Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 - Back End Squatting - Leveling Kit To Use?
Mar 15, 2014
I am finally thinking of leveling out my 2012 f-250. First of, I have the FX4 off road package on it, I guess with heavier duty shocks. When I pull my camper the back end of my truck sags quite a bit, it actually sags a lot with just my polaris sportsman 4 wheeler loaded in it. So I was wondering would a 2.5 inch leveling kit with a 4-5 inch block in the rear work? Would I have to add air bags to solve my sagging problems? Would I be better off just getting a whole suspension lift kit?
I had a 2.5" level kit with a couple inch block in the rear on my f-150 with 35s and I loved the look, not to mention you couldn't beat the price.
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2012 F350 with 52,XXX miles and the P0401 keeps coming back with no degree of consistency, could be an hour later could be a week before it pops back up. just in th epast 4 days i have replaced the air filter (FOMOCO) and still same thing. there is no change in performance, just dont have that warm and fuzzy feeling since im about to head out to Colorado for 10 days with 5000 lbs of toys in tow.
btw, P0401 SAYS INSUFFICIENT PRESSURE FOR EGR
PURE STOCK, NO TUNING
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Previous owner of my truck installed a front leveling kit (2" aluminum shims under the coil spring seats) and was told by a dealer that it definitely lead to the wear and tear on the front end, specifically the track bar and track bar ball joints. They also stated it causing the truck to still pull to the left even when aligned because the geometry was off. My truck has 56k miles on it.
I was informed of this after months of trying to correct the death wobble. After 4 alignments at NTB, I took it to the dealer for diagnoses. I paid them to do the labor of replacing the track bar, but elected to remove the leveling spacers myself. Came out in about 45 mins, but had to purchase the shorter stock seat bolt from the dealer which was only available as a package with the coil spring seat...
Truck now rides better and seems perfectly aligned, before it pulled hard to the left. Wish I would have known about this earlier...
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So I went from a 3 inch to a 2 inch leveling kit. After tightening everything up the sway bar was a hair off. I pulled it out of the garage and got it lined up. Fast foreward the next day and went on a 200 mile trip hauling an empty goosneck and noticed it one time. The day following the the truck has went into this horrible sway through the tires back and forth that makes it undrivable. Looking at tie rod ends the one at the pitman arm is shot. I order the whole front steering kit from xrf and I'm going to replace. I know I also have some play in the box but I have for awhile. So what else would there be to look at? I need to get this fixed. I will update after the steering is put back together.
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It's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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Crawled under the new to me 13 super duty last weekend to see this. Where it's coming from? Over tightened oil filter maybe? The filter in the picture is the new filter fyi. Old filter had a little oil on it. It's all the way across the back of the oil pan.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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I have my truck idling in the driveway while doing a coolant flush and it developed a weird idle. It will idle fine for a while then all of a sudden it will idle up a little for about 3 seconds then go back down. It will do this 3-4 times then go back to a regular idle for a while. I got in and watched my SCT X4 to see if anything changes. My actually RPM didn't change and neither did my fuel pressure or anything but my turbo added about 1.5 pounds of boost when it does it. It happens about every 4-5 minutes.
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When I pulled my HPOP cover the other day, noticed some RTV on each side where you have the small step down from the block and the piece of metal on the backside of the pump housing. The new gasket I installed had he step down and looked like it would fill the gap, but is the RTV necessary?
There was a previous leak on the turbo drain tube that the dealer I bought it from tried to stuff some kind of fiberglass material in there to absorb the oil. I half wonder if the dealer didn't try to "fix" the back of the cover leaking by cramming some RTV in there. I have to pull the cover again in a couple days and wanted to see if I needed to do anything special when installing the cover?
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I've had a minor oil leak since I got my truck back from having the EGR, head studs, head gaskets, oil cooler done. It's gotten quite a bit worse lately to the point that I'm going to have to fix it. I added some UV dye and traced it up to the engine valley. All the leakage seems to be toward the back of the valley. Is there a common component that is prone to leaking in the valley that could be a starting point?
