I have a 2011 f450 that I just bought and it has the plastic oil pan. I see that the newer 6.7 have the metal lower oil pan. Is there a good reason to change over to the metal pan? Is the 1/4 turn drain plug the problem?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2011 f-450 6.7 - truck has 70K miles. The other day I was driving and the message said "Cleaning exhaust filter ". I usually keep it running a little to finish. Then shorty after a warning message came on which said "800 Miles to Exhaust fluid empty". So I went to fill tank and it was FULL. Now the warning keeps showing up each time I start the engine. It now says 300 miles to empty. I'm afraid it's going to go into limp mode even though the exhaust fluid tank is full.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
I have a 2011 F350 SRW with 3.55 differential. I'm was going to change the fluid, however, what type do I use? The manual calls for 75-90 with the Dana rear end or 75-140. How do I know which rear end I have? Is there a build sheet with code on the vehicle anywhere?
View 14 RepliesGetting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
Here is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
My friend has an F450 with the 6.0, and discovered fuel in his coolant. I have the 7.3 in my truck, and know next to nothing about the 6.0. Can bad Injector sleeves cause this ? Is that the same as "seats" ? I am not up on my terminology. He thinks he needs new heads for his truck, but I don't agree.
View 6 RepliesI have an F450 with a 6.0 turbo diesel with 267000 miles std trans. 4wd and just bought it a few weeks ago. When the engine is cold, the truck runs fine but after driving for 15 minutes, I loose power in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. The gauge for the turbo drops from 20 down to 5 and the truck starts blowing black smoke. This starts at 1500 rpms and stops when I am past 2200 rpms.
Before 1600 rpms and after 2200 rpms, the truck has lots of power but withing those ranges, the truck has almost no power at all. When I first got the truck, the problem didn't start until I was up to 1800 rpms. No codes showing up either. I had the truck serviced by a diesel mechanic and the filters replaced using Ford parts. Problem persists and only exists when the engine is warm.
2004 f450 with 6.0. Was driving down the road when it started losing power like it was starving for fuel. It carried on for about a mile then died and will not start. No codes at all and we put a new fuel pump on but still wont start. Put a rag with gas in the air box and will run but rough.
View 6 RepliesI am on the market for a 2015 Ford F350 with an 11' Royal utility body on the back for my electrical contracting business.
Ford have come back to me and said I need a F450 as I am going with the supercab, the F350 can not handle the 11' utility body.
I have head that the F450 can cost more in Insurance and use more diesel. I contacted my insurance company and they said it wouldn't change to much, this is in CA.
Is there any differences between the F350 and F450 apart from the rear axle and larger brakes. Also if there a major difference in MPG.
I currently have a Ford F150 Limited and love it!
In the beginning of January I bought a 2004 F-450 6.0 with 186k miles (not sure if its been clocked back).
Since I bought the truck I have had only 2 issues that are odd. One is a hot no start that is very sporadic (its happened 5 or 6 times). I know it needs 500 psi min to crank and when that happens it gets to around 350psi. Because Im afraid of issues I did a oil change the day after I bought it did a road trip of 2500 miles (with no issues) and did a oil change again. All with motorcraft filters, lucas oil stabilizer and I use a little of diesel kleen or lucas injector cleaner every time I fuel up. I was told never go below half a tank so I follow that rule.
The second is a small oil leak from the passenger side. BUT it only happens when the truck sits for 3 or 4 days unused. During my road trip, not one drop. I used it on the weekend not one drop, but since its my 3rd vehicle I park it Sat or Sunday and by Wednesday Ill see the size of silver dollar, I cant seem to find it.
Also it has a egr delete but the heads have not been done, and I want to put a tuner. Would that be ok? I dont drive hard. As a example on my road trip I NEVER went past 70mph(with my wife saying I drive slow) and I averaged around 15mpg. I would like to get more mpg.
What it is or why there is a three inch pull handle hanging down on the bottom of the Diesel Tank on my niece new 2012 F350??? It is sitting hanging there begging to be snagged and ripped off the bottom of the tank!!!!! I'm at least going to Gorilla Tape it up to the bottom of the Tank.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel with a 12 foot flatbed on it that I use for my power washing business. The air conditioner sometimes won't work when I first drive it in the morning. After I make a few stops and turn the engine on/off a few times it will all of the sudden start working again.
This happens about 2 or 3 times a month and I don't have time to have it sit at Ford so they can duplicate the problem. It's going in for it's 60,000 mile service in the morning anyways so I'll still have the dealer look at it. What might be causing this?
2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12 Foot Flatbed
I have a 2012 ford f 450 which has the standard Rancho shocks,the problem is the ride is very rough and the truck bounces when the road gets a little bit undulating. How did you fix it.
View 8 Replies2006 F450 6.0 that I've owned since new. It has had 2 injectors replaced previously, EGR cooler with BPD, and a few other problem parts. As it is getting older, I have recently noticed it runs like absolute dog crap when it is cold. It can't even reasonably accelerate onto the hwy when cold. Once it is up to operating temp, it runs better. It still does not pull like it did when it was new and under 50k miles...but it is at least driveable once warm. I need to do some heavy trailer towing soon and need to get this thing back to accelerating good. What should I be looking at first for the horrible running condition when cold?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
View 6 Replies2016 F450 tuned...how to improve fuel economy. DO fuel rails or injectors work...
View 7 RepliesI had my truck at the dealer a while back while it was still under warranty and I told them that it was leaking around the oil pan. It was bad enough to coat the pan in oil, but no drips on the floor. They claimed no issue and sent me home. Well now my warranty is up and it's dripping on my shop floor. It is weeping out around the bolt heads.
I'm going to call the dealer in the morning and see if they will work with me since I did have it in under warranty for this same issue.
6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
View 14 RepliesI own a 2003 Ford F-450 Superduty Chassis w/Utility Body. Owned it for the last 2-1/2 years . So far, the only things needing replacement were an Alternator, FICM, and routine oil and transmission fluid as well as filters.
This past week the truck started lurching while in traffic. I brought it back to the shop and put the scanner on it, and found codes for #1,#3,#5 injectors imbalance and no circuit to the fan motor. Did some research and found low oil and/or dirty oil could affect the injectors, I changed the oil and all filters also removed the EGR and cleaned it too.
I started the truck ran it, stopped, and restarted and let it run for a few. I cleared the codes and did another test. The only code that came up was the Cooling fan P0528 again. I let the truck run. All of a sudden the truck revved up and I could hear the turbo kick in and the engine seemed to take a life of it's own. I did another round with the scanned and found codes for Cruise Control popping up P0565 through p0569 and the p0528 again along with a p1000.
My truck is not equipped with cruise control, but apparently that is what might be making the engine surge. What do I do? What this might be???