Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Wrench Light Comes On Initially / Click Under Dash And Cab Lights Go Off
Apr 12, 2016
2006 F-250 6.0l,Auto, 175,xxx mi
When I turn the key to on, I hear the vacuum pump cycle (passenger side fender), but don't hear the glow plugs or injectors cycle. Glow plug light comes on and stays on for 30secs. Wrench light comes on initially, but goes off after 3 secs, but then comes back on after about 8-10 seconds. When the wrench light comes on, I hear a click under the dash and my cab lights go off.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. If I jump the starter, engine turns over, but doesn't start. I have check numerous fuses, disconnected the fan clutch, tried moving the shifting lever to neutral, wiggled wires around the FICM/PCM/GPCM with no success.
I tried checking for DTC codes, but my scanner (300 reader) doesn't get any power. I have checked my light, it has power.
Twice before, the truck failed to start like this, but after removing & inspecting fuses/relays (all were good), it started back up. Also, occasionally the truck would stall, (just like someone turned the key off), but would start right backup. But when it stalled, the glow plug light would illuminate for a second,then go off.
Own truck for 8 months, replaced the batteries & injectors 6 months ago. Very light puff of smoke when starting up otherwise ran well when shut off.
How to proceed? My first diesel so I may need some extra details.
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Recently, we took a trip pulling our 5th wheel, even after suspecting another stuck unison ring, sticking turbo issue. When Climbing a gradual grade, we had the "wrench" light come on the dash. The truck seemed to go into the "limp" mode. I pulled over, let the turbo cool down for a minute, and then shut off the engine.
I let it sit for a minute, knowing we were on the freeway shoulder, restarted it without clearing any codes, and it started up without the wrench lit. No limp mode and continued home. I did this twice throughout the trip. I then tried to pull and OBD codes and found none such as a P0299. Seems like there should have been a code saved to evaluate the issue.
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This morning on my 15 min drive to work my wrench light came on. i don't get over 30mph the whole time. I tired to get the code before i shut the truck off with my sct livewire but it showed no codes with the light on. It didn't drive any different no loss of power. When i checked memory codes with our shops modis scanner nothing unusual came up besides the fuel circuit fault, which i know about the gauge cluster needs repaired every now and then i cant listen to the radio or roll down the windows.
All my numbers on my livewire looked normal. This is the first time it's come on since ive had the over boost issue fixed. What it could be. Kinda of a kick in the pants after i just saved myself a few hundred on wheel bearings and ball joints. Had a grinding noise at different speeds. Couldn't find anything lose on the front end but still had a grinding noise. Ended up being the exhaust shifted and was rubbing up against the frame.
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So I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 that broke down about 2 months ago due to an EGR failure. Took it to the dealership got it fixed along with a new injector everything has been running fine only thing I notice is a big split in EOT and fW(218 EOT and 192 fWT). Well yesterday on the way home my wrench light comes on I tried to scan it with the scan gauge but it said no codes found and when I got home and turned the truck off and back on the light went off. What could cause this?
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Today on the way home after about 45 min drive my wrench light came on but when I checked for codes on my sct I get no codes. Is that weird or common?
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6.0l oil cooler going - My wrench indicator light comes on every so often so I after about 40 min of highway driving. So I figured my oil cooler might be going out so here are my temps ....
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I have a problem when I have been on the road for about an hour or more the wrench light comes on. There is no change in how the truck runs, and when I run a systems check it says that all of my temps are good to go. The one think I have noticed that the next morning I have a small oil leak on the ground on the days that the wrench has come on. The egr valve was just cleaned. I am getting ready to make a trip across the country with a 10,000 lb trailer so I am a little worried about this. Can I take it in to a shop and have them get a code when the light isn't on? Also I am replacing all of the glow plugs this weekend but from what I have read it shouldn't have anything to do with the wrench light.
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I was sitting at a light and when it turned green I hit the gas pedal and had no response engine was idling perfect and a wrench light came on , I then shut off the truck restarted it and light was off hit the gas it came back on and it was intermittent with taking so I replaced the pedal and it is still doing it...
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The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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I have ran 05 f250 and the wrench light keeps coming on mostly when I'm doing highway driving or when I go to pass someone. iv putt code readers on it(autoparts store readers and the good expensive ones)and i keep getting bad egr and some other codes but when I have the truck looked at everything is prefect I had a flush done on the truck and and it still comes on randomly . Could the fact that it needs an oil change cause the light to come on intermittently or is something else going on??
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2007 f250 6.0 .... I just had the wrench light come on while driving on the hwy. wasn't towing, or hauling anything. Just traveling around 70mph for an hour or so. I didn't notice any change in power. Got to my destination and cut the engine off. Couldn't pull any codes with an OBD II scanner. When I started it up again, light was gone. Owner's manual points to electronic throttle control, not much else.
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I'm not near my stuff--is the battery cable terminal bolt 8mm?
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Powerstroke which i bought in May (My first truck and also my first diesel) that I am trying to diagnose a couple problems before it gets into the colder weather. One problem being that my glow plug/WTS light does not come on. What is the possible cause for this? My glow plugs and GPCM all work fine so if there's a bulb that would be out or where the problem would be? I'd like to have this light working before winter time for obvious reasons... and another light that doesn't work that I'd like to try and figure out is the brake light that should come on when you put on your emergency brake.
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Couple of weeks ago, the display in the instrument panel displayed a large orange wrench. No accompanying text or chimes, just the damn wrench. Checked for codes, nothing out of the ordinary (I occasionally get communication codes, but they usually show up when I do not wait to start). Long story short, the damn thing showed up one more time the same day, then never again.
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6.7 with 19k . Drove about 2 miles and noticed dash lights were flashing and ac was not working correctly . Pulled into garage shut off and truck wouldn't restart, no crank ! All my dash lights were flashing & dash was giving numerous messages.. At least I wasn't on my road trip 2 weeks ago! 3400 mile round trip. Truck was towed to dealer! My 6.0 never left me stranded & I had 3 of them..
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Simple question for the group as I learn about my new B.O.A.T 6.0 diesel.
What is that blue light left of the steering column yet on the dash?
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I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
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I have been trying to diagnose my truck for 2 weeks now. Truck basically died at light. Towed to a friends shop, had ficm low voltage and crank and cam codes. He replaced crank and cam sensors with aftermarket ones from his parts supplied. I also purchased a ficm, still no start. When i turn key I get a clicking under dash and cruise light flickers, it does flash it flickers. If I unplug ficm relay or icp it will stop and crank over.i am getting a weird random off and on ficm sync.as well as cam crank sync.
If I unplug icp it will start for about 30 seconds then dies and as i am watch ficm and cam sync,when it says no is when it dies. Key on Icp unplugged. Here is Icp plugged in you can see cruise light flickers and check engine goes on and off but this is when it will grind starter. I'm starting to think maybe the motor fires briefly and then dies and starter is trying to engage moving flywheel.
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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