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My Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
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Where the factory BT module is located? The other day while listening to music, I hit a bump and my bluetooth cut out, then came back about 5 minutes later. Almost as if it lost connection to the stereo then reconnected....wondering if something isn't connected securely...
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Nothing mechanical, fuel filter change and coolant check. While its there I am going to have them look at a few things:
1. Back up sensors - they work intermittently with a message that comes up saying "check back up sensors" or something to that affect on the display. The icon on the display that lets you check off or on will not let you put a check mark next to "on" after you push the "OK" button to get out of the check message. There is nothing coating the bumper/sensors (mud or anything).
2. Blinkers - sometimes, out of the blue, my left turn signal comes on and it doesn't like to go off. I have to push the blinker wand down to the second full position then back, or repeat if it comes back on. It is almost always the left blinker. It also happens sometimes when I start the truck.
3. Windshield wipers - sometimes if I go from the remote start to key power in the morning I get the windshield wipers going. So I will turn them on with the dial and back off. This is pretty rare.
4. The Ford emblems are starting to corrode.
5. I might have them look at the cruse control - sometimes I can get the light to come on the dash and go to green when I push the + button, but it doesn't hold the speed. I have to shut the truck off and restart all the electronics for it to start working again.
How to check the back up sensors? My gut tells me with the rest of the issues that unless they can repeat and verify my "complaints" they won't be able to do anything. There probably isn't a code thrown for the blinkers going on at will. Is there anything I might be able to do to fix it? Or do these issues require parts being replaced - which we're back to square 1 with being able to verify what it's doing at the dealer?
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Well hear I am again fix one problem now I got another problem last time it was fuel now it's oil so what I got going on is a oil leak that looks like it's coming from on top the motor on the back I first discovered this nice surprise when I went into the store and came back out and seen two 8 inch round puddles of oil laying on both sides of the motor like I said at the back I thought rear main seal but upon further inspection it's coming from somewhere on top and rolling down both sides of the motor looks like near the turbo what could this be possibly a line or a check valve or seal or o ring on the turbo? Is there a common thing to go bad on these trucks to cause a leak in that area?
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Recently turned 100k and since have had my exhaust RTD's go out. While fixing that they found the back radiator leaking. Since then both batteries died which didn't surprise me at 40 months. Then my windshield washer started leaking, then my DEF heater went out and two days ago my AC quit. I was ready to buy a new 2015 but now not sure. I've contacted Ford customer service and they are getting with the dealer to see what they may cover but haven't heard anything back yet.
Mine is a 2011 with 105,000 on it. This is pretty frustrating. I have been very pleased with this truck up until now it has been very dependable. However when that dependability begins to go south at only 100k it brings to question what exactly are we paying for here? A heavy duty truck that costs upward of 60k should be one you can count on for a lot longer than that. How Ford approaches this with me is definitely going to have a direct bearing on which 2015 diesel truck is in my driveway in the next few months. Again let me say that i have been very pleased with this truck and FOMOCO in general.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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Seen a coolant leak near the back of the block? I did an oil change and noticed coolant on the bell housing.
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On our '04 Ex with 195 on the clock I've discovered a pretty good leak dripping. I crawled under it an coolant appears to be dripping off the back of both exhaust manifolds.
Less than 1000 miles ago we had an oil cooler and egr was pulled and freeze plugs installed by an excellent well respected 6.0 diesel shop. I don't think both gaskets could have blown at the same time creating two leaks. It runs fine, degas bottle still has coolant in it.
I've seen other threads that point to the heater core hose and more commonly the "orange" egr hose. It appears that an egr delete removes the hose - I think... but would that Blue / orange hose be there if the cooler was just capped and electrical unplugged?
The shop is going to look at it Monday but I'm trying to understand it better ahead of time.
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2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
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i bought a 04 f-550 the motor was blown and replaced with a motor from a 06 truck, before me buying it the truck can be driving along at any speed or last night just idling and will shut off let sit for 30 mins to over night it starts up no problem it doesnt have any codes new to the 6.0 world not sure where to start
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