Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Wrench Light Comes On Pulling Even A Light Load Up A Grade
May 6, 2015
The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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This morning on my 15 min drive to work my wrench light came on. i don't get over 30mph the whole time. I tired to get the code before i shut the truck off with my sct livewire but it showed no codes with the light on. It didn't drive any different no loss of power. When i checked memory codes with our shops modis scanner nothing unusual came up besides the fuel circuit fault, which i know about the gauge cluster needs repaired every now and then i cant listen to the radio or roll down the windows.
All my numbers on my livewire looked normal. This is the first time it's come on since ive had the over boost issue fixed. What it could be. Kinda of a kick in the pants after i just saved myself a few hundred on wheel bearings and ball joints. Had a grinding noise at different speeds. Couldn't find anything lose on the front end but still had a grinding noise. Ended up being the exhaust shifted and was rubbing up against the frame.
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So I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 that broke down about 2 months ago due to an EGR failure. Took it to the dealership got it fixed along with a new injector everything has been running fine only thing I notice is a big split in EOT and fW(218 EOT and 192 fWT). Well yesterday on the way home my wrench light comes on I tried to scan it with the scan gauge but it said no codes found and when I got home and turned the truck off and back on the light went off. What could cause this?
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Today on the way home after about 45 min drive my wrench light came on but when I checked for codes on my sct I get no codes. Is that weird or common?
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6.0l oil cooler going - My wrench indicator light comes on every so often so I after about 40 min of highway driving. So I figured my oil cooler might be going out so here are my temps ....
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I have a problem when I have been on the road for about an hour or more the wrench light comes on. There is no change in how the truck runs, and when I run a systems check it says that all of my temps are good to go. The one think I have noticed that the next morning I have a small oil leak on the ground on the days that the wrench has come on. The egr valve was just cleaned. I am getting ready to make a trip across the country with a 10,000 lb trailer so I am a little worried about this. Can I take it in to a shop and have them get a code when the light isn't on? Also I am replacing all of the glow plugs this weekend but from what I have read it shouldn't have anything to do with the wrench light.
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I was sitting at a light and when it turned green I hit the gas pedal and had no response engine was idling perfect and a wrench light came on , I then shut off the truck restarted it and light was off hit the gas it came back on and it was intermittent with taking so I replaced the pedal and it is still doing it...
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Recently, we took a trip pulling our 5th wheel, even after suspecting another stuck unison ring, sticking turbo issue. When Climbing a gradual grade, we had the "wrench" light come on the dash. The truck seemed to go into the "limp" mode. I pulled over, let the turbo cool down for a minute, and then shut off the engine.
I let it sit for a minute, knowing we were on the freeway shoulder, restarted it without clearing any codes, and it started up without the wrench lit. No limp mode and continued home. I did this twice throughout the trip. I then tried to pull and OBD codes and found none such as a P0299. Seems like there should have been a code saved to evaluate the issue.
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2006 F-250 6.0l,Auto, 175,xxx mi
When I turn the key to on, I hear the vacuum pump cycle (passenger side fender), but don't hear the glow plugs or injectors cycle. Glow plug light comes on and stays on for 30secs. Wrench light comes on initially, but goes off after 3 secs, but then comes back on after about 8-10 seconds. When the wrench light comes on, I hear a click under the dash and my cab lights go off.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. If I jump the starter, engine turns over, but doesn't start. I have check numerous fuses, disconnected the fan clutch, tried moving the shifting lever to neutral, wiggled wires around the FICM/PCM/GPCM with no success.
I tried checking for DTC codes, but my scanner (300 reader) doesn't get any power. I have checked my light, it has power.
Twice before, the truck failed to start like this, but after removing & inspecting fuses/relays (all were good), it started back up. Also, occasionally the truck would stall, (just like someone turned the key off), but would start right backup. But when it stalled, the glow plug light would illuminate for a second,then go off.
Own truck for 8 months, replaced the batteries & injectors 6 months ago. Very light puff of smoke when starting up otherwise ran well when shut off.
How to proceed? My first diesel so I may need some extra details.
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I have ran 05 f250 and the wrench light keeps coming on mostly when I'm doing highway driving or when I go to pass someone. iv putt code readers on it(autoparts store readers and the good expensive ones)and i keep getting bad egr and some other codes but when I have the truck looked at everything is prefect I had a flush done on the truck and and it still comes on randomly . Could the fact that it needs an oil change cause the light to come on intermittently or is something else going on??
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2007 f250 6.0 .... I just had the wrench light come on while driving on the hwy. wasn't towing, or hauling anything. Just traveling around 70mph for an hour or so. I didn't notice any change in power. Got to my destination and cut the engine off. Couldn't pull any codes with an OBD II scanner. When I started it up again, light was gone. Owner's manual points to electronic throttle control, not much else.
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After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
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I had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
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Every time I climb a grade, I get the 299 code. My VGTs go to 15 or 85. Does this indicate my turbo is sticking?
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I do not think, I have seen anything about the engine shutting down descending a steep grade. first it threw the "wrench" warning and than that the engine was going on limp mode. luckily no one was on the road with me, coming or going. i pulled off on the shoulder with part of the pickup and 5er on the road. no steering or brakes used the 5er brakes to stop. turned the key off and restarted it again and no code or warnings. like nothing happened. it happened twice today between yellowstone park and great falls, mt. the second time the engine light stayed on and i had to stop and turn it off and restart it and it went away.
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I'm not near my stuff--is the battery cable terminal bolt 8mm?
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I have a 2001 F350 with a PCM labeled "PMT2".
The SES light is triggered every time I try and pull fault codes using Torque Pro. It has done this since I installed Torque Pro many months ago. Same thing happens in another local member's (2000) truck, although I don't know his PCM version.
I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. I have been careful to choose conservative settings, including trying debug mode. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Torque Pro to see if that solves the problem - which it does not.
Question: "PMT2" PCM been able to pull fault codes using Torque Pro without tripping the SES light?
I realize another variable may be my OBD2 Bluetooth device. As an aside, I have removed the AIH and would expect to see a fault code but Torque Pro reports no fault codes.
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Couple of weeks ago, the display in the instrument panel displayed a large orange wrench. No accompanying text or chimes, just the damn wrench. Checked for codes, nothing out of the ordinary (I occasionally get communication codes, but they usually show up when I do not wait to start). Long story short, the damn thing showed up one more time the same day, then never again.
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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I connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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