Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F450 Crank But No Start - Codes P0087 / P2291 And P2539
Sep 17, 2016
I have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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I'm getting a p0087 on a hard acceleration new low pressure pump new fuel filters run the pinpoint test in the pced is fine and passes the high pressure test with the ids? Not sure where to go from here?
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I was working out here on a site north of OKC and the truck has been running great all day. I shut it off to do the job and 20 mins later it will not start. I pulled the codes P2291 low ICP. One thing I noticed is that I cant hear the lift pump running when I turn the key on. I even drained the bowl on it and still can't hear anything. So I'm thinking bad lift pump or something.
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I've got a 2004 6.0 4x4 broke down in Gillette WY that will crank but won't start. We've had a cert. Ford mechanic bring out the computer first time it showed the IPR valve so that was replaced. Now it's not throwing any codes. We had it running for about 2 hours a week ago but the next morning it wouldn't start again. We're at a loss of what else to check. Here's what we've checked & replaced so far:
2 new batteries
New ICP Sensor
New IPR Valve
New #6 Injector
New Cam Sensor
Checked all fuses and relays
Oil is good
Coolant is good.
High pressure fuel test checked ficm 48 volts as it should be.
It's not the hpop because oil pressure stays up when cranking for fifteen seconds.
Cleaned secondary filter housing.
All filters are good.
Checked fuel pump it's good. ....
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Which is, Injector Control Pressure Too Low. First filter change on this truck. Purged the truck six times. No start. Purged it six more times. The truck started momentary. I've been purging for the last two hours. Now I have the code. What next?
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I have a 06 6.0 no start . I was at a light felt a slight shudder went to take off felt another shudder and it just died. Changed fuel filters, unplugged icp no start still. No code at first now throwing p2291. Fuel pressure is at 62 when cranking. Hooked up air to the icp port and only heard air coming out of both valve covers inlets. Ipr was at I believe 60 to 65% when cranking. Little back round 2 years ago I did the whole sinister diesel top end kit and put the updated parts in. New o rings on everything that took them, new egr valve, standpipes and dummy plugs. On the injectors all new o rings and crush washers. I believe that's everything.
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I just got a new 2006 E-350 van about 4 months a go (my previous 2004 got scraped - found out the fuel line leaving the secondary filter into the engine with clogged with bits of paper (wtf?)... after I decided salvaged it for parts for my new van...).
New van drives beautifully in the last 4 months without problem, but shut down on me on the highway yesterday. No strange noise or anything when it went out. I managed to coast safely to the side of the highway. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to start the truck again and had it towed home. It cranks, but doesn't start.
I have a scan gauge ii this time and it shows the following:
KOEO:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP 0
IPR 14.8%
Sync 0
Cranking:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP ~8PSI
IPR 84.7%
Sync 1
I still have a P0299 and P2262 check engine code from 2 days previous to the above, but this doesn't seem to be related to the no-start conditioning (both turbo related)
So, pretty much, I'm looking at a very low ICP. Some research indicates this is is due to a bad HPOP, bad STC fitting, or a massive leak. Given the really low ICP, can I rule out the STC fitting and leak? Looks like only the LPOP is providing pressure. Is there anyway to tell if the HPOP is dead or not once I remove it?
Anything I should shot-gun replace first? I have a bunch of salvaged parts from my old van in my garage, which doesn't include the HPOP unfortunately.
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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i have a 99 f450 7.3 that cranks but will not start. I did an injector buzz test but it sais no communication between the computers. it has a new rebuilt engine, new ipr, icp, hpop, water pump, and both computers.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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I have a 2011 f-450 6.7 - truck has 70K miles. The other day I was driving and the message said "Cleaning exhaust filter ". I usually keep it running a little to finish. Then shorty after a warning message came on which said "800 Miles to Exhaust fluid empty". So I went to fill tank and it was FULL. Now the warning keeps showing up each time I start the engine. It now says 300 miles to empty. I'm afraid it's going to go into limp mode even though the exhaust fluid tank is full.
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I have a 2011 f450 that I just bought and it has the plastic oil pan. I see that the newer 6.7 have the metal lower oil pan. Is there a good reason to change over to the metal pan? Is the 1/4 turn drain plug the problem?
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In the beginning of January I bought a 2004 F-450 6.0 with 186k miles (not sure if its been clocked back).
