Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Start - Voltage From 11.5 To 10.5 While Cranking?
Jan 29, 2017
Scangauge reads icp ok. Ipr ok. Fmp voltage is all over the place from 42 down to 2. Flp is also all over the place from 11 down to 2 volts. And no Sync. Load checked batteries well. Voltage is 11.5 down to 10.5 when cranking. Fuel good. No pre warning signs. Parked running good. I have read tones of forums but none with 3 issues. Could it be the relay?? Would a bad ficm show no sync on cranking?? Why is my flp voltage so up and down.
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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So I am getting low FICM volts at cold start. The FICM will start at 46v and eventually drop below to 42v, but when I start to drive the truck the FICM volts go back up to 47.5, and my battery voltage goes back up to 13.8 to 14.1.
I am pretty sure my alternator is doing its job.
I left my truck sit for 2 or 3 weeks with out starting her or putting a battery tender on it, this was about two weeks ago. I have not had this problem before. Sounds to me like the batteries need a charge.
My batteries back up to full charge. I plan on letting the truck sit over night with a charger hooked to it.
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Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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Had Just replaced glow plugs and batteries along with a new set of tires. Truck had been running fine for the three days that is was. Went out the next morning and went to start and "POP" a large noise came from under the hood. I have yet to discover where this noise particularly came from or what it may have been that caused it. But ever since the POP it will not turnover what so ever. Key on every thing is normal all power just when go to turn key over it makes a faint click. You can feel the click in the relays on your hand when you try to turnover. But nothing. I am absolutely clueless.
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This morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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I replaced injector couple weeks ago. I hooked up to livelink thru sct because it was throwing a low voltage for ficm code. It is staying at 48 volts tho. I don't see any voltage from my glow plug relay, and I have a low voltage for my egr valve. Is it just bad luck that everything broke at once or is there a fuse or a connector that I forgot to plug in.
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I'm afraid my FICM is on its way out. I'm getting voltages dropping to 46.5V about once a minute. Never goes below that. Then it'll bounce up to around 48.5. It gets low when I have to rev up and always coincides with the main voltage dropping to around 12.9V.
Now for my battery condition. They are about a year old. I think I have one with a bad cell. They'll drop into the low 11V range while cranking after glow plug light goes off. While driving, the main voltage never gets below 13.1 except for very short periods ... which coincide with the 46.5V output on the FICM. Gonna have them tested separately at advanced auto and see on has a bad cell.
So, is my FICM starting to go? Second question. What do I tell the folks at Advanced Auto about replacing both an not just one? I suspect they'll want to argue about it with me.
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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I spent a lot of time on the 7.3 forum, but I'm still new to the 6.0, so bear with me.
I've noticed that when I start my truck the battery voltage (as shown on SCT Livewire TS) often dips down to 11 or even 10.5 volts. The batteries are almost new, dated March 2016. When cruising down the highway voltage is about 12.7-13, sometimes a little higher. The alternator is also less than a year old
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At idle it stays at 48.5v-47.5v But as I pick up speed it continually drops. At 70mph it gets as low as 29v. But will go back up slowly as I let off the throttle.
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I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
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I've noticed on mornings when it's around freezing or colder my FICM voltage drops down to around 40. after about a minute it creeps up until it's in normal range, about 48 volts or better. This only seems to last about a minute before it's in normal range. No check engine lights though.
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Pulled the trigger today and bought a 2004 F350 DRW King Ranch with 200000 miles. Using Forscan Lite on my iPhone, KOEO FICM voltage was right at 48. During start it went up a bit. While out for my highway road test for EOT/ECT differential (never went above 10 degrees).
I noticed that the FICM voltage would drop to the bottom of the Forscan scale (40 volts) when I was accelerating and then go back to 47.5 when I reached my cruising speed. Is this normal?
Batteries are brand new from Ford. I didn't notice the battery voltage. Truck seems to run great to me, but this is my first 6.0. I also got DTC's for all 8 injectors saying Injector Circuit Low.
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My truck is a 2005 f350 6.0, all stock except for an egr delete and 4 inch cat back exhaust. I recently did an oil cooler replacement and egr delete, resealed all 8 injectors, and fixed some wire chaffing at the FICM. it's running great with the exception of idling. It seems like it's idling low but the gauge stays at 750. If I hit the high idle switch, it does fine. Red lights are stressful because it shakes and sounds like it's going to die but never does. I'm posting screenshots of my Torque pro.
I have a SC2 as well but I honestly like Torque better so that's what I use most. I know my ICP is low, but 8 don't know why. No oil in the connector, and no change when I unplug it. The ICP sensor may be a month old with 1000 miles on it. This was taken at a hot startup, sitting in park. When i say hot, I mean I had driven about 60 miles. This is sitting still in drive. ICP voltage finally climbs over 1.0 when i get going about 15mph at around 1250 rpm. The second pic the ICPV is actually higher than normal. It usually stays at .8 until I give it gas.
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Just a quick question but is it normal for the ICP voltage (ICV) to jump around a lot at idle or while cruising or accelerating? Started watching this pid and not sure what's normal and what's not.
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