In my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
View 2 RepliesI was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 6.0L with 76,000 miles on it. And it just started to shift softer then normal under light throttle. The first to second to third shift are softer then normal. And the third to fifth gear shift seems to have a lot of what I would call overlap and some times it feels like it is slipping. Gets better under hard acceleration but not as firm as it used to be. I have always changed the trans fluid and filter every 25,000 miles. Trans temp runs about 150 to 160deg. I checked the fluid today and it's bright red and does not smell bad. And I don't have any coeds. Could it be a solenoid going bad ?
View 9 RepliesTransmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
View 4 Replies Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
For those of you tuned and deleted......intermittent transmission shifting stutter is gone now? Mine sure is. Never once since the mods have I had that annoying stutter when the truck is cold and I'm easy on throttle between 2nd and 3rd gears. What a relief it is to have it shift NORMAL ALL THE TIME!!! Stutter no more after H&S Tune and Delete, for about two months now.
View 9 RepliesWhen taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
View 14 RepliesI'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
Recently picked up a 2004 Ex 6.0L. Drove great for a bit, then it started shift badly, then finally the Tow/Haul light came on. The original codes were P0976 and P0755.
P0755 being shift solenoid B, and the P0976 being SSB Control Circuit low. I replaced Solenoid B and that code went away.
P0976 stayed with no change in how the truck drives. Replaced the internal harness today, and again no change.
At this point I'm at a loss. I'm wondering if it's something between the PCM and the transmission?
The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
Last week my 2011 KR Diesel with 85k on it stopped downshifting correctly. Basically when the transmission is cold (<150 degrees on the digital gauge for transmission fluid) it jerks everytime it shifts down from 4->3->2->1. Especially 3->2 and 2->1. I have never seen anything like this before. It's almost if you are getting reared ended when it shifts.
If I let it warm up it eventually goes away until it cools down again. I did take into the dealer and they said that a) there is definitely something wrong with the torque converter and b) I might actually need a new transmission which is anywhere between 4-7k depending on if its a reman or new.
This truck is barely broken in and I at this point have not towed a single thing with it. I had thought the transmission was covered up to 100k but it looks like it's only covered to 60 or 75k (I forgot which).
I've opened up a case with Ford but they kicked it back to the dealer. The dealer service manager has been really NICE and is definitely on my side that this SHOULD HAVE NEVER HAPPENED at this mileage. They also don't know how to fix it without pulling apart everything which is a lot of labor.
Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
View 2 RepliesJust bought a used 2011 ford f350 with the 6.7 diesel engine. Coming from a 7.3 1999 f350 with 330,000 miles, still going good. Took a 1000 mile trip on the 11 truck with out pulling anything did good. Hooked my enclosed trailer to it did a trip of 900 down and 900 back. Transmission temps were staying around the 250f, almost in yellow on gauge. Highest it went was 255f. Light never came on. Yesterday on trip without trailer was staying at 230f on trans temp. This is the first concern.
Second concern, had antifreeze coming out the cap on the degas bottle. Rolled over the hood and hit the drivers side windshield. Stopped un did the cap, it hissed. Put 2 quarts of antifreeze in drove on, this at 300 miles of trip. Primary water pump went out, half way there, at about 550 miles of trip. On trip back, about 1600 miles of trip, antifreeze was on windshield again. Undid cap, hissed, did not need to add any to it. Drove on no problems since. Have bought a new cap and installed.
Transmission doesn't want to shift right when its cold. First starting out. When it warms up shifts great. That's third problem.
Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
View 14 RepliesCold start the injectors definitely are not "clicking" the way they should be. Bought a scan gauge II and checked the FICM voltage and it never drops below 48V. EOT/ECT never really get past 8/9* ....
Issue is when I first start driving you can feel a definite miss, but as soon as the truck warms up it runs excellent, no issues starting hot. I did put 15w40 in it but upon some research I drained it and put in 5w40 syn and it definitely solved some of the issue but it's still there.
One other note the battery's are a little weak in the truck so tomorrow I will have new ones-putting this in as a side note in case it may cause an issue
I have an '04 6.0 and it doesn something strange. When for example I am going up a decent grade hill and passing, if I have to let off the throttle and then re apply, the turbo won't build boost, it sits at a couple pounds for a few seconds. Then after a few seconds it will build boost quickly again and work generally as normal. If it doesn't respond and I really need to get it to build boost NOW, if I push the accelerator to the floor, the delay shortens and it will often kick down a gear and then build boost. So if I gently accelerate, very slow to recover, if I hammer it, much quicker but regardless, when it's happening it's almost always the same situation, fully warmed up truck, warm/cold/freezing day and it happens when I back off and re apply. Thinking maybe a worn unison ring but not sure..
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 F-150 Lariat 5.0 L, 6 speed auto transmission crew cab truck with 44,000 miles on it. Recently I have experienced problems with the transmission not shifting properly. Three times when I have started out of my driveway, it has shifted into 2nd gear while I am going only 2-3 mph up my driveway which is about a 10-12 degree incline. It stays in 2nd gear even if I stop. When I pull out onto the highway, it shifted normally into the remaining gears. Then, the other night as I was returning home, while traveling up the road, it shifted into 5th gear and stayed there even when it needed to downshift. A wrench i-con appeared on my screen, my odometer showed dash lines instead of mileage and my seatbelt i-con appeared. When I got home, I shut the truck off and restarted it and everything was normal again. I have driven the truck a couple more times with no issues. The transmission shifts normally. Could a sensor be going bad ?
View 2 RepliesI have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
I have a 2005 6.0 f350 lariat... My climate control doesn't switch very well I can get it to go to floor sometimes after 15min of pressing the button. The vacuum pump is good the tank has no cracks. I feel that the system is either plugged up or has a leak. I cleaned the tank after my hub seals went and it sucked a ton of dust and dirt through my wheel bearings in to the tank. Is the vacuum switching part of the digital display? Or is there a separate part?
View 1 RepliesI've mentioned in earlier posts that my speedometer has been swinging around wildly off and on, and that on two occasions this has been coupled with a momentary engine stumble. This morning on the way to work it was doing it again but this time the engine stumble happened several times as well. I plan to check the speed sensor, but I wonder how this is also causing the engine stumble?
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