Since I bought the truck I have had only 2 issues that are odd. One is a hot no start that is very sporadic (its happened 5 or 6 times). I know it needs 500 psi min to crank and when that happens it gets to around 350psi. Because Im afraid of issues I did a oil change the day after I bought it did a road trip of 2500 miles (with no issues) and did a oil change again. All with motorcraft filters, lucas oil stabilizer and I use a little of diesel kleen or lucas injector cleaner every time I fuel up. I was told never go below half a tank so I follow that rule.
The second is a small oil leak from the passenger side. BUT it only happens when the truck sits for 3 or 4 days unused. During my road trip, not one drop. I used it on the weekend not one drop, but since its my 3rd vehicle I park it Sat or Sunday and by Wednesday Ill see the size of silver dollar, I cant seem to find it.
Also it has a egr delete but the heads have not been done, and I want to put a tuner. Would that be ok? I dont drive hard. As a example on my road trip I NEVER went past 70mph(with my wife saying I drive slow) and I averaged around 15mpg. I would like to get more mpg.
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2004 f450 with 6.0. Was driving down the road when it started losing power like it was starving for fuel. It carried on for about a mile then died and will not start. No codes at all and we put a new fuel pump on but still wont start. Put a rag with gas in the air box and will run but rough.
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ok i have a 2004 6.0 that has been a pain for the last 3 months so much so that i have replaced all the injectors,fuel pump ,water pump ,ficm, batterys , now 4 days ago i was driving and the truck stumbled for a second but i brushed it off as maybe I still had air in the fuel and the truck drove as it should .. now fast forward 2 days and whil driving it just died so I put the shifter in nutral and it fired right up in 2 seconds then it runs as it should for about 10 minuets then it died again and fired right up .. while i was turning around it died 3 more times but would crank and run then just 3 miles from home it died and would not crank . when I got the truck home I hooked up my computer and had a cam position sensor code so it sat for about 3 hours and as luck would have it it fired back up and run fine i once again checked it and the same code was there now its today and I once again fired up the truck and i checked every wire for chafing and I could not find any i even checked it while running and nothing so I drove all over the yard and the truck run great until it reached a temp of 191 at which time it shuttered and died I could crank iit back up then it would die again but now I have no codes and my icp and irp seem fine here is a screen shot while the truck is running.
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This morning I went to go to the corner to buy something, I knew it was colder than usual, -12F. I did not plug in the pre-heater last night. I let the truck idle for 15 minutes before moving it. It was still idling high. The P0087 code is the only code popping- is this just because of the cold temp? I haven't owned a diesel since my '79 Rabbitt, and this engine is as different from that as night is day. this didn't happen yesterday but it only got down to -2F and warmed up to about 18F.
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My hpfp just blew up 2 weeks ago. I'm still waiting to hear if my ford extended warentee will pay for it. What was weird for me was I had a p0087 code thrown about an hour before the p21b0 code. I had a 5sec warning of reduce power, then pull over now message, then it died before I could get over. All service down by ford, 48k miles on my 2011. I'm not happy that the truck left me on the side of the road with the 5th wheel in tow. Having a second failure? Not sure if I want to keep the truck now or not. Sounds like even the newer trucks are failing as well. I would have thought they would have this fixed by now.
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It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
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I have a 2011 F250 w/6.7 Powerstroke. Love it. In September I came out of work, turn the key to on position...no glow plug indicator light, no high pitch whine of the fuel pump and most importantly, it won't crank. Gauges all light up, but no glow indicator, no fuel pump sound and no crank. Get towed to dealer. Next morning they try it, and it starts right up. They can't get it to fail. Sent me home with no trouble found.
A few weeks later, same condition in my garage. I had thought that maybe there was some sort of safety switch that perhaps thought it wasn't in park. I put in neutral, roll back about 6 inches, glow plugs light, fires right up. Now I think I'm on to something. In the last 2 weeks, it happened 2 more times, and both times I'm able to get it to light up by rolling a couple inches. Then, last night, same problem, but parked against a curb. Try to push up hill, but no luck.
Have to get towed to dealer again. Tow truck drops at dealer, and because I knew it would, I tried to start, and it worked. Dealer called me, says they can't get it to fail (again), but found one battery was "bad". I'm not really buying the battery story, but also understand the dealer having trouble figuring out what is wrong when nothing goes wrong for them.
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I purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.
0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump
Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)
fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.
I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,
There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.
The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.
I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.
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