Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 F250 - Stuck In Park With No Brake Lights Or Traction Control
Jan 21, 2015
My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
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This morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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I have a 2012 ford 150 what fuse controlls the trailer lights.
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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I've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
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How to completely turn it off, I got nothing so far. I cant do it with my H&S, I have access to ford IDS which is also unable to turn it off. The only thing I have found to work is unplugging a wheel speed sensor, which sets off dash lights... Im thinking of finding a body control module without advancetrac.
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My right rear tire picked up a screw this evening heading back toward Seattle from Chelan. I put the spare on and continued on my way. I noticed for the first few miles the traction control warning light was on. It went off and stayed off until I stopped for fuel and again it came on for a few miles. I'm suspecting this is due to a slight diameter difference between the 20" wheels with the Michelins and the 18" spare. I really hope this didn't stress the differential (3.55 ELD). As I understand it, unless locked the ELD is open all the time..... I would assume Ford wouldn't equip the truck with an incompatibly sized spare......
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Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
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Borrowed a buddys trailer that had wiring issues. I ended up blowing a mini fues & maxi fuse in my truck. 06 F350 CC ... Replaced both fuses in the truck and had park lights on the truck but now dont get any lights on any trailers. All factory plugs 7pin & 4 pin. I get turn signals and brake lights on the trailers but that is all. If the fuses are good were should I start looking for problems? or is there more fuses I may be missing. I have metered all the fuses under the dash aswell as under hood all check out. Where to go next ???
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Wrestled with them for a while today to no avail. Can't get the big spring under the lever thingy. I hate drum brakes. I don't have the special tool to pull axles on my sterling.
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So a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
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I have a 2004 F250 I just had a Ford transmission out in it. when the truck is cold it runs great. buy when it gets warm it gets stuck in a gear, even if I drop it into a lower gear. Also, if I cut it off when this happens and i cut it off it will not turn over as if it's not in gear, in park or neutral, but if I let it sit for about 20 minutes it will turn over and run as it should until it warms up again.
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
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First off my vents stopped blowing completely. At this time the thermostat was still functioning. Fuse 28 was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again shortly after turning the heater on. I replaced the relay and resistor and still blowing fuses. For some reason I tried a 30A fuse and it didn't blow but a few minutes after turning on the heater there was a burning smell. I immediately turned it off and pulled the fuse back out, which was hot. I then replaced the blower motor and at this point there is no power at all to the control panel. The fuses are all fine as well as the relay and resistor. There's power to the fuses. So it seems like somewhere between the fuse box and the control panel I'm losing power.
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I have a 2012 f250 been in the shop 4 times for the traction control light just coming on randomly and staying on. they have flashed it changed something in the steering column forgot name of that and changed some sensors out. still does it. I think its a bad connection or bare wire is what I keep saying to them cause it only does it on rough roads and when its wet.
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