Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F250 - Knock / Rattle Under Front Passenger Side Floor
Sep 24, 2012
I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
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I have a 2011 f250 crew cab lariat that actually sits about 3" higher on the passenger side in the rear. I never noticed until I put some 4" pro comp blocks on the rear. I measured before and the rear left was 40" and right was 41-3/4". Now the drivers side rear is 42" and rear passenger side is 45"? I have looked at the blocks to make sure they are seated properly and everything is installed correct so what gives? What could be causing this. I bought the truck with 99k miles and now it's at 130k miles. I do tow a small cargo trailer sometimes but it is only about 3k lbs. Now I am thinking of buying some new leaf springs to see if that corrects the problem.
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Got stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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I purchased a 2011 350 crew cab lariat 6.7 diesel last week. That night i noticed that the passenger side map light was considerably dimmer than the drive side. Had to go back to the dealership 2 days later anyways to get a second key made. Showed the tech the light and he gave me 2 new bulbs to replace both lights with. Both were great for about a week but i noticed the passenger side has once again become dim....
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I have to change out the inner seals on my front axle on my 04 f250 6.0 4x4. was wondering what the torch spects are for the bolts on the end caps and the torch spects on the differential cover? I already have the passenger side axle out. was changing my ball joints on that side when I noticed a bunch of oil in the axle case and on the hub knuckle. Also, this might be a long shot but is there any way to change the inner seal on the drivers side without taking out the axle on that side? I have the passenger out and if I could get away without pulling the driver side that would be awesome.
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There's a pump or ?? I'm not sure . Our "11 6.7 is making whining vibrating sound coming off passenger side , front of valve cover . Not sure what this is . Nothing I'm searching is telling me n I'm not best with diesels .
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I'm having a squeak/rattle type sound coming from my front drivers side wheel (more rattle). It only happens when I go over a quick bump and happens going straight and while turning. 2012 f250. 87k miles. 4x4. I have a two inch block level (southern truck) up front..
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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This is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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My superduty had rattles on the doors. It sounded like it was coming from the plastic inside part. I have battled thses for months and have finally found what it was. Come to find out is was the glue adhesive that Ford uses to put the moisture barrier in. The simple way to fix it was to duct tape all of the edges up behind the door skin. Tape up the moisture barrier at the edges and put the skin back on. I added some foam behind mine to firm up the plastic skin as well. It was tough getting the skin back on but sure did work it alot. I did this to both front doors. Was not necessary to the rear ones.
With the wind noise beside the head on the drivers side.......At first I thought it was the window seal but that was not it come to find out. I looked a tthe passenger side and looked at the drivers wondering what it could be. I noticed that the drivers door at the top was not in line and laying flat with the rear door. From the plant......Ford had the door at the latch side too high. It was only off maybe 3 16th's......very small but I lowered the door with the striker. Got the door in line with the back door from top to bottom. I also did Epics door mod with the surgical tubing.
I lined up the door and tested it a few times. Made minor adjustments and Solved. Im pretty sure I got 90% out of it. I can still hear A LITTLE but it may be my imagination. Its probably in my head at this point since I have been ticked at the truck since I bought it. I hope mine stays quiet. That wind noise thing has come and gone before so I will post in a few months on how shes doing. As for now I tightened everything down and am gonna let my 6.7 haul!!!
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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2011 F-250 6.7
H&S Mini Maxx
Fully Deleted
What is going on with my tranny. I purchased my truck back in August with only 14k miles on it. It was a weekend camper hauler for the previous owner who drove very little. He bought it brand new and had it fully deleted with the mini maxx put in right away. I bought it in that current condition. Since buying it I have used it as a daily driver. Current mileage is 21k.
About 2 weeks ago I did 2 things. First, I decided to update my mini maxx from H&S's website to make it current as I was having a really firm shift from 2-3 gear. This is a know issue with my year truck due to a solenoid issue and I figured a more up to date tune might work. Second thing I did was tow for the first time since getting it. I towed an open bed car hauler with an SUV on it down the highway for about 150 miles. Prob about 7k#s. While on this trip I noticed my tranny temp go up to 235 degrees. When I reached my destination I parked the truck and stayed the night and returned back down the highway unloaded not towing anything and it still went back to 235. Trip was on the highway and is mostly flat with very few hills.
I monitor all gauges religiously and know my trans has never even gotten close to 200 before. My oil and coolant were both running in their normal mid to high 190 range and everything else appeared normal about the truck. I have talked to several diesel performance shops and received multiple ideas about what it might be. All seem to be in agreement that it is not my tuner as no one else that I can find has had this issue with their mini maxx after updating.
What is wrong range from the solenoid issue making the gears slip causing additional heat.... to my thermostat in the coolant valve having gone bad. I have had it in the local Ford dealership all week and they are completely clueless. They claim that everything they can check with their computer for flow and whatnot is functioning perfectly fine. They also claim that at 235 it is not out of spec according to Ford and that Ford doesn't consider this temperature to even be an issue or something that needs to be fixed.
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I'm starting to get an intermittent CEL for P2074 ("Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Higher Load"). It first came on Saturday halfway into a 4 hour drive (Not towing, just driving 75mph-80mph on the freeway). I cleared the code and restarted the truck and it immediately came back on. About a half hour later I stopped for fuel, cleared the code, and it stayed off for the rest of the trip.
Got into the truck today and drove it for 10 minutes (driving around town) and it came back on. Cleared the code and restarted the truck, drove it for about a hour and it never came back on. The truck is running and driving just fine.
The truck is a 2011 F-250, all stock (except for a AFE Cold air intake that's been on the truck for a while now). The truck has about 98,000 miles.
From what I've read on other posts, it might just be a mass air flow sensor? Should I just replace that myself, or pay the $100 extended warranty deductible and take it into Ford?
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We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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Noticed oil on the underside of the engine last oil change, took to Ford dealer for repair under extended warranty. Got a call back today, stating the the oil leak is coming from a injector on the drivers side, and that the injector seals is not covered under warranty. I'm having an issue understanding that oil leaking out from around the injector is not covered under a power train warranty.
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