Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Winch Wiring For Rear And Front Usage?
Oct 8, 2012
2011 f350 CCLB... I want to wire a hitch mounted winch for both front and rear usage.
I see several 2 ga wire kits with quick disconnects, but was wondering which battery to go to, and which frame rail side to use. The exhaust side kinda worries me due to heat. Although the drivers side has the fuel tank, and I have skid plates blocking the inside of frame, so it doesn't sound pleasant either!
Also, best method to connect to the battery terminals. It appears the battery clamp screw is smaller than standard and wont accept a large ring winch terminal. Is there a "post doubler" available, or should I consider removing the factory cable clamp and replace with a set screw block of some sort? Hate to have a warranty issue due to a non oem battery clamp?
For the limited use, I have consider just getting one of the wiring kits, and adding high amperage "jumper clamps" and running the wire only when used?
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Got stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
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Any downside to using (enabling) the Exhaust Brake (aka 'Jake' Brake) all the time?
I ask since there is a switch to turn this on and off, and I wonder why. My experience driving fire trucks in a previous life was that the Jake Brake was always enabled (I do not recall there being any way to turn it off).
I suppose that on icy roads, it is probably a good idea to not have it on, but that is all I could come up with. Am I missing something?
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I now have about 39k miles on 2011. Along the way I think I have added six 2.5gal jugs of DEF. About 1k miles ago I got the low DEF notice and added a 2.5gal jug and am already back down to 250 miles of DEF! I don't see any signs of a leak with the engine running or not. Dropped it off at the dealership this eve for an AM service appointment.
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2013 F350 Lariat with the factory OEM rear view camera. I am replacing the tailgate with a 5th wheel tailgate for a few months and would like to still retain the convince of a rear view camera.
I have obtained a Ford camera harness to use as a jumper for a non OEM camera which comes with the standard basic RCA wiring which I plan to mount to the bottom of the 5th wheel tailgate.
My hope is to wire the camera direct to the Ford wire harness which is a 6 wire pigtail. Which wires on the camera mate to which wire on the trucks wire harness.
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2011 Ford F350, 69K miles... Just started, at about 30mph. I am hearing a Chirp from the front, speeds up when I speed up and goes away with brakes or slow below 30.
Friend thinks its the brake warning telling me its time for new. Bugging me. Just started. Never changed brakes.
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I have a 2011 f250 crew cab lariat that actually sits about 3" higher on the passenger side in the rear. I never noticed until I put some 4" pro comp blocks on the rear. I measured before and the rear left was 40" and right was 41-3/4". Now the drivers side rear is 42" and rear passenger side is 45"? I have looked at the blocks to make sure they are seated properly and everything is installed correct so what gives? What could be causing this. I bought the truck with 99k miles and now it's at 130k miles. I do tow a small cargo trailer sometimes but it is only about 3k lbs. Now I am thinking of buying some new leaf springs to see if that corrects the problem.
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Have to do a brake job on the truck? I took mine truck in for a CEL (New EGT 12) and during the Multipoint inspection they saw the brakes were pretty worn (and wanted an upsell im sure). I only have 49k miles and the fronts only have 20% and rears 30% of the pads left. So I get to spend a few hours this weekend doing the deed. Anything special to look out for?
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I have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
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I have had a slight oil leak at the front of the engine for a while, and slight oil leak on the pass rear of the engine, and recently got a decent oil leak in the rear drivers side of the engine. I want to fix all three leaks if I can identify what is wrong.
Leak 1 : Front of the engine. This has been leaking a drop or two of oil every few days for over a year. Slight leak so I didnt worry about it. The leak is dripping from between the crank pulley and the engine. Is it likely the front crank seal is leaking, or maybe something above it?
Leak 2 : Rear of engine pass side. There has been a slight oil leak on this side of the rear engine for about a year too. It leaks about a drop of oil a day. I can see that the oil is all over the starter though.
Leak 3 : This just started and is a decent leak. It is dripping off the exhaust manifold as seen in the picture below and leaks a 6 inch circle of oil on the ground in a week.
Maybe leak 2 and 3 are connected? I tried to get a good look of the engine and without pulling anything off, I couldn't see any oil leaks on the top of the engine. I couldn't see the HPOP cover though because the turbo was in the way.
NOTE: I do park my truck in the driveway every day and our driveway is slanted quite a bit with the nose of the truck much higher than the back.
Here are some pics of the oil leaks:
Under pass side of truck, oil on starter : [URL] ....
Under the Drivers exhaust manifold : [URL] .....
Bottom front of engine, between pulley and engine : [URL] .....
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I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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Where to connect my new Recon cab lights to? I pulled the side piece off of the dash and looked for an empty plug but didn't see any. Is there one in there somewhere? If so what does it look like and what color wires do I use?
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Need to know the Ford part number for cab light wiring harness? I am wanting to install some LED cab lights but I do not currently have any so I will need the wiring harness.
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Hooked up the toyhauler Friday and before we were off of our street I got the "Wiring Fault on Trailer", brakes on trailer worked, got out and verified the lights were working so we proceeded on.
When we got to the destination the manual says that if the fault stays on when disconnected it is an issue on the truck side, it is still on when the trailer is disconnected.
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My trailer wiring is not working, at least from what I can tell. Embarrassingly, I know this because the little brake light I have in my trailer hitch no longer lights up. I've tried different bulbs and a different unit, so it's definitely the wiring. I do not have access to a trailer right now, so unfortunately that's all I have to go on. It's plugged into the 4 pin jack. Is this something I should be going to the dealer for, or more like a blown/loose fuse or something?
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I only get the fault when backing up. Driving forward it's never a problem. The truck is a 2015 F250. We are pulling a 33' travel trailer. Both are new. I was not sure if the fault when backing was something that happens or if it might be indicative of a problem. The manual says it's not an indicator of a problem. Rather, there might be an issue. Again, it works fine when traveling in a forward motion.
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My truck didn't come with factory option aux switches. Can it be added, and is wiring present?
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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Where I can find a wiring diagram of the inside and outside lights on the 6.0s? I'm trying to wire up my running boars lights to my dome lights and tail lights but don't know the colors or locations of the wires. The tail lights wouldn't be as hard to find as the dome lights, what is the location and color of both.
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Just wiring up some light on the front and want to activate the relay off my high beams.. Where the best place to hook into... I'm running it off number 1 upfitter switch. But also want it connected to the high beam switch as well.
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