Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Start After Replacing Head Gaskets
Oct 11, 2016
Ran fine, did the head gaskets ,egr delete, oil cooler and 12mm dummy plugs. Primed the fuel system, oil pressure looks good on the guage , spins fine but doesn't seem to be making any attempt at starting . Gave it a shot of quick start and it never so much as kicked. Everything looks good, nothing leaking and nothing obvious. To top it off we are without power after Hurricane Mathew left his mark.
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I have a 2006 6.0 that i did head gaskets on about a year ago. While I was in there I put some new pistons a valves in as well. I finished doing the job and it started and ran great just smoking a little bit. Test drove it a couple of times and still seemed great but still smoking. (white smoke) about a week went by with me driving the truck then one day driving to work I parked it then all of a sudden the truck shut off like some one hit the key and wouldn't restart after that. Either doesn't work i put a ficm in it before the head gaskets went out. new HPOP before head gaskets. I get oil pressure in the dash but it takes a long time to build up. cranks like a dream but doesn't even try to fire.
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If you have a blown head gasket on a 6.0, after the gaskets were removed would you be able to tell where the gasket failed?
Since the gaskets are metal or multilayer metal in some cases would you be unable to tell where the gasket failed or would it always be visible?
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I just had headgaskets (oem) studs, egr delete,oil cooler done on my 06 plus water pump cause the gasket blew. I have a sct livewire hooked up monitoring everything and tonight i noticed that the eot and ect's were way off. fully warmed up and rolling 65 Anywhere from 40*-50* out it was eot-156 and ect-172. Degas bottle was at the normal level.
I am also having issues with the fuel gauge. Every now and then the gauge will go to E and the miles to E will display ---. Turn the truck off and back on it works again. I am half assuming its the plug on the sending unit or the sending unit itself.
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I just pulled the cab and did headgaskets, studs. I put everything back together and when I turn the key, nothing, no lights, zero.
I've checked all connections and batteries are good, checked all fuses, where to start with this?
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So I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.
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Just bought a 2005 F250 PSD, got a smoking deal on it. It has 321k miles and has been very well taken care of however I do believe that it either needs a new oil cooler or has bad head gaskets. Pictured below you will see what the coolant looked like when I let the first batch lose. It does not seem foamy, which is interesting to me, however there is NO EGR to cause this soot.
About the truck:
- It was bulletproofed at 50k miles (EGR delete, ARP head studs, etc).
- There is no puking of coolant (drove it 100 miles from where I purchased it and nothing)
- When the truck is started you have to let it warm up for about 10 minutes,otherwise it seems to not have full power. (was going to reflash the ECU in hopes this repaired that problem).
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So I'll give a little history. Had blown head gaskets so I tackled that got it back together and now I can't get it to start. I have a monitor but it won't tell me if I have ficm sync. I have 1500 psi cop reading. I have spinning it over far 15 to 20 minutes. I'm using a bluetooth scanner and a app on my phone. I have no codes thrown or anything else. Do I keep cranking on it or am i missing something.
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The truck is a 2004 f250. Build date is 7/ 03 so its an early 04. I have been in a parking lot for 3 days now with no money trying to get this truck to start. Me and my dad replaced the ipr pigtail and the ipr thinking this might have been the problem, because the ipr pigtail had a damaged connector.
Before doing this work the icp sensor connector had no oil in it, now after replacing the ipr and cranking the engine the icp has some oil in the connector, could this cause a short and not let the truck start, and if so will unplugging the icp allow the truck to start?
We were having trouble with no starts before this happened and when it did all we had to was push the ground wire back further that goes back to the ficm and the truck would start, but that is not working anymore.
Is it possible the ipr is not seated properly or the new ipr is bad out of the box? Or maybe the made in tawain pigtail connector to the ipr is bad?
We are thinking it may be a short somewhere in the harness since everytime we pushed the ground to the ficm up further to where it grounds before when we had no start problems this might have took the short out of the ipr or icp pigtails and allowing the truck to start. Injectors are buzzing when key is turned and I can hear the fuel pump.
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I have a 2005 ford Excursion 6.0 with an EGR delete, bulletproofed beauty. I bought it about 8months ago and It ran great. I soon bought a 270amp DCpower alternator for it after the batteries died and then replaced the batteries. I eventually developed a no start when hot issue and decided to tear into it my self with everything I've learned on FTE! I love this site and most of you are like legends to me.... so I thought, how hard could this be?
