Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Got Codes P0471 And P1247 - Blown Turbo?
Sep 21, 2015
Bad day for the 2011 yesterday. Pulling my TT home from a great weekend tailgate. Stopped at rest area for a bio break. While accelerating on the on-ramp back to highway speeds, I hear/feel a pop under the hood. Immediately pulled over, and did a quick visual inspection, didn't see anything obvious, nor was anything dripping. Proceeded back onto highway.
Torque Pro indicated a P0471 & P1247, however no CEL lit on the dash. Noticed turbo boost was zero/near zero, and power output was way down. All 4 EGT sensors indicating 1000-1200 degree temps the entire time. Was able to make it home at reduced speeds. Noticed an odor burning engine oil too.
Was afraid truck wouldn't restart, so took it directly to the dealer after dropping trailer at home. Seems as though this should be covered under the 100K engine warranty, and I am at 95K now, so the timing was good if it was going to happen.
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My 2011 F250 6.7 started throwing multiple codes a couple of weeks ago. I cleared them but they all came back at the same time. What these are pointing to? I'm assuming they're all related?
P0402 Exhaust gas flow excessive detection
P1249 Wastegate control valve performance
P0471 Exhaust pressure sensor A circuit range/performance
It throws 9 codes total, the three listed above, 3 times each.
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E99 Romps on start up and randomly dying. Bought this truck about 3 weeks ago. Previous owner mentioned he had issues with it getting hot and shutting off and not starting. Has new IPR, ICP and pigtail, I just put in a new fuel filter. Has 206k miles on it and is the 4R100.
The past two days after sitting all night I have been cycling the key twice and it hasn't done its romp. Typically when it does I can tap the pedal once and it goes away. This I could deal with but its started to die randomly while driving, never while cruising down the road. Its either just after starting it and rolling slowly or slowing down for a stop or to turn. When it dies, I can put it in neutral and it fires back up no problem. SES light usually comes on for about 10-15 seconds after but goes away.
Replaced the grey CPS that was in it with a dark grey one from RiffRaff Diesel. Got a Edge CTS2 to figure out the problem, the codes Im getting are P1280 and P1247.
The ICP pigtail they replaced they spliced on with butt connectors. I plan on pulling it to check for oil and make sure it does look new and redo the connections with solder then shrink wrap them.
I was told to check the IPR% under full throttle which I did and it never went higher than 36.7
The truck did start running rough around 45-50 mph and I did get a video of the ICP jumping around while cruising down the road.
Then I went through a drive through and the truck kind of hiccuped like it wanted to stall and the ICP went right to 725 PSI and idled up and stayed there until I started to leave.
Truck is pretty much stock, K&N air intake and muffler cut out and straight piped.
Here is a link to the videos I got :
e99 7.3 ICP fluctuation while driving - YouTube
e99 ICP steady at 725 PSI after acting like it wanted to stall. - YouTube
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Driving to work yesterday my engine shuttered and then shut off. The Display said low oil pressure and then powered down, all in about 15 seconds. Dealer called me today told me the engine is blown and is in the hands of Ford now. The only thing he told me was sit back and wait, I can not tell you how long it's going to be. but I am going to be screwed as far as work goes.
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My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
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I have a 2011 that does not currently have the complete factory exhaust system on it and no muffler. With the nice weather I have been driving around with the windows down and hear a noise out of the exhaust that sounds like tires spinning on wet pavement when I let off the throttle or at some shifts of the transmission. Boost seems normal, and don't hear any noise while under load. I think it is just the VGT closing and making the noise. With deleted sys heard this noise in exhaust?
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Just wondering, what the max boost rating on a stock turbo, stock engine in a 2011 is. I know the gauge goes up to 40 PSI, but I don't think I've ever seen my go past 20.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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I have a 2011 F-250 with 112k miles.
On 11/25/2016 at approximately 110k miles: my truck was 100% stock. I was about a half hour into a 3 hour drive and I got a Check Engine Light. I stopped to get some food and my truck was idling for about 10 minutes when the light came on. My code reader said it was for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I cleared the code, restarted the truck and drove away.. I drove about another 5 minutes until I started hearing a real bad air leak and the truck just didn't feel like it was driving right. Check engine light never came back on, but it just didn't feel right so I towed it home.
The truck went to the dealer, they said they found the EGR Inlet Tube was cracked, and that explained the air leak sound I heard when I continued driving, and they said the truck was probably running rich from the lack of air and that set the P0278 code. They replaced the tube and everything was fine.
On 12/14/2016 with around 111,500 miles: upset that just one pipe breaking could take down the whole truck with no one having that part in stock to get me back on the road, I "deleted" my truck. Removed the DPF, installed "block-off" plates for the EGR (which goes in place of the EGR inlet tube), a Cold-Air Intake, and H&S MiniMaxx. (Exact parts can be found in my signature).
On 12/25/2016 with around 112,500 miles: I was getting ready for work and I started my truck using the Ford Factory Remote Start that was original equipment on the truck. The truck ran for about 10 minutes when I hopped in it and took off. As soon as I got in it, The Check Engine Light was on and I had a code for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I erased the code and restarted the truck.. drove to work (around 50 miles) with no problems. Truck ran fine, I never felt any problems, and no smoke or anything like that.
10 hours later I'm getting ready to leave work and let the truck run on remote start for 10 minutes. I hop in the truck and drive away.. there's no check engine light, but, my tuner says there's two DTC's.. P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance" and now P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance"... I cleared the codes, restarted the truck, and drove home with no problems.
