Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F250 - Vacuum Brake Booster Failures
Jun 14, 2016
Brake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
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Haven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
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After replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
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So I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.
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Brake pedal whistles and is hard to push. Only happens intermittently. Mechanic wants to put new brake booster on. This would be 3rd brake booster in 9mos. It's gotta be something else. What does the vacuum hose connect to from the check valve; where on the intake manifold? If no PVC valve...then what else? Truck runs fine...no fast idle or rough idle and no hesitation.
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I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
[URL].........
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Was wondering if it is safe to use seafoam through my brake booster vacumm line? If I drip it in SLOW can I still hydrolock my engine?
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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My dealer tells me 4oz/25 gal is all that I need, and also written right on the bottle. That does NOT seem like much to enhance the lubricity as it will be quite diluted in the fuel. For my tank I figure 5oz or so for a full tank should be about on par, maybe give me a bit extra, with the recommended amount.
There was a comment here that adding a whole bottle isn't necessary and it won't hurt anything either. My question is will there be any benefit for using more than recommended? At what point is it a waste?
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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2011 F-250 6.7
H&S Mini Maxx
Fully Deleted
What is going on with my tranny. I purchased my truck back in August with only 14k miles on it. It was a weekend camper hauler for the previous owner who drove very little. He bought it brand new and had it fully deleted with the mini maxx put in right away. I bought it in that current condition. Since buying it I have used it as a daily driver. Current mileage is 21k.
About 2 weeks ago I did 2 things. First, I decided to update my mini maxx from H&S's website to make it current as I was having a really firm shift from 2-3 gear. This is a know issue with my year truck due to a solenoid issue and I figured a more up to date tune might work. Second thing I did was tow for the first time since getting it. I towed an open bed car hauler with an SUV on it down the highway for about 150 miles. Prob about 7k#s. While on this trip I noticed my tranny temp go up to 235 degrees. When I reached my destination I parked the truck and stayed the night and returned back down the highway unloaded not towing anything and it still went back to 235. Trip was on the highway and is mostly flat with very few hills.
I monitor all gauges religiously and know my trans has never even gotten close to 200 before. My oil and coolant were both running in their normal mid to high 190 range and everything else appeared normal about the truck. I have talked to several diesel performance shops and received multiple ideas about what it might be. All seem to be in agreement that it is not my tuner as no one else that I can find has had this issue with their mini maxx after updating.
What is wrong range from the solenoid issue making the gears slip causing additional heat.... to my thermostat in the coolant valve having gone bad. I have had it in the local Ford dealership all week and they are completely clueless. They claim that everything they can check with their computer for flow and whatnot is functioning perfectly fine. They also claim that at 235 it is not out of spec according to Ford and that Ford doesn't consider this temperature to even be an issue or something that needs to be fixed.
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I'm starting to get an intermittent CEL for P2074 ("Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Higher Load"). It first came on Saturday halfway into a 4 hour drive (Not towing, just driving 75mph-80mph on the freeway). I cleared the code and restarted the truck and it immediately came back on. About a half hour later I stopped for fuel, cleared the code, and it stayed off for the rest of the trip.
Got into the truck today and drove it for 10 minutes (driving around town) and it came back on. Cleared the code and restarted the truck, drove it for about a hour and it never came back on. The truck is running and driving just fine.
The truck is a 2011 F-250, all stock (except for a AFE Cold air intake that's been on the truck for a while now). The truck has about 98,000 miles.
From what I've read on other posts, it might just be a mass air flow sensor? Should I just replace that myself, or pay the $100 extended warranty deductible and take it into Ford?
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We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
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Was out on a camping trip. Went to move the truck and it acted like the emergency brake was on. I put it in and out of park 3-4 times with the same result. Noticed when I took my foot off the brake, it went from 1st to 5th. One of the guys in our group said to turn off the truck, wait 10 seconds. I did and all is well again. There were no CEL lights or anything.
Have 2700 miles on my 2011 (bought new May)
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Noticed oil on the underside of the engine last oil change, took to Ford dealer for repair under extended warranty. Got a call back today, stating the the oil leak is coming from a injector on the drivers side, and that the injector seals is not covered under warranty. I'm having an issue understanding that oil leaking out from around the injector is not covered under a power train warranty.
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Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
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I have a 2011 F-250 with about 5000 miles. Sunday night, I was driving home and first got the CEL. Then less than 5 miles later, I got the red "Stop Safely Now". Pulled over and the thing just died. Checked the message center and nothing out of the ordinary other than the SSN message. Had to wait about 45 minutes for the tow truck and thought it might cool down. I tried to start it while waiting but got nothing. Battery was good and all electronics worked. Waiting to hear a diagnosis from the dealer.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
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