So I bought that fancy icp pressure adapter for testing the pressure from the passenger side valve cover then found one that test pressure at the IPR port. So I went and bought that too 6 0L Powerstroke Specialist's Tool Kit Air Test Tool Ball Tube IPR Sockets | eBay and it lead me to multiple leaks on both sides of the oil rail.
I also bought the CTS2 insight and started monitoring things and realized I had more problems than I thought. I'm still learning how/what to look for and monitor. Anyhow, My EOT and ECT would sometimes be 30-40 Deg. apart. So knew I'd have to replace the oil cooler.
So here I am, I bought ALL ford OEM parts which were -- Oil cooler/standpipes/dummy plugs/ STC update/updated oil drain tubes/Coolant filter/bluespring kit/bango bolts/new degas bottle cap.
I put EVERYTHING in and was careful as can be. I located my leaks and it turned out to be the injector seals on #1 #2 and #5 injectors. The one on the top of the inside of the injectors. So then I bought all new ALIANT injector seal kits (all 8) might as well do them all while I'm in there. And put it back together. Still friggin leaked at injector 1 and 2. So I polished all the nipple cups and bought 8 new ALIANT seals for cups on the rail...STILL LEAKED (swear word).
After putting everything back together and taking it apart 6-7 times...I tried sticking the air directly into the injectors (#1,#2) using a rubber nipple and the injector spill ports were pissing out air. The rest of the injectors ports didn't leak at all except for #3 which was barely a leak.
So after some reading about this problem, I read that this "spill port" leak was normal and could be that the spools were probably closed so it was nothing to worry about. Or that's what I understood.
I put everything back together one more time and got ready for some "long cranking". I should mention I filled the oil valley from the filter housing (about a half a gallon) and cranked for 20sec...Waited 2 mins...cranked 20 sec...waited 2 mins.......continuously untill batteries went dead...then I recharged them and repeated...and recharged them and repeated...I knew It would take a long time but holy cow.
I used the CTS2 to watch my icp volts and it was 0.2 KOEO and while cranking. It didnt change. So I unplugged it. Now I have 1400psi. I tried using my other F350 ICP sensor and same thing. So Its not the sensor. Maybe the harness? So I unplugged the fcim and replugged it back in. Still wont start. I'm at my wits end with this and my wife is hating me for "trying to save money" and blocking the driveway for the last 9 days...
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My 2004 Excursion 6.0 4x4 is leaking oil around the gaskets. Does this usually just call for replacing the gaskets and is there anything that needs to be checked or upgraded while the engine is out? It looks like the engine needs to be taken totally out although I have heard it just has to be lifted a little.
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Ok I have a p1316 code so I was told to change valve cover gaskets so I did. Now starts for 4 sec and dies, what is going on....
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Truck was running a little rough before valve cover gasket replacement. Replaced gaskets and it ran rougher than before. Found a burned out spark plug coil and replaced coils, plugs, and wire. Runs smoothly now, but there's very, very low power, probably tops out at 35 mph. What gives?
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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So, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
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Truck is a 2006 F-350 6.0, ARP studs, Ford Head Gaskets, Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler Kit and EGR with an SCT tuner on tow mode.
Towing approx 15,000 pounds noticed truck started to lose power and misfire. Pulled over and noticed engine oil all over the driver side on engine, looks like it sprayed to top of engine as well. Oil on valve cover, FICM, exhaust manifold. I looked under the truck and saw that oil is all over bottom of the truck, differential covered in oil as well. Looks like blue smoke coming from tailpipe and smells of oil burning. Cannot tell where oil originated from.
I removed the EGR Valve, to see if there was moisture on the valve and when I looked into the intake manifold there is engine oil pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold and on the EGR Valve.
This is not dirty water from soot, it is oil. Truck is misfiring, with no codes being thrown. I noticed a small amount of white residue around the radiator cap however I had just filled up the reservoir, week prior. I unfortunately do not have gauges in the truck and rely on the factory gauges; coolant temps did not rise or move at all when this happened. I am not sure if I blew a head gasket, and really confused on how engine oil got into the intake manifold. I ran the engine with the air filter removed and can see blue smoke coming out of the CCV and oil in residue in front of the turbo inlet.
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I Have two questions on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
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Any head handy that they could measure for me (or head gasket)? Wondering what the dimensions of the head surface is.
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I have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?
Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?
Full Story here : [URL] ....
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Can you replace the passenger side up pipe without pulling the turbo, etc? My bellows blew out. Y-pipe is still ok. I've already deleted the EGR, so what's the best to put back? Go back to the original style or just put in a straight pipe? Where to get one?
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I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
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