Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F250 - CEL On Then Stop Safely Now Message
Sep 7, 2011
I have a 2011 F-250 with about 5000 miles. Sunday night, I was driving home and first got the CEL. Then less than 5 miles later, I got the red "Stop Safely Now". Pulled over and the thing just died. Checked the message center and nothing out of the ordinary other than the SSN message. Had to wait about 45 minutes for the tow truck and thought it might cool down. I tried to start it while waiting but got nothing. Battery was good and all electronics worked. Waiting to hear a diagnosis from the dealer.
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2011 6.7L company truck that I drive. Couple days ago, got the Stop Safely Now message and CEL. There was noticeable loss in power as well. 10-15 seconds after SSN message, power came back and message went away. I'm assuming the loss of power was limp mode. It happened 2 more times today. Got to the dealer and they wouldn't read the code to tell me whether it was safe to drive, they were just too busy to take 3 minutes and read a code! Got codes read at O'Reilly and came up with the P2033 and P200C. I see where the P2033 may be a failing sensor, and that should be easy enough to confirm. My question specifically is regarding the P200C, Diesel Particulate filter Over Temp. Could this be a bad sensor as well, or could it be plugged causing the P2033?
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Luckily I was sitting in the driveway. Pulled the truck out of the garage. It started fine, idled fine, did not make as much noise as I was expecting but was warmer in the garage than outside. Stopped in front of the garage door to grab a couple things in the garage, jumped back in and it quit before I could get it in gear and roll out. Weird. This is the first time I've ever had to get a tow.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 Turbo Diesel I recently purchased. I am hearing a noise when accelerating from a stop. The only time I'm hearing it is when the window is down. The noise sounds like someone is tapping an aluminum pop can. It is easily reproducible as well. I decided to get under the truck and have my wife toggle the transmission from park to reverse. They noise does not occur unless one foot is placed on the brake and the accelerator is lightly pressed. (My wife had the opportunity to run me over and claim it as an accident but lucky me she decided not too). Below is a video. I had a hard time locating the noise. It sounds like it may be coming from the exhaust or drive shaft. The drive shaft does not spin when toggling from reverse to drive but the ticking noise can be simulated and heard when lightly pressing the gas while holding the brake. Something need lubed somewhere?
Clicking noise - YouTube ....
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I started up the truck. It cranked perfectly as always. Was half way out of the parking lot going give mph and a warning beeping started with a message "stop vehicle safely". I did and the engine died. When I try to crank it it will not turn over at all. No power to engine at all.
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2012 F250 Lariat with 18k on the clock. FOr the past two months I've had a temporary side job on weekends and had to haul some trailers. I noticed my trailer gain operates sporadically and if I try and adjust it she tells me there's no trailer connected. I've edited the settings and reset all the settings also. I find this particularly annoying when towing the 4,000 lb trailer but I'm also hauling single axle trailers and it hasn't registered that I'm towing once.
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Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
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I have a 2011 f-450 6.7 - truck has 70K miles. The other day I was driving and the message said "Cleaning exhaust filter ". I usually keep it running a little to finish. Then shorty after a warning message came on which said "800 Miles to Exhaust fluid empty". So I went to fill tank and it was FULL. Now the warning keeps showing up each time I start the engine. It now says 300 miles to empty. I'm afraid it's going to go into limp mode even though the exhaust fluid tank is full.
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Got the warning on the message center.. 2011 F350 38,000 miles. I am not original owner, has lifetime POWERTRAIN so thinking of letting dealer handle this,,,but..?
With the importance of these cooling systems.. and coolant being in there for approx. 60 months.. I am thinking why pay for test kit or pay dealer to test it and add additive...
I guess I could just buy the oem coolant and distilled water and drain & fill it myself... but can I use garden hose to flush? Or just better to let FORD handle it?
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New to Diesel trucks, have a 2012 F250 with 4000 miles on it. for the first 3000 miles I would see regular messages about "Cleaning Exhaust Filter" about every 100 miles or so, but this last 1000 miles I have not seen any?? I drive about 100 + miles a day, 55 to 65 mph so I'm sure I'm running it long enough.
The other thing I've noticed is that my MPG has gone from 17 down to 14 which is what I would normally see during a cleaning cycle. It almost seems like I'm in a constant state of cleaning as my MPG has taken a dive... Any things I should check?
Side note, I towed a 30ft RV around the 3000 mile mark, since the tow I haven't seen the message.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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2005 6.0L F250 Lariat. I picked up a couple weeks ago. The message center in the gauge cluster will only show my mileage (kilometres) and engine hours but nothing else.
Also the three buttons/controls to the right of the steering column don't do anything. I checked the wiring behind the dash and it's all plugged in... The other problem is the SRS light will flash on and off while driving.
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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2011 F-250 6.7
H&S Mini Maxx
Fully Deleted
What is going on with my tranny. I purchased my truck back in August with only 14k miles on it. It was a weekend camper hauler for the previous owner who drove very little. He bought it brand new and had it fully deleted with the mini maxx put in right away. I bought it in that current condition. Since buying it I have used it as a daily driver. Current mileage is 21k.
About 2 weeks ago I did 2 things. First, I decided to update my mini maxx from H&S's website to make it current as I was having a really firm shift from 2-3 gear. This is a know issue with my year truck due to a solenoid issue and I figured a more up to date tune might work. Second thing I did was tow for the first time since getting it. I towed an open bed car hauler with an SUV on it down the highway for about 150 miles. Prob about 7k#s. While on this trip I noticed my tranny temp go up to 235 degrees. When I reached my destination I parked the truck and stayed the night and returned back down the highway unloaded not towing anything and it still went back to 235. Trip was on the highway and is mostly flat with very few hills.
I monitor all gauges religiously and know my trans has never even gotten close to 200 before. My oil and coolant were both running in their normal mid to high 190 range and everything else appeared normal about the truck. I have talked to several diesel performance shops and received multiple ideas about what it might be. All seem to be in agreement that it is not my tuner as no one else that I can find has had this issue with their mini maxx after updating.
What is wrong range from the solenoid issue making the gears slip causing additional heat.... to my thermostat in the coolant valve having gone bad. I have had it in the local Ford dealership all week and they are completely clueless. They claim that everything they can check with their computer for flow and whatnot is functioning perfectly fine. They also claim that at 235 it is not out of spec according to Ford and that Ford doesn't consider this temperature to even be an issue or something that needs to be fixed.
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I'm starting to get an intermittent CEL for P2074 ("Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Higher Load"). It first came on Saturday halfway into a 4 hour drive (Not towing, just driving 75mph-80mph on the freeway). I cleared the code and restarted the truck and it immediately came back on. About a half hour later I stopped for fuel, cleared the code, and it stayed off for the rest of the trip.
Got into the truck today and drove it for 10 minutes (driving around town) and it came back on. Cleared the code and restarted the truck, drove it for about a hour and it never came back on. The truck is running and driving just fine.
The truck is a 2011 F-250, all stock (except for a AFE Cold air intake that's been on the truck for a while now). The truck has about 98,000 miles.
From what I've read on other posts, it might just be a mass air flow sensor? Should I just replace that myself, or pay the $100 extended warranty deductible and take it into Ford?
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We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
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Noticed oil on the underside of the engine last oil change, took to Ford dealer for repair under extended warranty. Got a call back today, stating the the oil leak is coming from a injector on the drivers side, and that the injector seals is not covered under warranty. I'm having an issue understanding that oil leaking out from around the injector is not covered under a power train warranty.
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Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
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