Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Vibration Noise When Brakes Applied
Aug 5, 2014
I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
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I ran about 500 miles today loaded up pretty good and noticed every bump I hit that was enough to rock the truck and trailer that there was a noise I've never heard before. It was like the difference between asphalt and concrete road surfaces, but was only present when the springs were sufficiently compressed. Temps were between -10 when I left to 10 or so above when I was destinated. Would that cause the noise?
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I have a 2012 FX4, 5.0. The dealer tuned the front rotors and replaced the pads at 19k because of a bad vibration when brakes were applied. Now at 45k, the same thing is starting to happen again. I am pretty sure it is not my driving because my 2001 F150 4x4 had 162,000 miles on it and never had a rotor off of it or turned and was on the 3rd set of pads when I traded it on the 2012.
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I had a friend install 18" rims with 35x12.5 tires on my new 2016 F-250 CC SWB that had 18" stock rims. They came off my 2002 Ford 7.3. There is a "creaking" noise coming out of the brake calipers when moving forward slowly with the brakes applied. This never happened with the tires/rims on my 7.3.
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My F-250 7.3 liter diesel is eating up front tires. I have tried new upper and lower ball joints, new shocks, alignment, and new tires (again). Tire wear is on the outside right and inside left. At times when the brakes are applied it causes a shake and vibration. One mechanic though I should get the leaf springs redone.
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2003 with 2005 motor, auto trans. After truck is warmed up and been driven a while I get a vibration/nice when stopped. Sometimes the Vibration changes with the brake peddle application. Is there a ps hose that can go bad internally on these? Anything else to look for. It's easy to hear/feel in the cab but can't hear it under the hood. Changed the ps fluid with no change.
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Black smoke is bad I think, especially when I push on the gas pedal, and I hear a bad whine or something that sounds like a very loud power steering pump whining.
I also have zero on the boost gauge. The truck barely pulls itself back home and black smoke is dribbling out of the exhaust pipe.
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Truck had been running with a bit of a skip and shuddered after throttle was applied and then stopped (would drop to 400 RPM and shake real bad). Had some misfire codes so I decided to do some digging. Where to start looking for air leaks pre upper fuel bowl?
YouTube.....
Also, does this mean the air has toasted my injectors?
YouTube.....
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Since day one my 2016 F250 occasionally has a reed sounding vibration at highways speeds near the passenger side occupant handle on the windshield pillar. Talked to a service advisor at the dealer about it, what it could be, so this must not be a common problem . The issue is intermittent and can not be reproduced on demand. I tried blowing compressed air all around the area of the Windshield to see if I could reproduce the sound in a shop setting, but no luck. Only thing in common with this noise is 75+ MPH during a rather windy day. I'm a little reluctant to drop it off at the dealer since intermittent problems are hard to diagnose.
YouTube...
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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2004 F250 6.0L!!
An issue I noticed right off the bat was that whenever I had the driver side turn signal on, and the brake was applied, the turn signal freezes.
I took apart the tail light and found a concoction of wires...I posted a diagram illustrating what it looks like.
There is this pesky Red wire that is spliced into the tail light bulb socket wire (specifically the green wire).
There is a trailer brake installed...if this means anything. I've tried disconnecting that with no luck on fixing the issue.
How to further troubleshoot would be great...electrical work is not my forte!
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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I bought a brand new 2010 Sonata in April 2010. So far I only have 2500 miles on it. The problems I am having are:
1. When I apply the brakes, there is some vibrating sounds coming...
2. The passenger side front tire does not hold air more than 25-26 psi.. If I raise it to 34 or even 32 psi, it drops down to 26 psi within a week and then stops leaking...
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I have a 99 escort zx2 with an A/T. I just recently redid the whole front end. Installed new struts, springs, mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends (inner and outer) wheel bearings and CV shafts. Got it aligned after all that work and now I have a vibration whenever I apply power, whether its upon acceleration or when I'm going up a hill. The vibration frequency increases with speed and feels more like a frame vibration than a steering vibration. Does not make any difference on turning or not. After I noticed the vibration I put my winter wheels on thinking maybe it was a misbalanced wheel but no change. And here is the kicker, if I jack the car up the vibration will go away for about 45 mins of driving time before it starts to fade back in. Checked all of my bolts for tightness and changed the CV shafts again. brought it to another shop who could not find the source. They double checked the alignment and its straight as can be. Could it possibly be a bad strut? I installed Monroe sensa-trac with all Monroe associated mounts and hardware.
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I just had the Local Ford dealer perform an oil change. I noticed the motor running a tad different almost right away but put it off thinking it was something else going on. well i get several miles down the road and anytime i accelerate there is a noticeable vibration and little power. I also noticed that both my water temp and EOT were above 200*. I called the dealer and of course the service department had gone home for the day. I will be calling first thing tomorrow morning.
My drive from work to the dealer is well over 20 miles and at 60-65 my water never got above 189 and the EOT never got above 195. so after oil change water temp got to 205 and EOT was at 215 at the max. This is with no load going 55 mph on the hwy. I have a Ford Premium warranty on the truck as well and this is why I decided to have them do the oil change. they have done the previous oil change as well with no issues.
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I have been chasing this vibration that seems to happen around 50 to 60 mph. It seems to be the last 2 gears in the transmission. It's not really a chatter, but more like a drive line vibration. At 70mph it goes away completely and is smooth as glass.
I have had the driveshaft rebuilt once, and just recently balanced. I am convinced it is not in the driveshaft. While it was being balanced the tech removed the harmonic balance r weight that was on the rear part of the shaft. Now the vibration seems magnified.
I was thinking it may be the clutch that is incorporated in the torque converter. Is there any way to disable the clutch just to see if it is the cause of the vibration? The truck had a lift and big tires on before I got it. It is now back to stock. It's a 2005 F250 crew cab short bed 170k miles.
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172k on the girl now. Getting a little vibration while driving yesterday. Looks like it's time for new U-joints, carrier bearing pinion seal. Thinking of going grease less again since these lasted 172k. What brand should I go with? Or should I install ones that are grease able?
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I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
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Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
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I don't think I've really noticed this before, but I filled up my 50 gallon Titan tank and added a full 32-ounce bottle of Power Service Diesel Kleen (treats "up to" 100 gallons) before hauling some stuff and running through that tank in a weekend. I didn't really intend to but wasn't paying enough attention and put at least 3/4 of the bottle in and said screw it and let it have the rest.
I don't know whether that has anything to do with it, but since then I've noticed at idle it seems to have kind of vibration at idle, like a low frequency buzz. At speed it appears to go away. It's not horrible or anything, just noticeable, made more so by a flashlight I had in the hard side pocket of the 4-cup center console buzzing against the plastic.
What could be causing it and how to treat it? Doesn't seem like something worth taking to the dealer even though I'm still a little under the 36k mile original warranty.
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