Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Max Boost Rating On A Stock Turbo
Dec 25, 2013
Just wondering, what the max boost rating on a stock turbo, stock engine in a 2011 is. I know the gauge goes up to 40 PSI, but I don't think I've ever seen my go past 20.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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I have a 2013 F350. Since it was new in August the turbo has made a chattering sound that sounds to me like the waste gate (if it had one) is opening and closing rapidly. Almost like its building boost and dumping it over and over again. Usually happens when it is in 6th gear around 1700 rpm under light load. It also does it from time to time while plowing snow. You can power through it or let off and it will go away. My local dealer where it was bought new put a new turbo on it and the problem still persists. The truck just turned over 8k miles and has been in several times in attempt to resolve the issue. They say that there are no codes on the truck nor does Ford have anything on their service web. My dealer claims that no one has ever had the issue.
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I've been having issue with my truck lacking boost over the past month or so. The psi levels are normal in the morning when I start it up cold, the problem almost always occurs at start-up when the truck is somewhat warm and has been sitting for an hour or more after use. I've had boost levels at idle from -0.14psi to -0.56psi and as low as -1.2psi when driving as the problem is occurring, but it eventually kicks on and goes to normal levels after several minutes of driving. After originally taking the truck to a local diesel mechanic I was told it had EGR codes and they recommended installing an SCT tuner and cleaning the EGR valve to solve the problem. I had them install an SCT 5015 tuner and clean the valve but I've still been having the problems with boost.
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I have an '03 powerstroke 6.0, 4 inch turbo back exhaust. truck had lost boost and would cut in and out if i got on pedal and now a little bit of oil is collecting at tip, could this be because of bad turbo seals? And could the turbo still be alright? Another thing, I'm losing coolant, and I have noticed when I took the EGR out and cleaned it, the valve itself was the powdery black carbon, the cooler was wet, and I know it's not supposed to be like that. I am not thinking head gaskets yet, cause if it had a blown head gasket, I wouldn't be able to drive it. It is currently sitting, and I'm just trying to fix it. Would I be able to fix the turbo seals myself?
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I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
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This is a common problem. Mine goes to dealer in the morning for it. I haven't seen any recent posts within the last year on this. Did ford ever find a fix for my problem? When going up hill at low rpms I lose boost and hear the stutter out the intake..
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The ford dealer in Las Vegas replaced my turbo with a remanufactured one. Coming off the line (like quickly pulling into traffic) it goes flat on power until I get a few RPM's. Even with the old turbo it never did that and I drove it for the last 30k miles with it throwing the low turbo boost code. They put a little over 100 miles on it for road testing (I did have other things that they worked on. {4x4 2006 F250, 6.0 engine, 110k miles and I bought it new}....
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I have a 2011 that does not currently have the complete factory exhaust system on it and no muffler. With the nice weather I have been driving around with the windows down and hear a noise out of the exhaust that sounds like tires spinning on wet pavement when I let off the throttle or at some shifts of the transmission. Boost seems normal, and don't hear any noise while under load. I think it is just the VGT closing and making the noise. With deleted sys heard this noise in exhaust?
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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heard a loud squealing noise and now no boost. 2011 with 90k miles
whats my options and what would it cost.
1. replace with factory turbo
2. replace with upgraded turbo and tune?
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Bad day for the 2011 yesterday. Pulling my TT home from a great weekend tailgate. Stopped at rest area for a bio break. While accelerating on the on-ramp back to highway speeds, I hear/feel a pop under the hood. Immediately pulled over, and did a quick visual inspection, didn't see anything obvious, nor was anything dripping. Proceeded back onto highway.
Torque Pro indicated a P0471 & P1247, however no CEL lit on the dash. Noticed turbo boost was zero/near zero, and power output was way down. All 4 EGT sensors indicating 1000-1200 degree temps the entire time. Was able to make it home at reduced speeds. Noticed an odor burning engine oil too.
Was afraid truck wouldn't restart, so took it directly to the dealer after dropping trailer at home. Seems as though this should be covered under the 100K engine warranty, and I am at 95K now, so the timing was good if it was going to happen.
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Under light acceleration without any load. The motor backfired through the intake. Lost all boost. Other than the backfire noise the motor seems to be fine except for lack of power due to no boost. The motor has been serviced by Ford Dealer since new. All services have been done at 5K mile intervals. The last service was done at 60K miles. All filters had been changed at that time (oil, air and fuel).
I do have experience with turbo/ supercharged motors. My experience would tell me that the problem was with a lean condition at the time of the backfire. Plenty of fuel in the tank and no low fuel pressure warning. I have seen low fuel pressure warning in the past but it happened during the winter when temps were negative 40 degrees. The truck is still under extended warranty so I really don't have concerns regarding repair costs.
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
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I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
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I've got a 2002 Excursion which has been giving me a little trouble lately. I've got a DP tuner, 4" exhaust, afe stage 2, and gauges (boost, trans temp, EGT). I've been running these for about a year now without any truck problems until recently
So I noticed over the past couple weeks it has gradually been taking longer for the engine to start. Started off by just having to turn the engine over a few more times. Now it has turned into having to turning over the engine for a few seconds, then turning it to off, then trying again. It always starts on the second attempt to start my truck and sometimes really hard where it blows out a little black smoke.
Not sure if this is a correlation to the problem above or not, but I've also been losing boost pressure, and I'm not sure when this started since I haven't been on the highway for a while. I noticed this because this weekend I drove on the highway and saw that I was blowing some black smoke every time I accelerated which has never been the case.
So I check my boost gauge and see that I'm sitting at like 3-5psi when I used to be at around 10psi+. I also noticed when I accelerated the boost pressure would increase like normal but then quickly drop once I stopped accelerating which is unlike anything I've seen before in my truck. I don't seem to notice a huge difference power or throttle response, but then again 95% of the time I'm driving under 40 mph to get to work. So this problem could have started the same time as the starting problem, but I can't say definitively.
What this problem could be, what to check or test?
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ive noticed my boost has been going down lately. At first I thought it was a boost leak so I replaced all the intercooler boots and both sides of the intercooler pipes. That diddnt change anything at all. I recently got new injectors (200/30%) and a hydra tune for them and it was quick the first few days i was running with that setup, my boost has been dropping and currently at WOT I can't even get to 10lbs of boost and it is noticeable driving, it's slower than it was stock. There was no play in the shaft of my turbo and the turbo in there is only 2 years old. Could the turbo be bad already? Or is there anything else I can check before buying a new one. I have an upgraded hpop and the 6637 intake.
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Looking for if it would be okay to tune my 6.0 with the SCT SF3 tuner with the stock exhaust, I measured it and the stock exhaust is 3 and 5/8 inches...
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