My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
View 5 RepliesMy 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
View 14 RepliesI have an issue with my 2011 SD. When i press on the brake pedal I get a message saying I have a trailer connected and then when I step on the brake pedal again it says trailer disconnected. This happens every time I touch the brake pedal. I have replaced the trailer connector 7 way plug thinking that was the issue to no avail.
View 3 RepliesYour breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
View 13 RepliesI'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
I replaced the speed sensor in the differential yesterday, but it didn't make a lick of difference. I've been having intermittent problems with the speedo ever since I bought the truck. When the speedo starts acting up, the truck will sometimes momentarily cut out and buck a couple of times. It was first mentioned this post, post # 35. I had the truck in the shop for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fittings, and when I got it back it ran worse than before as detailed here in post #1. It turned out I had a torn IPR screen.
I replaced that and it cleared up all of the problems I had except for the speedo problem I originally had. The truck actually ran perfectly on the way home from work yesterday, about 20 miles. No speedo problems and no cutting out. This is not unusual, as the problem is only intermittent. I put the new VSS in last night but did not drive it until this morning. This morning, same thing again, speedo swinging crazily. When cruising about 70 it the speedo would suddenly jump up to about 90 and that is when the truck would cut out and buck a couple of time. The VSS is a Dorman product and proudly displays "MADE IN CHINA".
Should I try a better quality sensor? Rock Auto sells an Airtex/Wells sensor that seems to be of good quality, but I can't determine where it was manufactured. The only reason I bought the Dorman is because I could get it next day from Amazon. Should I be looking at another source for the problem? This is very discouraging because this one thing is what is keeping the truck from being mechanically sound, and I'm trying to get it ready to tow an RV this summer.
I'm a new Ford owner and my 2012 F250 is my first diesel. Recently, my truck has been having a problem with the engine loosing power, bogging down, shaking-pinging, every once in a while, like 1-2 times a week. When it happens, I can barely get the truck to do 50 MPH. It sometimes happens when the "cleaning exhaust filter" message is displayed, but also happens when it's not displayed. I recently read on the internet about HPFD failures.
What may be happening to my truck? Could it need Cetane booster? Also, how about scheduled maintenance. The owners manual (diesel supplement) says to do the maintenance once the message center says to change oil soon. The dealers here in AZ are pretty much saying 5 months or 7,500 miles. On my other trucks (which were gas), I would stick to what the owner manuals said because I thought how could they deny a warranty claim if you're sticking to what the manual says.
Have a 2012 F250 4x4. Have read many posts about different lifts etc. I don't want to go real big but I would like to go to a larger tire than the stock Michelins.
On a F250, done a 2 inch front leveling kit and switched out the rear blocks to F350 blocks. Assuming I wanted to put new shocks on with this change, what level kit and what adjustable track bar (from what i've read this is pretty much required).
My son has a 2012 F250 King Ranch, 6.7 L.
Little info: Last Friday the inter-cooler hose blew. We changed the hose this past Saturday. The truck ran great all weekend. Last night leaving for work it started to sputter and then died. Got the truck to crank, ran great no sputter, but something under the hood sounded off. We drove it all the way back home. Killed it, re-cranked it, everything was fine.
This morning cranked the truck, ran fine for 5 min then died and would not crank. We decided it needed new fuel filters. Replaced the fuel filters, truck now cranks and idles great. When you mash the gas at it revs up then sputters like it would die, when you let off the accelerator it catches up and idles fine again. It cant be too much wrong, it ran great all weekend.
I have a 2012 F250 4x4 6.7L Diesel with around 114k miles on it. Jut in the past couple weeks it has produced this issue: At start-up/during warm-up it when I make a turn (left or right) and hit at least 40mph the steering feels heavy and pulling to the right, all of a sudden it seems to release and dart a little to the left. It does this for about 10 miles then it is fine. Steering is a little loose, 114k miles and previous owner had a plow on it but once it straightens out it is fine for the rest of the 45 mile treck. Tires are new Goodrich All Terrains, no visible signs of a belt being broke.
View 2 Replies2012 F250 Lariat with 18k on the clock. FOr the past two months I've had a temporary side job on weekends and had to haul some trailers. I noticed my trailer gain operates sporadically and if I try and adjust it she tells me there's no trailer connected. I've edited the settings and reset all the settings also. I find this particularly annoying when towing the 4,000 lb trailer but I'm also hauling single axle trailers and it hasn't registered that I'm towing once.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a set of 2013 20" rims for my 2012 F-250. I can't seem to get the tire fault light to go off. I've gone through the "learn" process but it won't read them. Are the TPMS not the same between years?
View 2 RepliesMy dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
View 14 RepliesOne of the many things that impresses me about the 6.7 is how well it lugs...... it'll run right down to near 1,000 rpm in 6th gear and stay there till it absolutely has to shift. Like a diesel should. Well, recently, and now more frequently my truck is making some strange noises when it lugs down. It'll mainly do it if I'm towing light, like my flat trailer empty, or maybe if I have a decent load in the bed. But occasionally it'll do it empty. As soon as it lugs down low to 1,000-1,200 and pulls there for a few seconds you'll hear a couple squeaks, then a kinda chugchugchugchug noise. It immediately quits if you let off or make it shift down. It sounds like a turbo-related noise, but I don't really know. Truck only has 9k miles on it. I just know this is one of those things I'll take it back to the dealer and they'll give me the ol "we can't duplicate the problem here." What it could be?
View 8 RepliesI bought new pads for my truck and the fronts went on with no problem at all, but when I got to the rear the tabs/ears on the pads are about 1/8 inch wider than the notch they are supposed to fit in. I bought part number BR-1067, which is supposed to fit but obviously doesn't. What part number should I have bought? My truck is a 2007 F250 Super Crew Lariat FX4.
View 9 RepliesThis is a common problem. Mine goes to dealer in the morning for it. I haven't seen any recent posts within the last year on this. Did ford ever find a fix for my problem? When going up hill at low rpms I lose boost and hear the stutter out the intake..
View 14 RepliesI have a new *to me* 2005 F250 and last night I noticed there is a leak around the brake fluid reservoir where it connects to the frame of the truck. Everything seems to be in good order not sure exactly whats causing the leak. It only when driving and for a short while after shutting the truck down, everything seems to be in good order but still it drips a lot.
View 9 RepliesBrake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
View 3 RepliesRecently purchased a 2005 F250 6.0. I noticed that sometimes when I brake it feels strange...like ABS activating in rear or something. Usually at 15-30mph when braking right after accelerating. Its a bit difficult to explain. I'm planning on getting a break inspection soon.
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