12/26/2016 I started the truck on remote start again for 10 minutes. No check engine light, but the tuner says there's one DTC for P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance". Cleared the code, restarted the truck, and drove to work with no problems. Got back in the truck after 12 hours, drove home and didn't get a DTC or Check Engine Light on the drive home.
12/27/2016: No DTC's or Check Engine light. Where I should start looking to fix this?
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2011 6.7L company truck that I drive. Couple days ago, got the Stop Safely Now message and CEL. There was noticeable loss in power as well. 10-15 seconds after SSN message, power came back and message went away. I'm assuming the loss of power was limp mode. It happened 2 more times today. Got to the dealer and they wouldn't read the code to tell me whether it was safe to drive, they were just too busy to take 3 minutes and read a code! Got codes read at O'Reilly and came up with the P2033 and P200C. I see where the P2033 may be a failing sensor, and that should be easy enough to confirm. My question specifically is regarding the P200C, Diesel Particulate filter Over Temp. Could this be a bad sensor as well, or could it be plugged causing the P2033?
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I bought a 2011 F-450 with 205,000 Miles on it with a blow engine. Local shop installed a Ford NEW complete engine. Unfortunately we had Code P24A5 EGR Cooler Bypass Control Stuck after the swap. Truck drives fine just has CEL on. Goes to FORD and they test Vacuum from engine, on line, and on compents say all is good. Replace Vacuum switch and Control and neither fix it. Ford stumped and quits responding. So i go get my truck back since they wont respond and had it over 2 weeks.
I get it back and now it has Codes P04DA Closed Loop EGR AT Limit - Flow to high and P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor in Range but Lower than expected. I also have a P21BO for the reductant level sensor "C" Circuit High.
Since picking it up from Ford, Truck has almost no throttle until oil temperature warms up. I clear codes, truck runs good after warming up and no CEL comes on. Drove it for over an hour. Next key cycle, and CEL is on with all the above codes. Could something be hooked up wrong? Where to start?
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I have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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So I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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Alright I have a 01 F250 with the 7.3L in it. Recently had the turbo rebuilt and all the surrounding gaskets changed as well as boots. All this was done around 1,000 miles ago. Runs great and I don't see/feel any issues, no white smoke anytime, little black when I turn up the tuner and really ride the thing but normal driving none. Problem is I have a pending P1247 code that after a few days will throw a CEL... I'm not sure what the problem is and have been searching the forum and people are mostly saying they get it but the boost drops or there isn't any at all and the truck my stall or bog down. I don't have any of those problems. Turbo spools up to whatever I want and I've never had it stall or bog or even get close... So what should I check? Also new to the site and diesels.
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Truck is a 2006 F-350 6.0, ARP studs, Ford Head Gaskets, Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler Kit and EGR with an SCT tuner on tow mode.
Towing approx 15,000 pounds noticed truck started to lose power and misfire. Pulled over and noticed engine oil all over the driver side on engine, looks like it sprayed to top of engine as well. Oil on valve cover, FICM, exhaust manifold. I looked under the truck and saw that oil is all over bottom of the truck, differential covered in oil as well. Looks like blue smoke coming from tailpipe and smells of oil burning. Cannot tell where oil originated from.
I removed the EGR Valve, to see if there was moisture on the valve and when I looked into the intake manifold there is engine oil pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold and on the EGR Valve.
This is not dirty water from soot, it is oil. Truck is misfiring, with no codes being thrown. I noticed a small amount of white residue around the radiator cap however I had just filled up the reservoir, week prior. I unfortunately do not have gauges in the truck and rely on the factory gauges; coolant temps did not rise or move at all when this happened. I am not sure if I blew a head gasket, and really confused on how engine oil got into the intake manifold. I ran the engine with the air filter removed and can see blue smoke coming out of the CCV and oil in residue in front of the turbo inlet.
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If you have a blown head gasket on a 6.0, after the gaskets were removed would you be able to tell where the gasket failed?
Since the gaskets are metal or multilayer metal in some cases would you be unable to tell where the gasket failed or would it always be visible?
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Weird thing happened today. Was out running errands, and upon pulling out into traffic I felt the truck lag a little. I figured it was the typical trans hiccup we all experience from time to time. As I continue driving, I notice I don't have any turbo boost.
I'm cruising around 55-60 and when I slowly give it gas......No boost. I stomp it and the turbo gauge slowly climbs to about 12 psi. At this point I waiting for the truck to throw a warning message and none came.
As I'm reaching my destination, the speed limit is 30 so I'm just putting along and any acceleration I did, the boost needle wouldn't move. I arrive at the store, and when I got back in 5 minutes later and drove off, My boost was back. Truck operated normal for the 25 minute trip home. I thought a similar thread was started but I couldn't find it.
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My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?
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Still working on this E450. Now, I'm trying to get the turbo back on and I don't know how the heck to get the oil tube in.
There's so little room that I can't lift the turbo up. Just getting it in and out is a chore. I was able to pull the oil tube out with some difficulty when I was removing the turbo, but if it put it in first, the turbo won't go over it to get back in. If I leave it disconnected to get the turbo in, I have no way to reach under it to get the oil tube back in.
I only messed with it for a little while - it's physically difficult bending over inside the van to wrestle with it - and will go back at it first thing in the morning. I know there's gotta be a way, I've just never done this before.
Do I stick the tube in the turbo first, in the engine, or neither until I got the turbo in place?
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