Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Sudden Power Loss - Cylinder 5 Dropped
Sep 4, 2016
My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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I was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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So bummed. I love Ford but this has put a bad taste in my mouth. Glow Plug dropped and destroyed the engine and injectors. Now i have a bill for 15k for a long block and injectors.
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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Like the title says I dropped about a 2 inch piece of small washer fluid hose in my cylinder while evacuating the oil from it . Will it damage the valves If I ran it? Any way to remove it without removing the head?
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Okay, so i was driving down the road. Turned around and all of sudden I have no power steering... The fluid is good and I actually just replaced this ps pump 2 months ago.. Also when I hit the brakes they kinda feel weird too like there not working fully or something... Should I just start tearing this ps pump off?
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I recently installed a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. All seems good.
@ idle 58-60 psi
@ WOT drops to 50 psi, no less.
Tonight I went to catch up to a car that had no lights on at all to tell them and during WOT fuel pressure gauge showed it dropped to less than 30! I let off immediately and it went right back up. I tried to repeat it with another go @ WOT and it would not go under 50 psi like normal.
Motorcraft fuel filters less than 3000 miles ago .. Blue spring installed over the winter.
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Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
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Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
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I have a 2004 Super Duty with a 6.0 diesel. Recently the windshield washer seems to have lost some of it's spray power. It still sprays, just not very hard. I know it's not frozen, as it started this before it got cold.
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First there was a loud pop as if a hose came off and a power loss - don't seem to see any hose disconnected. Happened to me once and seemed to return to normal and then happened to my son. Have not driven since the last time. Both times pulling a boat.
Second issue has been going on since I got the truck - bought used apprx. a year ago - believe it to be stock. The time from pushing accelerator until actual kick in is very elongated - sometimes worse than others but very long on the worst side. Usually noticed when needing to pass on the highway. Once kicked in truck runs well.
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So, I was on a road trip to Arkansa from Missouri when my truck started loosing power and eventually just died. After I tore through some stuff, I realized the ficm was just floating around off the brackets and even better yet, missing the top cap where you voltage test. And to my great luck, there was a small coolant leak that dripped it's way right into it.. So now I'm looking at replacements and it looks like I'm going to go with the Bulletproof Diesel ficm. But my question is, can I just swap them out and go.? My truck is tuned with an SCT tuner and was tuned up when it died. Should I tune it back to stock before I put a new one in or put the new one in and then put it stock and retune it after that.? Or is it more complicated than that and I should just let my mechanic deal with it.?
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2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
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