Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Start When Turn The Key Once Warmed Up
Jul 22, 2015
In the morning, she starts great. Right up. And that's the least time she'll start until tomorrow's morning. Once in a while I'll turn the key and nothing happens, all of my lights are on like normal, but once I turn the key to start, absolutely nothing happens. Next morning, started right up. I can't leave her running everywhere I go. This is my first diesel, I just bought her with 265k miles, looks like she was well taken care of. But she doesn't like to start since the day after I bought her. New alternator because Ford told me, battery light doesn't come on, she still won't start once warm.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
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I have an '03 that misfires. The FICM was replaced around a year ago. FICM volts are at a steady 48. I recently change oil and used a Ford oil filter and cap with new o-ring. I also had the starter changed recently. It now spins over so fast, it reminds me of a gas engine without spark plugs! It starts up every time with no trouble, has plenty of acceleration, and seems to run great, except for the misfiring. It seems to misfire worse when warmed up.
I added some good diesel additive to the fuel, hoping that may work, but it did not. I've been doing some reading in different places and am thinking of disconnecting the ICP sensor and see if it works. I also am considering trying some RevX, or similar stiction additive, but from what I've read, stiction is a cold start and chugging problem, of which I have neither. I have a ScanGuageII with many of the X gauges programmed in, but I am not quite sure what direction I should go.
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I have 2005 Ford 6.0 turbo diesel. I replaced high pressure oil pump because it would die once it warmed up. Also replaced high pressure fuel rails and icp solenoid. Engine still dies when ect reaches 204 and eot reaches 235. Why it still dies?
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I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
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Truck is running bad when first cranked in the morning, is bucking and running rough until warmed up, think the oil needs to be changed and which additive is better the archoil or Rev x?
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2004 Excursion, won't start, just turns over. Pulled the cap off the fuel filter and it's filling fast so seems to be getting fuel. FICM replaced with a unit from Ed a year ago, along with a high output alternator, tests at 49 volts at key on, 48.5 cranking.
Truck started up fine last night, went for a drive with the family through Christmas lights. It has been running very rough at start and then smooths out after a few seconds. Went to start it up today and it just turns over, never fires. Unplugged the ICP on the passenger side valve cover and no improvement.
Pulled codes and had P0269, P0672, and P0676. Looks like a couple flow plug codes an injector contribution code.
What else can I check before pulling the valve covers?
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This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
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2003 with 2005 motor, auto trans. After truck is warmed up and been driven a while I get a vibration/nice when stopped. Sometimes the Vibration changes with the brake peddle application. Is there a ps hose that can go bad internally on these? Anything else to look for. It's easy to hear/feel in the cab but can't hear it under the hood. Changed the ps fluid with no change.
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I recently purchased a 2006 f350 with 6.0 power stroke. I drove it approx 15 miles shut the truck off, let it sit for approx 3 he's. Then I drove another 15 miles and shut it off. When I went back to it. To start it up would not start. The dealer said brand new injectors when I bought the truck. I tried to start it for approx ten min. I didn't want to bog down the battery. So when it wouldn't start I sprayed a shot of starting fluid and it took right off. But when you shut it off it won't start again.
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It would be nice if you could have the rear seat heaters come on with the remote start, but only when you knew you would want them on. Like tonight 5 of us are going out and it will be hours and in the 20's when we get back to the truck. Where I park in the lot is at the limit of the remote start so it is farther than I want to walk to manually turn them on (plus doesn't that defeat the purpose of remote start.)
I was hoping that if they were powered on when I shut the truck down, they may come on at restart but nope. I tried a few combos of truck running on remote, and with the key. Is there a secret way by chance?
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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Ok 2011 ford f350 6.7. Turn key on, no crank, no start. Trailer brake module failure flashes on the screen. If you leave the key on after 5 to 10 minutes the heater kicks on and you can start it. Runs down the road, hitting every pot hole for 1000 miles fine. Shut it off, try to immediately restart, same thing. If you hook up a booster box to it it starts. Replaced both batteries, cleaned cables. Scanned it, only codes are with the instrument panel : loss of communication with trailer brake module, with abs, with heat and air, and with parking aid modules. Tried to scan abs, parking aid, and brake, scanner would not communicate. When it is running communicates fine with them. Need a direction to go from here?
