Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 - 3.31 Gearing Is Appropriate For Hauling?
Nov 14, 2012
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2012 S.D. 6.7L 4x4 XLT Supercab Longbox seems all I can find is rigs with 3.31 gearing....I really want the 3.55 gears. Dealer is telling me the combination of the 6.7L with the new Auto Transmission is more than adequate for hauling. I will be hauling an Eagle Camp 950 Truck Camper along with a 10 foot toy hauler trailer....I'm not a freeway runner mainly secondary roads and mountainous terrain. I'm used to 3.73 gears and before than 4.10 gears.
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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The truck (2012 f350 6.7 lb cc 131,600 miles) started fine. Then while i was setting up the defrost i accidentally hit the ac button. Well I then hit it again to turn off. At that point the engine stalled. Which has never happened to me before. I started it back up which took a bit longer to get it to fire. It now says "Reduced engine power" and runs kinda rough. I thought well im at the end of my fuel filters life so why not change it since i had one. Well the. The FF housing broke. After replacement FF housing and filter it will no longer start. I took the filter back off and checked to see if it was cross threaded or sucking air. I checked that twice. Still no start cranks fast and strong. Codes are
P2138 something to do with the gas pedal
P0193 fuel rail sensor A high
P06A6 voltage on circuit A is whacky (paraphrasing here)
P0532 ac pressure sensor low
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Stopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
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I Have A 2013 F250 I Have A H&S On It. I Have It Delete. And The Cel Comes On In The Morning, Ill Get The Code In The Morning. But It Has Something To Do With Coolant Temp Sensor. It Also Does Like A Bucking/Power Surge. Boost Goes From 0-10-15 ,When you Hold Pedal Steady. Do I Need To Update My H&S Or What?
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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I have a 2012 F250 6.7L with about 62,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck new in October 2013. I had my first check engine light last Friday. I scanned it and it was a P20BD (Reductant Heater "B" Control Circuit/Open) is what I found when I searched for it. I had the truck in on Tuesday to the dealer. They are telling me it is the Reductant Pressure Line and the repair will be $690. They didn't have the part so I picked up my truck and have an appointment scheduled for Monday.
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
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I have a 2012 F350 KR with 14,000 miles. Over the last month, I have had 5 or 6 instances where Im driving and barely on the accelerator and the engine or transmission shakes or vibrates violently. Its happened at around 40mph and 70mph. It seems like the engine is not getting the right amount of fuel or maybe its the transmission stumble or shake that I have heard about. It is a fast back and forth of either the engine knocking or gasping or its the transmission. It can be very bad.
I went to the dealer and of course, there were no thrown codes on the pcm. They did the reflash and 20+ miles of driving and said there is nothing wrong. Last night, I was on a country road at about 40 mph and it happened again. If I press the accelerator down harder, I will stop. If I keep the accelerator at the same spot, it seems like it would just knock, or shake violently forever. Do we think this is an engine issue or a transmission issue?
Its not a slow back and forth of the transmission like Ive seen in older cars. IF it is the tranny, its happening really fast..if not, its maybe the engine?
I cannot tell or don't have enough knowledge to know if its an engine prob or transmission. I just know it sounds and feels like the world is ending and the shake, knock and vibration is going to tear the truck up..
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just picked up a 2012 F-250 6.7 XLT. I won't be driving the truck too often, probably no more than 5000 miles a year, and was wondering how long can oil last time wise. I would wait for the change oil indicator to come on, but was wondering if it's takes a year or so or what. Was probably thinking changing it out once a year regardless of low mileage. I have the service plan from my dealer for 3 years which they threw in but it's for 7500 mile intervals so maybe I can work something out with them. Def love the truck and now I hate having to drive my other vehicle as dailys.
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I have a 2012 6.7 4x4,CC,SB, truck seems to run fine, I've only had the truck for a few months. The other day I laid into it and pulled hard, as I passed 3/4 throttle the truck backed off and didn't pull as hard. I backed off from full throttle back to 3/4 and it picked back up again.
