared the codes and did another test. The only code that came up was the Cooling fan P0528 again. I let the truck run. All of a sudden the truck revved up and I could hear the turbo kick in and the engine seemed to take a life of it's own. I did another round with the scanned and found codes for Cruise Control popping up P0565 through p0569 and the p0528 again along with a p1000.
My truck is not equipped with cruise control, but apparently that is what might be making the engine surge. What do I do? What this might be???
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Finished my install last night for my airbags. The passenger side looks good as far as alignment top to bottom, but the drivers side is tilted pretty good. I lined up the alignment pin in the upper mount as the instructions indicated into the most forward hole and there is no way to move the lower mount because it is up against the leaf pack tight where it belongs and the tabs on the lower mount does not allow for it to be turned on the axle housing. I believe it is out of alignment enough to cause excessive wear and or improper performance (the rubber part of the airbag is actually touching the lower metal disc that is part of the airbag when there is no air in it).
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My friend has a 2006 F-450 and he said the Tow/Haul light blinks and the shifts are real slow. He has stopped towing now and it still drives.
I have read everything from toasted tranny to chaffed wire harness across tranny crossmember to the TFT sensor. My guess is the TFT sensor given his symptoms. If I am right the sensor is just to the rear of where the dipstick comes thru the tranny case. 1/4 turn and pull it out. Kinda like a bulb I guess.
Another question, is it necessary to replace the harness while in there as well? Is the Connection listed below the harness I am asking about? I found these parts on a thread from here:
Sensor (1): 3C3Z-7H141-AA;
Connection (1) 4C3Z-7G276-AA;
Gasket (1): 3C3Z-7C155-DA;
Fluid (10): XT-6-QSP
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I have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
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