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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I am getting tired of my EGR valve plugging up and disabling my Excursion, I pulled the valve and installed an EGR plug. The valve is still plugged in and sitting on the intake.
After a couple of drive cycles the CEL came on for "low EGR flow".... yeah, you don't say.
Anyhow, what's the easiest way to turn this thing off? I don't want to crank up HP with a "tuner", but if that's what it takes. Can I turn off the CEL and retain the factory performance?
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Truck was running fine. Stopped and got fuel. Then crank truck and after about 15 secs it shut itself off. Now it WILL turn over but it is very slow and sounds "tight". 2004 f350 6.0 4x4 auto. I'm leaning towards torque converter.
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I have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
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I have a 2004 Ford f 350 superduty. Everything runs great. Now the other day my fan came on and stayed on for three days now. It goes with my rpm so when I am doing a 100 down the highway in hopes it will disengage but won't.. Everything is Stalk.
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My 05 F350 6.0 won't turn over with the key, everything comes on like normal but won't turn over. Starts fine with factory remote start. What to check?
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Had long start issues. Would turn over for 5 seconds - shut off- turn over for 5 seconds - shut off - third try on 4-5 seconds the low oil pressure would come up and HOP would fire injectors and start up.
Was not sure what was up, so look it to Ford. They did leak down test and found seal at the top of injector 4 was leaking. Replaced it and leak moved to other injector. Basically moving to the next weakest seal point. I told them to stop as i did not want to pay, parts, labour and shop time to replace all injectors, etc. They also said power across all injectors was good, but 3 & 7 were not contributing on cold start.
I drove it home and bought parts. New cups and seal for all 8 on fuel rail. New gasket kits for injectors. Plus 2 new injectors to replace 3 and 7.
Replaced injectors in 3 & 7 with the 2 remanufactured i bought. Replaced all cups and seals on fuel rails. So it has new injectors in 3, 4 & 7.
As for the other injectors i took the 5 of them right apart and cleaned them and re-assembled. Took about an hour per injector, took my time to get it right, just FYI. Went pretty good i thought. Seemed pretty straight forward actually.
Now no start - no high oil pressure at all. LOP comes up right away. Scanner shows no HOP no matter how long i crank it.
FICM power good, 47.5 - 48
shows FICM sync - YES
IPR sits at 14% and jumps to 84% on crank - starting, see photos below.
Scanner prior to crank
Scan during crank
Note zero IPC - PSI
Right now.... Got the valve cover off on passenger side. Cannot see oil squirting out the sides of any injectors, but line of sight is limited. Maybe need a small mirror to see in there. LOP comes up better than it has in years, but no HOP now. Before rebuild it seemed i had good HOP but low LOP.
I drove it home from Ford and into my garage, so i do not believe the HPOP crapped out sitting in the garage, so i am ruling that out as a fail, at this time.
Dummy plugs were replaced 5 years ago and o-rings looked decent.
Pulled the small plug screw at the top of the fuel rail. Cranked it until oil came out, bleeding air. then replaced the screw plug. Have not done that on drivers sideyet. Will try that tomorrow. However, think this is more than an air issue, as i have cranked it over plenty, unless i just have that much air.
Going to pull the valve cover on the Driver's side tomorrow. Then will have both covers off at same time to view all.
Noted that if i put compressed air into the screw hole on top of the fuel rail, i can hear air coming out from below the fuel rail. Nothing at the base or around injectors. Does not seem to be at the cups either.
Just wondering.... Buy applying air to those screw plug holes, is that the same as doing the air test at the sensor that pokes up through the valve cover.
With air pressure at these scew plugs on the fuel rail, should this be sealed and be air tight and hear no air leakage. Because it was not air tight on the drivers side before i closed that side up. I am curious about this.
I am assuming i still have a HOP leak. I do not think i have a failed HPOP. How to better chase a HOP leak?
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