Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Oil Pan Leaking Around The Edge And One Of The Bolts
Oct 24, 2012
Went in today and the Service advisor said the oil pan was leaking around the edge of the pan and one of the bolts. He stated he ordered a new oil pan and referred to it as a "new design". I asked him what the "new design" was and he had no idea. Didn't know if it was a metal pan like the newer trucks or if it was another plastic one. Looking for oil pan replacment by Ford and is it the newer metal one or another plastic one ??
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Ok I now have the dreaded leaking radiator on my 2011. I am wondering how the aftermarket radiators are holding up? I was talking with my local radiator repair shop and they have been repairing the oe radiator with good results. They also claim that they have repaired some aftermarket radiators. He did not mention any brand names so I can not make any claims against them. I am considering a mishimoto replacement.
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Took my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue. I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath. Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive. I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
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I've had my Edge CTS for two years and never noticed it turning itself off last summer.
This year, if the windows on the truck are rolled up and the interior is hot, The Edge displays a Red Error code and shuts down. 5-6 miles down the road as the truck has cooled off, The monitor will turn back on. I just don't remember that ever happening last summer, And I'm sure it got as hot as this year.
CTS turning itself off because of interior temps?
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I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
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I can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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I for the life of me can not even see the bolts to take them off.
2006 F350 4X4
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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There are two bosses on back of hpop cover that have bolts holding heat shroud for the exhaust. How difficult are these to remove? The drivers side looks fairly accessible, but passenger side I am not too sure of. I will be back to disassembling everything in a couple of days, and just getting a heads up on it.
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Got home from work this morning and noticed when I pulled in the drive and opened the door a ticking noise coming from under truck. Finally had time this evening to crawl under truck and investigate noise. It's coming from the front of the transmission where it bolts up to engine. It's a pretty much steady tick and goes away for a few seconds here and there. when you increase RPM's it's still there and I think goes away at higher RPM's, it doesn't get louder as you increase RPM's just stays the same level. Will get it to shop Monday hopefully and get this checked out and NoX sensor changed out too.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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While diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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Last night I noticed oil on my driveway. I got up under my truck and it was dripping at the trans. I'm not sure that's where it's actually leaking from because the other side of the oil pan had clean oil on the outside of it. What this could be?
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I use motor craft filters on all my fords but I'm considering jumping ship on my 6.7l... Here's why:
Even with a small punch that is just shy of the total length of the filter, I still get a boat load of oil leaking out the side of the filter when I unscrew it. I'm pretty sure the anti drain back valve is still holding oil in the filter mount...which is what it is supposed to do.
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looking at a 2006 180,000 miles in super condition except for a bed plate leak that was identified by a dealer and quoted $4200 to fix it. Owner elected to not fix.
Doesn't drip much at all, couple drops over the coarse of a day perhaps. What happens if you let this leak go?
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