Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Leaking Fuel Into The Valley Slowly At 208K Miles?
Jul 19, 2016
I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
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Ive had my 2011 for 20 months. I have 7,300 miles. I know the manual states changing around 22k but do you think time is a factor as well? I wont hit 22k for two years. Truck will be 3.5 yrs old. Should I just change them at 10k and see how they look? Don't want to waste the money either if its unnecessary. I use it 50/50 towing/unloaded.
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I've had a minor oil leak since I got my truck back from having the EGR, head studs, head gaskets, oil cooler done. It's gotten quite a bit worse lately to the point that I'm going to have to fix it. I added some UV dye and traced it up to the engine valley. All the leakage seems to be toward the back of the valley. Is there a common component that is prone to leaking in the valley that could be a starting point?
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, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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I just got a used F350 with 28k miles I cleaned the battery posts and checked all fluids, changed the fuel filters just in case they were due ( they looked pretty clean), air filter is a WIX had a bunch of bugs in it but still pretty clean... oil monitor says oil OK and filter looks too clean to be that old. It looks like a coolant leak at the turbo was fixed about 1000 miles ago or so and dealer said coolant would have been changed out at that time.
Am I missing anything I should do or check?
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Driving to work yesterday my engine shuttered and then shut off. The Display said low oil pressure and then powered down, all in about 15 seconds. Dealer called me today told me the engine is blown and is in the hands of Ford now. The only thing he told me was sit back and wait, I can not tell you how long it's going to be. but I am going to be screwed as far as work goes.
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So, I recently had my 4th oil change done at the dealer, just under 36k miles. Same dealer that has done /all/ service on my 2011. They used the same parts and materials as always, but this time there is a very noticeable "typewriter" sort of noise at idle. Much louder than the normal chatter, and not consistent - tick.... tick-tick... tick.... tick... tick tick tick... etc. The diesel tech shrugged it off: "Ford says it's nothing to worry about." As it has never happened before, and it sounded a /lot/ like lifter noise resulting from a low-oil condition, I asked him to put in another quart. He did, and the noise went away. Mostly.
Now I've only driven about 75 miles since the oil change, but the last time I drove it, I had the windows down and noticed what sounded like lifter noise again. Not the same pattern at idle. This time, it was under light acceleration and the frequency increased with engine speed. It's going back to the dealer in the morning. Not only for this, they're also on their third attempt in the past 2 weeks at fixing a squeak in the dash. But while it's in, I want this noise to go away.
In spite of all the posts about how this sort of noise it typical with new oil, and goes away in 10-2000 miles, I'm concerned. Nothing has changed other than the fresh oil and filter. In the last 3 oil changes, this condition never existed. Am I being reasonable?
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How many miles should I go before changing fuel filters and air filter?
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2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.
I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.
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I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
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Went in today and the Service advisor said the oil pan was leaking around the edge of the pan and one of the bolts. He stated he ordered a new oil pan and referred to it as a "new design". I asked him what the "new design" was and he had no idea. Didn't know if it was a metal pan like the newer trucks or if it was another plastic one. Looking for oil pan replacment by Ford and is it the newer metal one or another plastic one ??
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Ok I now have the dreaded leaking radiator on my 2011. I am wondering how the aftermarket radiators are holding up? I was talking with my local radiator repair shop and they have been repairing the oe radiator with good results. They also claim that they have repaired some aftermarket radiators. He did not mention any brand names so I can not make any claims against them. I am considering a mishimoto replacement.
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I recently was informed by my local mechanic that fuel was leaking into my coolant. He said I had a cracked head based on this and it would give soon. Well, he was right, and now I need to do a head job. I found new heads, but would like to know how many book hours this should take before I proceed. He gives me a wide range of time, and don't want to get taken advantage of.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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I had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
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Took my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue. I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath. Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive. I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
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I have a 2004 Ford F350 6.0. It is leaking diesel from the front of the engine to the ground. I have a video of this and pictures as well but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. What I can do??Puddle after about 20 min of running.
Dripping from here, left of hose....
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Couple of years ago I installed a fuel pressure gauge. I wrapped the fittings with teflon tape. Well within about a year it started leaking. So I shopped around and used Permatex Permashield fuel resistant sealant on the fittings. It says diesel resistant on the package. Couple months later leaking again. So I take it apart again, clean every fitting and follow the instructions to the letter. Well its leaking again. What will resist diesel fuel under 55 psi pressure. All the fittings seem to be pipe thread.
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I am scheduled to leave on a trip in the morning. I have installed an 85 gallon in bed auxillary fuel tank. I plumbed it in as per the instructions and the same as the last two I had in other trucks. After install I pumped 25 gallons in the aux to see how it worked. Every thing worked right. So yesterday I filled both tanks to the top and left the shutoff between them open.
This morning I noticed a puddle of diesel on the shop floor. Wiped it up and left for the golf course. Got home and found another puddle. I have closed the shut-off valve but it still seems to be leaking. It is not the plumbing I installed. It's hard to tell because I have a protector around the tank but it seems the leak is coming from the top. I just took a short run down the highway and reparked it. I have a can't miss appointment so when I get back I'll see how much has leaked.
Is there some kind of overflow on top the tank? Everything is dry where the aux tank is plumbed in and the air pipe seems to be fine. If the leak stops with the shutoff closed then I'm just gonna head out but if not then I'm gonna take down the shield and see what I can find, but I'd sure rather not.
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2011 F4 56.7 L diesel will not allow fuel in the tank.
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We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
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