Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F350 - 5th Wheel Prep Package Cover Have Holes?
Feb 28, 2011
I have a 2011 F-350 that came with the 5th wheel prep package which has rubber, two piece hole covers. Every time I slide something out of the bed across these covers they pop off or come partly off. I don't have a 5th wheel trailer and no plans to get one. Having trouble with the covers and come up with a better cover that would stay on when sliding cargo in and out. I hate just leaving the holes open to collect things. I wonder if some sort of galvanized electrical box cover would work with some sort of mount system under it?
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2011 F250 Fx4 diesel. I'm pulling a 14' GN dump trailer. My truck squats. Should I go to ford and get a quote to put the overload package on or put in an airbag system? I want to put a on-board air compressor in for air chuck use and louder horn.
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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I was looking for something to cover the four holes in the bed that my fifth wheel hitch fits into. The hole size is 2 inches. What is the diameter of the ford OEM pucks that come with the fifth wheel prep package. By the way I really like my new 18K pull-rite super glide hitch worked great my first trip with new fifth wheel. Pulled about 13000 lb trailer on 1200 mile from central California up to Grants Pass, Oregon and back down the coast. I used 93 gallons and got an average of 12.3 mile per gallon. Truck worked like a charm. No issues.
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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I have a 2011 f350 that i bought with 30k miles on it and I now have 40 k miles. My truck will not go over 83mph it seems like its governed out there.. I have taken it to ford and they thought it was my key was set to max speed 80mph. but it was not and could not figure it out.. I have tried to disconnect the batteries to reset computer. I have not clue what is going on. I do have 35's (tires) on the truck with a leveling kit. But I have verified my speed only going 83 with ford and my own gps device..
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
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2011 F350 diesel with 10,000 miles. I have been experiencing problems with the truck loosing power, making rough running noise (pinging like an older diesel), and vibrating. As though the motor is bogging down. It usually occurs on small inclines or hills with the truck in higher gears and low rpms. It will also occur running on flat ground 65-70 mph. Had it occur once while turning the truck around in 1st gear and low rpms. Depressing the accelerator will bring the truck out of it.
This problem occurs randomly sometimes a couple of times a week to not at all. Took to dealer and they found no codes and of couse it didn't do it on the hour long test drive I took the mechanic on. However they did say they had two other owners come in with the same complaints, but could not get trucks to repeat the issue. Problem usually occurs in the hotter part of the day, maybe just coincidence. I had seen similar posts with this problem but no conclusions.
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I have a 2011 6.7 F-350 Diesel. I bought the truck new and I've never had any problems with it until now. I have a SCT Chip & Tuner. It needed an update so I returned the truck to stock and a code came up on my dashboard that said "reduced engine power" which obviously I thought was Normal because of the modifications done to my truck.
I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...
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I have a 2011 f350 srw 6.7 with 3.55 I found a 2013 f350 drw. I tow a 5th wheel 2 times a year , and the other time use for work about 45 k per year . I am getting 18.0 mpg on highway now, if I trade this and get the 2013 drw what could I get mpg as a daily driver....
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I've got a 2011 F350 Lariat crew cab and when i get up to 75 mph with a cross wind, there is a whistling noise. it sounds like a turbulent whistle as if its blowing across the ribbed portion down by the wipers. I tried to get audio but for some reason my phone wont pick up the noise, but its extremely loud at times. Sometimes it will wake up the kids if they're napping in the back seat.
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The past month or two, my garage-kept 2011 F350 6.7 with 38K miles will shudder on startup for a second or two or three then runs normal. What would be causing that? She is my every day driver, but I don't drive her every day. Seems that the longer she sits, the rougher the startup. Last time I drove her was Monday. Started her up tonight to run to the store and she shuddered for about three seconds.
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Took my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue. I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath. Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive. I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
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2011 Ford F350, 69K miles... Just started, at about 30mph. I am hearing a Chirp from the front, speeds up when I speed up and goes away with brakes or slow below 30.
Friend thinks its the brake warning telling me its time for new. Bugging me. Just started. Never changed brakes.
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Just went out this morning to start my 2011 F350 diesel and the starter is doing a "chugging" sound. Not spinning the starter at all. Just turned 60,000 miles last week and this is the very first issue that I have had with the truck.
I have put a trickle charger on the battery on the drivers side, and plan to leave it on for an hour or so.
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1st major problem on my 72,000 mile 2011 F350 is an oil leak that has gotten worse in a short time.. I've been putting it off as I can't be without my truck as I use it for my business but I have to take it in as its leaking pretty bad and leaving its mark on every driveway I pull into,going to take it in the morning to get diagnosed,going to have the exhaust smell in cab during regen looked at also as its been a problem for sometime time now but have just have delt with it till now. Here is a pic of the leak...
Where it may be coming from? Looks like its coming from the top side somewhere..
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2011 6.7 F350 .... 120,000 miles ....I have been smelling anti-freeze for the last couple of months but have been unable to find a leak. Going through a minor amount of fluid but no indication on the ground ...
Searching deeper today I see the bottom of my intercooler is wet - remove the air hose and there is some fluid. I am assuming there is NOT supposed to be fluid in the air intake hose - correct?!?!
Any thoughts or history on these intercoolers letting-go and leaking internally?
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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel ... Is this a problem we need to have fixed?
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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel .... Is this a problem we need to have fixed...
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I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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