Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Broken Fuse Box Clips?
Mar 3, 2017
Just picked up a new to me very nice 2011 F350 SWB 4X4 Lariat. While going through it and I missed this when buying it, the top of the under-hood fuse box was missing and just covered over by a makeshift cover of rubber and black duct tape.
I have ordered and received the the new fusebox cover ( what a bear to get into place ) and then figured out that the PO had broken the clips that lock it down.
I have tried to get a long zip-tie around it, not much luck, and now I get a C-clamp into there to keep it closed?
I really do not want to have to order a new fusebox and pull this one apart and rewire, that just screams electrical gremlins for the life of the truck.
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I just purchased a crashed 2011 F350 and trying to figure out why there is no power to the fuse box under the hood. I have power to the cab lights,cluster and so on but will not turn over. Checked the fuse box under the hood and seems to be not power to it. Is there a main fuse somewhere or what do you think??
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I was wanting a fuse digram for a 2011 f250 6.7. My right brake light is out and I don't have a way of knowing what fuses have to deal with the lights. If some one could tell the which ones or send me a diagram
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The truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
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Can I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
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Any luck reattaching tailgate end cap molding? Mine has a few broken tabs and is hanging on for dear life. But if I can reattach I would. I know I could drill a few holes and run in some self taping screws, but that would be quite ugly.
The tab(s) broke when lifting the heavy gate with the step closed one to many times. Using the left side now to close.
Part number 8C3Z9941018AA.
Item 2 in below image...
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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My old pipe to the heater core coming off the front cover was frozen in place, and long story short, the flange where the tube goes in with the o-ring broke.
I found part number 3C3Z-6608-B, which is the Motorcraft Front Cover kit and includes the LPOP and water pump, gaskets, seals, etc.
Another few hundred bucks and more time I don't have, but is that the right part? Is it possible to just get the cover? Considering the age of the motor, I'm OK with replacing all these parts, but money is getting a little thin at this point.
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Just got a look at my 03' 6.0 turbo at Ford dealer. Truck still had boost but a real bad noise that was hard to describe. Pulled codes but no turbo code like the last turbo's. All the vanes were fine & no rust on the unison ring BUT the turbo shaft was broken. 3rd turbo went at 13,700 miles in July 2005 & now have 47,700 miles. I know I should drive it more but at 75 & having sold my boat it does't get driven to much.
I use Stanadyne with every tank full & drive it hard at least once every week to give the turo a workout. Use only Motorcraft oil every 3500 miles. Broken shaft on turbo would move about a 1/4 " on one end & a 1/2" on the other end. Ford service said they have seen shafts break before but said it was nothing I did to cause it.
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Having a turbo shaft that broke? My 03 F250 turbo shaft was just replaced by the dealer, actually the whole turbo. This is the 4th turbo. Truck has 48000 miles on it. 1st 3 turbo's had sticking unison ring & vanes but this one had a broken shaft. Mechanic said unison ring & vanes were fine.
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When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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It appears the spring that keeps pressure on the handle has broken, now the console lid won't stay latched.
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I am looking for a fuse panel diagram for a 07 F350 6.0 ? The truck didn't have a owners manual in it and I have a couple things not working and testing each fuse is just more self hate than I can submit myself to today.
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I opened the hood today to install the Carbon Fiber logo and noticed that the plastic cover sitting on top of the radiator was loose. That's when I noticed that the 2 clips holding the plastic cover were broken.
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While diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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I have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
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