Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Overheats While Towing After Driving It About10 Miles With A Light Load
Apr 4, 2016
I had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
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In the last 3 weeks I've replaced the oil cooler. IPR, ICP, fan clutch, intercooler, rebuilt the turbo, new elc coolant, egr valve, thermostat, new batteries, positive battery cable, and alternator and a host of other crap. Now I have a new problem.
When towing it overheats, almost instantly under load. I was towing a 9k trailer up a hill, a total of about a 30 second climb and it overheated (242 degrees). I'm thinking head gaskets at this point as they are stock and have the tty bolts installed.
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty Diesel that I just purchased. Of course there is no warranty and of course I am not that familiar with trucks or cars for that matter. I bought this to tow our 29 ft trailer, which weighs roughly 7000 and should be no problem for the truck. The first 5 times we took it out everything was good and then we took it out and had a short but steep incline and the truck started over heating.
After unhitching the trailer, I drove the truck again and it runs great, no overheating. I even went to the same hill and everything was fine. So, I took the trailer out again and the same thing happened. What this could be? Since I am so unfamiliar with mechanics of things, I really don't want to get ripped off. I have read the troubles with the engine but don't want to spend the 6-8k to rebuild if not necessary.
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I've got about 1100 miles on my new truck now and I will be heading to S.D in a week or so towing my car hauler with FJ40 on top and camping gear. About 10 000 pds.
Would it be wise to dump the factory oil and go with 5w40 Rotella? It has been getting really hot here the last two weeks and its only getting hotter as I drive south.
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Changed alternator yesterday, batteries 2 weeks ago, was having trouble with alternator, now it takes 2 to 3 minutes of running to start charging normal but after driving 3 to 5 miles battery light comes on, hooked up volt meter and shows charge of 14.0 to 14. 4 volts and battery light is on, why ?
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It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
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For the last couple months when not towing I take the front tires to 65 psi and the rears to 50 psi. It gives me the warning light which I click OK to every time I start it. This weekend I put everything back to 80 psi getting ready to tow and I can't get the warning light to go out anymore. I double checked my pressure to make sure everything was OK and it was. I will be taking it in unless someone knows a reset or something else to check out before I do.
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I just got a used F350 with 28k miles I cleaned the battery posts and checked all fluids, changed the fuel filters just in case they were due ( they looked pretty clean), air filter is a WIX had a bunch of bugs in it but still pretty clean... oil monitor says oil OK and filter looks too clean to be that old. It looks like a coolant leak at the turbo was fixed about 1000 miles ago or so and dealer said coolant would have been changed out at that time.
Am I missing anything I should do or check?
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Driving to work yesterday my engine shuttered and then shut off. The Display said low oil pressure and then powered down, all in about 15 seconds. Dealer called me today told me the engine is blown and is in the hands of Ford now. The only thing he told me was sit back and wait, I can not tell you how long it's going to be. but I am going to be screwed as far as work goes.
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So, I recently had my 4th oil change done at the dealer, just under 36k miles. Same dealer that has done /all/ service on my 2011. They used the same parts and materials as always, but this time there is a very noticeable "typewriter" sort of noise at idle. Much louder than the normal chatter, and not consistent - tick.... tick-tick... tick.... tick... tick tick tick... etc. The diesel tech shrugged it off: "Ford says it's nothing to worry about." As it has never happened before, and it sounded a /lot/ like lifter noise resulting from a low-oil condition, I asked him to put in another quart. He did, and the noise went away. Mostly.
Now I've only driven about 75 miles since the oil change, but the last time I drove it, I had the windows down and noticed what sounded like lifter noise again. Not the same pattern at idle. This time, it was under light acceleration and the frequency increased with engine speed. It's going back to the dealer in the morning. Not only for this, they're also on their third attempt in the past 2 weeks at fixing a squeak in the dash. But while it's in, I want this noise to go away.
In spite of all the posts about how this sort of noise it typical with new oil, and goes away in 10-2000 miles, I'm concerned. Nothing has changed other than the fresh oil and filter. In the last 3 oil changes, this condition never existed. Am I being reasonable?
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My 04 F 350 started with a check gauge light while going down hill towing an 18 ft car hauler full of mulch. Did it for 5 seconds, then when we got to our land and I was getting ready to back up it did it again. and this time my oil pressure gauge was at zero. I shut her down. checked the oil. its full. Drive home everything is good. Today I'm getting fuel pressure gauge going nuts. 80 to 100 PSI. at idle no oil pressure and the check gauge light. but the engine is still running. Oil was changed 4K ago. fuel filters same. Where to start looking?
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Okay so 2007 F350 DWR here, I have a driver who hauls loads using the truck and a 25' gooseneck trailer. She's gone through the bullet proofing process at 80K miles, she now has 128K miles. I have a programmer to monitor temps, and do all required maintenance.
With that said, my driver reported last week that when under load and going up hills he got the white spray coming out from under the hood. See pics below, this is never really good of course but I want to believe its not catastrophic. Two weeks prior I changed out the thermostat and upper radiator hose and of course flushed and filled coolant, all was good - no hoses were loose, etc. Driver reports the truck did not overheat at any time.
Both ECT and EOT are within 10-12 degrees of each other, and did not go over 190 for me while driving around town the other day. There are no codes present, I cleaned the engine bay and drove and re-inspected but can't tell where the coolant is coming from as none appears to be leaking. Last note, I have to admit after driving for a day or two I had to fill the degas bottle up about 3/4 gallon of water. My questions is, what is the next step for me in the diagnostic process?
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I know I have a clogged oil cooler and normally I'm not home much during the summer months to know how it does during the summer. The outside temperature is around 95*, but the thermostat on the Ex is reading from 102 to 112, and it actually read 122 yesterday. Also, with the hot weather, I'm not noticing the fan kicking on under normal driving without a load. The AC is working, but it's not the ice cold AC I'm use to and does get better while cruising down the highway.
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2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.
I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.
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Ive had my 2011 for 20 months. I have 7,300 miles. I know the manual states changing around 22k but do you think time is a factor as well? I wont hit 22k for two years. Truck will be 3.5 yrs old. Should I just change them at 10k and see how they look? Don't want to waste the money either if its unnecessary. I use it 50/50 towing/unloaded.
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The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
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My battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
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I have a plow truck that over heats and cuts off. And when it cuts off it won't start till next day? I know the plow has to be low this is not my first plow truck.
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Last year while towing my fifth wheel to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon my oil temp went to 260 degrees several times. The outside temps were 95 degrees at the start and it is a long steep climb with a heavy load. Each time I pulled over for a bit, as I couldn't remember at what temp that plastic thing inside the oil filter melted. Each time it cooled off fairly quickly but it really stressed me out. So how hot can the oil get. I am using Rotella T-6 and my temp different is only 12-15 unloaded. Could I allow 280 for 15 minutes or so?
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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