Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Dreaded Leaking Radiator
Mar 13, 2015
Ok I now have the dreaded leaking radiator on my 2011. I am wondering how the aftermarket radiators are holding up? I was talking with my local radiator repair shop and they have been repairing the oe radiator with good results. They also claim that they have repaired some aftermarket radiators. He did not mention any brand names so I can not make any claims against them. I am considering a mishimoto replacement.
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, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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Read that this is a common issue, leaking out crimped seam on lower LH (2012 F250 King Ranch). I have called Ford customer service twice, they said "we do not have any recall or programs to cover the out of warranty repair". I keep adding coolant and thinking eventually Ford will address this problem. They did cover my bad EGT sensor....
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Recently turned 100k and since have had my exhaust RTD's go out. While fixing that they found the back radiator leaking. Since then both batteries died which didn't surprise me at 40 months. Then my windshield washer started leaking, then my DEF heater went out and two days ago my AC quit. I was ready to buy a new 2015 but now not sure. I've contacted Ford customer service and they are getting with the dealer to see what they may cover but haven't heard anything back yet.
Mine is a 2011 with 105,000 on it. This is pretty frustrating. I have been very pleased with this truck up until now it has been very dependable. However when that dependability begins to go south at only 100k it brings to question what exactly are we paying for here? A heavy duty truck that costs upward of 60k should be one you can count on for a lot longer than that. How Ford approaches this with me is definitely going to have a direct bearing on which 2015 diesel truck is in my driveway in the next few months. Again let me say that i have been very pleased with this truck and FOMOCO in general.
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In April I replaced the radiator, hoses, water pump and Tstat. I used Mishimoto for the radiator and hoses (silicon). I am having trouble with the hoses leaking where they clamp to the radiator. I put 2 on the lower hose and that seemed to work. No other signs of leak on than drip from the top hose - factory clamp is on and tight as I can turn it - still lost a gallon in 2-3mo. Should I just get a new clamp? OEM stuff was not this prone to leaking ....
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After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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176,000 miles. Replaced heads and oil cooler approx 25,000 miles ago. Haven't had a lick of engine problems until today. Just got my '06 out of the shop getting new brakes and rear wheel bearings today. Drove to the store to grab something for dinner and it wouldn't start.
Checked my scangauge and only getting 350lbs HPO.
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Went in today and the Service advisor said the oil pan was leaking around the edge of the pan and one of the bolts. He stated he ordered a new oil pan and referred to it as a "new design". I asked him what the "new design" was and he had no idea. Didn't know if it was a metal pan like the newer trucks or if it was another plastic one. Looking for oil pan replacment by Ford and is it the newer metal one or another plastic one ??
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Took my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue. I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath. Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive. I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
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I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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I was just outside and noticed a little puddle under the front of the truck. I crowled under her to find orange coolant on the seam of the radiater right above the drain. I thought maybe the drain was open a little but no, it was tight. I have 40000 miles on the truck.
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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Removing the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
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Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
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This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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Looks like now the radiator in starting to seep a little between the core and the plastic sides. Couple questions. Whats the best replacement that wont cost a ton. Would this have anything to do with the intermittent not starting when warm.
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Just had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
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