Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 F350 - Trans Would Not Shift Into 6th Gear
Sep 28, 2012
My Father In-law has a 2012 f-350 Dually with 4K miles. He tows a 9K lb camper and until our last trip the truck ram flawlessly. On our return from Myrtle Beach to central NC we were on a freeway traveling at 63 MPH and his tranny would not shift into 6th gear. Tow haul was on. There was some headwind (10MPH) but no large grades or any reason we can think of not to allow an up shift. His display did show a countdown to empty of the exhaust fluid 450 miles to empty.
He took the truck in for service and no codes were found. Dealer did not find any TSB's addressing the tranny issues. Is the sixth gear up shift in tow haul set very conservative? Does it hold 5th unless the load is below a certain value? Other trips we have been on have been mountain towing so 6th gear shift would have been on down hill or level sections. Dealer wants us to bring it to them when it won't up shift next time but dealer is not along a freeway.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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Took my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue. I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath. Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive. I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
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I have a 2006 F350 4x4 dually (6.0 diesel obviously) automatic. It's got 200kml on it and a second motor (found the sticker on the valve cover). I just bought it a month ago and have only driven it like 100-150 miles. Previous owner imported it to Finland 3 years ago, but never registered and only drove it like 500-1000 miles (with temporary plates to carry his racer few times). Original owner was a company in Southern Midwest that had some equipment on back. (It's was sold as a chassis cab new.)
Now I was getting the truck tested for registration yesterday. Drove it there 30 miles (country roads and highways), no problems. Then we had to do the smog-test, which is a bitch. They rev the engine to limiter (4200rpm) couple of times and measure the particles flying out. Passed it flying colors, but when trying to pull out the transmission wont engage!
Shifter linkage ok. Oil in tranny clear and plenty. When I put on R or D the engine RMP rises very slightly (maybe 50-100 rpm) and then settles back. But nothing else happens.
Luckily got a friend with large flatbed that we used to carry my baby home. But now I don't know where to start... ...well, I do have couple of ideas what could be broken. Specially if there's something simpler than dropping the whole tranny out (it's HEAVY and it's cold&wet out there) and rebuilding the whole damn thing.
Previous owner told he had some shifting issues couple of years ago (maybe 500 miles ago) and they "rebuilt" the tranny. He DID replace the hydraulic "logic board" and solenoids + new packs while at it. Naturally new filter & oil too. He said the torque converter was "tested" to be in good condition and they used the old one. I can tell the tranny has been out of the truck and the seller felt legit (a car guy too).
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My tranny is slipping all over the place . I recently less than 1500 miles ago changed tranny fulid, tree branch and TP filter, ford filters, and 8 to 9 quarts of mercon SP. My truck is shifting like a bucking bronco. Came up with PO671. So should I replace just the 1 solenoid. Or all the valve body? I plan to run a gauge in cab to see shift pressures for testing purposes to aid in troubleshooting for current issue... reason for fluid change is history unkown.
2004 6.0 f250 4x4 tourque shift OdO is 163,800...
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I have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
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Bought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
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Ok so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
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Having transmission problems? Everything I've read before says these transmissions are better than gm Allison's and they can handle up to 600 horse before you gotta worry about beefing them up but mines starting to act funny.
How important is the transmission tune? My truck it's tuned with the spe hot tune and trans tune. Didn't like the way it clunk bang hard shifts though so I ran factory trans tune for a while but it felt very soft like it was slipping when I got after it on the performance setting of spe hot so I went back to spe trans file.
I get a little twang sound that sounds like it's coming from the trans between 3-4 gear shifts, initially only heard it after getting on it hard in performance but it's getting worse and happens on stock power level under light acceleration now sometimes. Also I lost all gears briefly and it wouldn't shift into manual at all when I stopped to turn around the other day.
Working fine in drive but when I shifted out to reverse it had nothing in any gear and manual wouldn't light up on the display. I shut it off and restarted the engine and it came back and worked fine after that but not sure what happened there, don't think it's good though. Did using the stock transmission file with the hot engine tune or the hard clunk bang custom trans file up my trans, freak malfunction?
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I have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
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Is there a way to reset the CEL on a 2012 F350? I've tried unhooking the battery, but that didn't work. I know exactly what it is, one morning I was running late for work. And forgot to unplug my heater core plug. I know, I know, Just forgot about it when I was in a hurry. I just don't wanna pay the Ford house to reset it.
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The truck (2012 f350 6.7 lb cc 131,600 miles) started fine. Then while i was setting up the defrost i accidentally hit the ac button. Well I then hit it again to turn off. At that point the engine stalled. Which has never happened to me before. I started it back up which took a bit longer to get it to fire. It now says "Reduced engine power" and runs kinda rough. I thought well im at the end of my fuel filters life so why not change it since i had one. Well the. The FF housing broke. After replacement FF housing and filter it will no longer start. I took the filter back off and checked to see if it was cross threaded or sucking air. I checked that twice. Still no start cranks fast and strong. Codes are
P2138 something to do with the gas pedal
P0193 fuel rail sensor A high
P06A6 voltage on circuit A is whacky (paraphrasing here)
P0532 ac pressure sensor low
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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2015 F250 with 6r140 Transmission. I have 13 K miles on my truck. While pulling my Travel trailer up a hill the transmission kicks down thru the gears, which is fine, but as I crest the hill and in 2nd gear, the engine begins to rev up and the speed increases, the transmission will not automatically go into 3rd gear. I have tried to let up on the gas pedal, but it remains stuck in 2nd gear. I have to shift to manual and then put it in 3rd gear. Then it shifts up as it should. I have tried with the transmission in "TOW' and not in "TOW". I have even tried it in "Cruise Control". Ford dealership ran tests but could find no problem. However it was road tested without the trailer.
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I have a 2005 f350 king ranch,I have a kinda weird problem.the truck starts up and runs great as long as I let it get to normal temp.but if the motor is cold it will idle fine but if I goto put it in gear it just dies.sounds like tc is locking but I don't get any codes.
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I own a 08 F350 which has 4:10 gears. After this last trip to AZ pulling 5th wheel and only getting 7 - 8.5 mpg driving 65 most of the trip, I'm seriously considering a new F350. Switch from 2008 to 2012 with about the same truck? I'm thinking of going back to 3:73 which I know works a bit. But if someone did switch what was your mileage difference. I have been also tossing idea of replacing my 4:10 with 3:73 to improve mileage. My 08 only has 24k on the clock.
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I have a 2012 f350 srw that I'm trying to rectify an intermittent p1249 dtc. What I found initially was a broken vacuum line from the egr solenoid valve to the activator. This made the truck run good and the dtc code cleared. It came back two weeks later, the truck did not go into the reduced power mode. I pulled the MAP sensor to test it and it was completely plugged with soot.
I replaced the MAP sensor and removed the upper intake, cleaned out the soot, which was considerable, vacuumed out the lower manifold cleared the code. It went without a cel for about 1000 miles and came back. My questions are: where to go next and if the soot is normal for a 116K engine would I be better served by deleting the egr/dpf/def?
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This past Monday I was finally able to pick up a 2012 F350 dually and over the weekend I was able to do an EGR and DPF delete and I come to find out while under the truck that it has an oil leak I looked under the hood and it seems that there is oil around the turbo and after the test drive there is a LightStream of oil coming down the exhaust.
Another question is that I have read about the possible problem is that early build 2011's have that's why I chose to look for a 2012 so I didn't even consider looking at the build date when getting it and I come to find out it was November 2011 and this truck has a plastic oil pan should I be worried about The possibility of this engine taking a dump on me and if so what can I do to prevent it?
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Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
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I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
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