Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 F250 - Engine Feels Like Missing At Low RPMs / Power Loss
Jul 16, 2013
I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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I've got an issue with my truck, I was towing home my camper this weekend and my engine started missing out and vibrating very bad, then it overheated... pulled over and check codes, p0263, p0299, p0300, p0301. Oil all over engine, tons of blow by, definitely a dead miss on cylinder 1. Smokes bad out of exhaust, zero power, and blows cap off of oil filler when loose, tons of smoke and oil from ccv.
My question is, could it be in the valve train? Or is it going to lie in the piston/rings? Blown head gasket? It did overheat, but didn't puke out of bottle, turbo timer kept it running for a bit after I shut it down roadside, egts were definitely high. Also the egr is deleted, have a predator programmer with custom tune for she delete.
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I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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I'm a new Ford owner and my 2012 F250 is my first diesel. Recently, my truck has been having a problem with the engine loosing power, bogging down, shaking-pinging, every once in a while, like 1-2 times a week. When it happens, I can barely get the truck to do 50 MPH. It sometimes happens when the "cleaning exhaust filter" message is displayed, but also happens when it's not displayed. I recently read on the internet about HPFD failures.
What may be happening to my truck? Could it need Cetane booster? Also, how about scheduled maintenance. The owners manual (diesel supplement) says to do the maintenance once the message center says to change oil soon. The dealers here in AZ are pretty much saying 5 months or 7,500 miles. On my other trucks (which were gas), I would stick to what the owner manuals said because I thought how could they deny a warranty claim if you're sticking to what the manual says.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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My 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
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I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
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To start off. I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 in it which just had a top end rebuild done on it due to the head gasket blowing on it. During the rebuild the EGR cooler was also deleted, ARP head studs, Heads were milled down to make them flat (shop said they had to take 9 thousands off to do so), new up pipes installed, new back pressure sensor installed due to the plug head snapping off, new glow plugs, new glow plug rail harness, oil rail rebuilt due to bad o-rings on the ball tubes, injectors were installed with all new seals and had polished the spool valves hoping to avoid stiction (however its spelled can never remember), and lastly the EGR was deleted electronically with tuner. Also had to get 2 new batteries as they were stone dead and would not take a charge. And had to get a new alternator due to low output. Not sure if the alternator killed the batteries or the batteries killed the alternator either way it needed replaced to.. Unfortunately after i got that fixed i had to get a new starter as it died 3 days later.
Ever since its gone back together Ive had a consistent intermittent miss with the truck. Ive searched every article i can find but seems most complain about misses when cold. Mine is the exact opposite as it only does it once the engines up to normal operating temp. It accelerates hard and fast like it has no issues. While its cold it doesnt miss at all. Once its warmed up sometimes while cruising it will feel like its missing on every cylinder or better description would be as if your driving on a cobble stone road.. If you mash the pedal for a couple seconds till it kicks down and raises the rpms it stops.. Its most prevalent at idle though.. You can literally hear the difference in the engine when it starts missing. Truck will shake as if its got a large lopey cam. Odd part while sitting at idle it will cycle back and forth between running smooth and missing. But same with at cruise as soon as you get on the throttle it goes away. If its doing it while sitting idle at a light, it will take a couple seconds once your on the throttle for it to smooths out. But always does.
Ive tested the Ficm hot and cold, KOEoff and KOEOn.. getting a steady 48v from the main board.. Scan gauge says the Logic boards reading steady 13v... Also from the scan gauge it says my ICP pressure is in the 640 range at idle (full throttle highest ive seen is 3600psi so dont think its a pressure leak) and volts bounce between .80-.90.. but oddly once it starts missing the ICP pressure jumps up 20 psi.. IPR at idle reads 23.5-25.5.. at cruise its up around 45ish.. fuel pressures said to 70 psi.. which its usually around that most times, cruising itll be around 66psi. I had 3 injectors replaced not this past spring but the year before (ironically same symptoms).. Injectors 5,7,8 were replaced then.. ICP sensor was also replaced at the same time as it split and shorted out the connector which was the initial reason i took it in that time since it was dumping the oil on the ground.
I dont have any way to perform a cylinder contribution test and after spending 6K on a rebuild I really cant afford to take it in to have someone else do it. A local guy was able to scan the truck for me but he couldn't do the contribution test either but was able to buzz test them. Everything passed there but we also found some hidden fault codes my code readers did not find. The ones we found hidden said that injectors 2, 4, and 7(again??) are reading low contribution. Of what I've read 2 & 4 sit on either side of 7 in the firing order so have wondered if they're not pulling down 7's results.
I really cant afford to replace the injectors till near the end of next month. Is there anything else I can look at that might actually possibly be causing false readings or intermittent misses only when warm.
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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The truck (2012 f350 6.7 lb cc 131,600 miles) started fine. Then while i was setting up the defrost i accidentally hit the ac button. Well I then hit it again to turn off. At that point the engine stalled. Which has never happened to me before. I started it back up which took a bit longer to get it to fire. It now says "Reduced engine power" and runs kinda rough. I thought well im at the end of my fuel filters life so why not change it since i had one. Well the. The FF housing broke. After replacement FF housing and filter it will no longer start. I took the filter back off and checked to see if it was cross threaded or sucking air. I checked that twice. Still no start cranks fast and strong. Codes are
P2138 something to do with the gas pedal
P0193 fuel rail sensor A high
P06A6 voltage on circuit A is whacky (paraphrasing here)
P0532 ac pressure sensor low
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