Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Engine Swap 2003 Into 2006?
Jul 22, 2017
Did the swap and all works good except the boost is often at 3psI then sometimes it works good. Used the 03 harness. So did I need to change a wire or sensor or use 03 pcm?? I was told maf sensor might cause issues but no codes for it.
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Need to know if you can mount a 04+ turbo on a 03 engine without changing the intake with the cross in the back ? Or does the intake have to be changed. If the intake does need to be changed will the egr need to be change as well ?
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I bought a 2011 F-450 with 205,000 Miles on it with a blow engine. Local shop installed a Ford NEW complete engine. Unfortunately we had Code P24A5 EGR Cooler Bypass Control Stuck after the swap. Truck drives fine just has CEL on. Goes to FORD and they test Vacuum from engine, on line, and on compents say all is good. Replace Vacuum switch and Control and neither fix it. Ford stumped and quits responding. So i go get my truck back since they wont respond and had it over 2 weeks.
I get it back and now it has Codes P04DA Closed Loop EGR AT Limit - Flow to high and P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor in Range but Lower than expected. I also have a P21BO for the reductant level sensor "C" Circuit High.
Since picking it up from Ford, Truck has almost no throttle until oil temperature warms up. I clear codes, truck runs good after warming up and no CEL comes on. Drove it for over an hour. Next key cycle, and CEL is on with all the above codes. Could something be hooked up wrong? Where to start?
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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From what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.
What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?
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Curious how it went and what additional hardware was needed.
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Bought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
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This may sound petty, but I would like to have the radio controls on the left side of the steering wheel of my 2012, instead of the cruise control. I guess the main question is how the wire harness is set up. Do the wiring can be re-routed to accommodate the switch?
Also, I want to smooth out the ride a tad so as to lessen the amount of griping from from the passenger seat. What is acceptable in lowering the tire pressure to allow a better ride without compromising tire wear? The factory specs are 65 psi. My truck is a 2012 fx4 Lariat with the 6.7
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I traded from a 2011 F-250 XLT recently with premium package to a 2015 F-350 Lariat, but the truck we found didn't come with a couple of the features that I loved in my last truck. I live in western Nebraska, and travel very regularly to western North Dakota and central Illinois for my business. The truck has 5200 miles (had the truck for 1 month ), but everything is still in great condition and would hope for the same in return.
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I recently bought a 1999 F250 Super Duty 4x4 7.3 Powerstroke MT with 280,000 miles. The reverse is out and after reading several posts am I to understand that any ZF6 well interchange in it or is it year specific. Guess what my question should read "What year vehicles well the transmission interchange and that there isn't any difference between trucks that run this motor with MT except for the powertrain, like F250 F250 super duty F350 and so on. The second question is how hard would it be to fix the reverse myself. I do have some mechanical experience. Except for the reverse, the trucks run perfectly.
This is my first diesel truck . I'm also confused because it has an adjustable gauge mounted on the bottom of the dash that you can select the performance from. I was told it has a performance chip and that's what that was for. I was told by the man I bought it from that the truck had been bullet proof but I don't know a thing about diesel upgrades or what to look for if it has. Except for reverse, everything works. Low high 2x4 & 4x4. Got it because he had to pay the bail bonds man. Guess I got a deal on it I was told.
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I picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
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I have a 06 f250 that has a coolant leak in the front of the engine. It's was leaking about a month ago replaced the water pump it stopped. Then about 2 weeks later it started back up again. It only happens when the engine is cold. But once it warms up it starts leaking again. I am confused as all get out on this.
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Ok, so I have read on this subject and there are lots of posts about this being normal but why? What causes this? I have recently owned two 6.0's and neither of them had black oil even when I changed the oil! My last 6.0 a 2006 had oil that was nearly the same color out of the drain plug as the oil I was putting in! Why this happens on the 6.7.
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The truck seems to be smoking a lot when I do start it then once I drive it for a second the smoke stops. The truck will not start after the engine gets hot..
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I have a 2006 f-250 6.0. About 2-ish months ago, it started revving up while I was parked and hooking up a trailer. It ended up needing an ICP sensor and pigtail wires. Was fine after that until around 10 days ago, it died when I was driving down the road and wouldn't start back up. That time it was the IPR. Got it back Friday, drove home (40 min) and didn't need to drive it until today. I fired it up, and we're back to the revving/surging. I decided not to take it on the road, really tired of being stranded. Could it be the icp again? Something else? I'm so tied of throwing money at this thing.
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I am looking for answers on a 2006 F250 with a 6.0, at a little over 200,000 miles. Currently I have taken it to two separate dealerships in the area with absolutely no results. The truck drives fine, starts fine, and for the most part, runs great. Except when it dies. It dies with no warning, at anytime. Warm, hot, cold, on the interstate, back road, driveway, where ever. It doesn't stutter, miss or signal, just quits running. Both dealerships have kept it for weeks, and driven it daily, and of course, then it never skips a beat. No codes have showed up that would cause the stall, and they are baffled.
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0 with edge juice with attitude
While driving first thing in the morning runs like a champ, as the engine warms up I start seeing the exhaust temps lower to 88-94, then I start getting over boost code with monitor reading of 41psi, then the Edge monitor screen will go blank, then the STALL... The excursion with start right back up but the shut off immediately. Wait 20-30 minutes in the shade and will start back up and run again poorly missing almost like turning the key off and back on... Then the next morning start all over again.
I'm thinking bad FICM or bad PMC over heating.. ??
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I'm curious to know if it is theoretically possible to (some-day) swap out the V8 gasoline engine w. a VW DIESEL/Turbo power plant. Are any of the VW Diesel engines directly compatible w. the V8 transmission, mounting brackets, electronics, etc. etc. The Glow Plug indicator in the dash, though not required for me, would be nice to have as a reminder.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 Diesel with 125,000 miles.
1st issue....When accelerating the fan comes on and it sounds like a jet engine taking off. Let off and it goes away! It acts like it does when you're towing something and put it under a load but you're not towing anything?
2nd issue...when towing a month ago hit a hill and totally lost power it was down to 25-30 miles an hour with it floored. Tranny gauge got up to about 3/4 but never any further. Let off pedal to try and get new gear and did not work, was like it was in a limp mode but never threw the wrench up. Finally got to top of hill and she cruised down other side just fine. No loss of power tranny back to normal. Then towed over weekend on flat land and tranny gauge went almost to overheat. Didn't seem to have power issue.
Since 1st tow issue it had 8 new injectors installed but hasn't seemed to change much. Fan issue was there before injectors and new injectors only, worked only with the cutting out it would do when cold and when driving in overdrive. Computer issue? Relays?
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So I've had my 2003 F-250 power stroke 6.0 for over a year now and replaced the oil with AMS oil which is good for 50,000 miles to a year as well as the oil filter which is guaranteed the same thing. I've only put 5,000 miles on it since I've owned it and made sure to let the engine heat up before going anywhere as well. Recently my engine bogged down and then had problems starting I was able to limp the last 2 miles to work but haven't been able to get it running since.
I replaced the camshaft position sensor and it fired up but once it was running it the rpm gauge dropped below 1000 RPMs it would stall out. Before it didn't have any smoke coming from the engine compartment however now when it starts it does. Is this because there's oil the possibly leaked onto something or fuel? What do I or should I look at to get it fixed?
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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