Seems odd, I pulled a 1600 gallon water tank up a hill today and experienced the same thing again. I really don't understand why it would do this. I searched this and found one forum where several people experienced the same thing but no solution, all on stock trucks. I have a Spartan tuner an delete, I run the 80hp tune. Also when I got the truck I changed the oil, fuel filters, and air filter.
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Is there a way to reset the CEL on a 2012 F350? I've tried unhooking the battery, but that didn't work. I know exactly what it is, one morning I was running late for work. And forgot to unplug my heater core plug. I know, I know, Just forgot about it when I was in a hurry. I just don't wanna pay the Ford house to reset it.
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My wife's 2011 F-350 on start up, will sweep the gauges from one side to the other. My 2012 doesn't, is that normal?
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2012 F350 Lariat - want to install cab lights. Can't locate correct wire to tap for power. I want to use the same power that powers the parking lights so these come on as they should. Is the best connect on the driver or passenger side, and what color wire is it? I've read yellow with green stripe (and found about 4 of them) and a brown wire I couldn't find.
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Well at 200,008 miles it's time to change my newly leaking EGR pipes. Is there gaskets that goes with these parts? difficult to install? Part numbers? no "installation kit".
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Read that this is a common issue, leaking out crimped seam on lower LH (2012 F250 King Ranch). I have called Ford customer service twice, they said "we do not have any recall or programs to cover the out of warranty repair". I keep adding coolant and thinking eventually Ford will address this problem. They did cover my bad EGT sensor....
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I'm a new Ford owner and my 2012 F250 is my first diesel. Recently, my truck has been having a problem with the engine loosing power, bogging down, shaking-pinging, every once in a while, like 1-2 times a week. When it happens, I can barely get the truck to do 50 MPH. It sometimes happens when the "cleaning exhaust filter" message is displayed, but also happens when it's not displayed. I recently read on the internet about HPFD failures.
What may be happening to my truck? Could it need Cetane booster? Also, how about scheduled maintenance. The owners manual (diesel supplement) says to do the maintenance once the message center says to change oil soon. The dealers here in AZ are pretty much saying 5 months or 7,500 miles. On my other trucks (which were gas), I would stick to what the owner manuals said because I thought how could they deny a warranty claim if you're sticking to what the manual says.
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2012 F350 with 52,XXX miles and the P0401 keeps coming back with no degree of consistency, could be an hour later could be a week before it pops back up. just in th epast 4 days i have replaced the air filter (FOMOCO) and still same thing. there is no change in performance, just dont have that warm and fuzzy feeling since im about to head out to Colorado for 10 days with 5000 lbs of toys in tow.
btw, P0401 SAYS INSUFFICIENT PRESSURE FOR EGR
PURE STOCK, NO TUNING
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Took my first camping with 2012 King Ranch F350 and 37 feet Challenger 12k fifth wheel trailer over the weekend.
I noticed there is lot of transmission slips in first gear. Once it enters 2nd gear, no more slips.
My previous Chev 2008 2500HD diesel didn't slip much with same trailer.
Is this normal for this F350? My rear ratio is 3.55. No slips without hauling.
Maybe I need to ask dealer to check 1st gear towing?
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I own a 08 F350 which has 4:10 gears. After this last trip to AZ pulling 5th wheel and only getting 7 - 8.5 mpg driving 65 most of the trip, I'm seriously considering a new F350. Switch from 2008 to 2012 with about the same truck? I'm thinking of going back to 3:73 which I know works a bit. But if someone did switch what was your mileage difference. I have been also tossing idea of replacing my 4:10 with 3:73 to improve mileage. My 08 only has 24k on the clock.
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I am finally thinking of leveling out my 2012 f-250. First of, I have the FX4 off road package on it, I guess with heavier duty shocks. When I pull my camper the back end of my truck sags quite a bit, it actually sags a lot with just my polaris sportsman 4 wheeler loaded in it. So I was wondering would a 2.5 inch leveling kit with a 4-5 inch block in the rear work? Would I have to add air bags to solve my sagging problems? Would I be better off just getting a whole suspension lift kit?
I had a 2.5" level kit with a couple inch block in the rear on my f-150 with 35s and I loved the look, not to mention you couldn't beat the price.
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