Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Start After IPR Installation?
Mar 31, 2015
So I installed a new IPR valve. Now it cranks but wont turn over. I read something about how the IPR valve has to be 'clocked" in the same exact position it was in when I took it out? Would this cause my truck not to turn over? Truck has never not started before.
When I tightened it down, it was not in exact position as the old one. If I wanted it in exact position as old one, it would have not been tightened correctly. I couldn't make one more full turn around. what do u think???
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Installing the ford accessory dvd players for trucks? not sure if i want to get them just yet but i am looking into options since i have a sunroof and cannot install an overhead player..or can i? I just want to know what you have to do to install them? do they work good? does the leather match?
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Had a large puddle of coolant under my '05 X this afternoon after work. Seems it's leaking from the Y connection coming off the heater water control valve. See first pic.
I think it's part number 18472 (labeled with the circled 1) on left side in pic #2. Need to confirm this is the right part and the full part number?
Lastly, how the heck do you change this hose? It's tucked up under the cowl and looks like difficult.
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What is the least intrusive way to install an oil pressure gauge in these trucks and still maintain the input to the computer?
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I remember seeing a few people post about having them installed at the dealer for about 125-150 was this at the body shop or in the mechanic shop?
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I Have two questions on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
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Adding a coolant pressure gauge to truck? There are some expensive kits but considering I already have a gauge that would work, could I just buy a 5v sending unit for fuel pressure or oil pressure and have it work?
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I am sure some of use around the forums have seen some of Diesel Tech Ron's videos, well in this video he is installing one of Bulletproof Diesel's remote Oil Coolers on a 6.0
Bulletproof Diesel's remote mounted oil cooler install on a 6.0 Powerstroke - YouTube
I like the idea of these if you ever have to do any work on the Oil cooler or replace it it would make it pretty quick and you don't have top spend a day tearing the engine apart
I haven't hear of too many people having issues with remote coolers set up's like this. Maybe there are some remote oil coloer owners that have em that can shed some light on how they have worked so far on their 6.0's ...
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I'm getting pretty comfortable with these forums now. Not sure if this is in the right section, but even if it was, I'm not sure how to find the right one. I recently purchased Bullet Proof Diesel's Air-to-Oil oil cooler along with the BPD oil filtration. I've already drained the oil, but do I need to drain the coolant as well? I have read of people doing a complete flush before even installing a new oil cooler (OEM oil cooler). That way once it is installed, it doesn't have all the grit and sand pumping through it right off the bat. But does it matter with BPD's system? Should I go ahead and drain the coolant completely before beginning this job?
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I have a 2012 F350 CCLB with camper package (front coil springs @ 6,000 lbs). I was thinking of installing F550 coils springs, which are rated at 7,000 lbs, to provide greater lift up front.
Before performing this modification, what lift was achieved up front?
My endeavor is not to achieve level, per se, but rather allow for increased tire size, such as 35's and ground clearance.
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Anyways, so if replace an egt sensor how soon do I have to clear the code after install of a fresh sensor? Could I replace it in my garage and then head to autozone and borrow their scanner or do I need to do the replacement in their parking lot and do it right after the installation? It's my old mans truck and he doesn't have a scanner for his rig.
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I am a new owner of a 2006 F 250 6.0.
I need to install a new washer fluid pump. My question is what is the best way to get the old one off and the new one on? Should I go from under the wheel well? Or is there another easier way to get to it? The truck didn't come with an owners Manuel and I cant find anything about how to do this.
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My buddy install a BPD air/oil oil cooler in his 2003 F250 last week and now there is coolant pouring out the tail pipe. I haven't seen it but he tells me there is quite a bit coming out. It wasn't doing this before we installed the BPD oil cooler. Normally I would say bad EGR cooler but his EGR is deleted. This is the 3rd BPD cooler I've put in and this is the first time I've had any issues after the install. The install went smooth other than we broke the radiator and had to install a new one. I feel bad cause I'm hoping it wasn't something I caused but I just can't think of anything I did during this install that would cause coolant to be getting into the exhaust. He just had it towed to the local Ford dealership.
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I've been looking for a remote start system to install on my truck it has no remotes of any kind now. I've been googling most of the day and i can't seem to find anything except something that hooks to a edge tuner of some kind.
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Had long start issues. Would turn over for 5 seconds - shut off- turn over for 5 seconds - shut off - third try on 4-5 seconds the low oil pressure would come up and HOP would fire injectors and start up.
Was not sure what was up, so look it to Ford. They did leak down test and found seal at the top of injector 4 was leaking. Replaced it and leak moved to other injector. Basically moving to the next weakest seal point. I told them to stop as i did not want to pay, parts, labour and shop time to replace all injectors, etc. They also said power across all injectors was good, but 3 & 7 were not contributing on cold start.
I drove it home and bought parts. New cups and seal for all 8 on fuel rail. New gasket kits for injectors. Plus 2 new injectors to replace 3 and 7.
Replaced injectors in 3 & 7 with the 2 remanufactured i bought. Replaced all cups and seals on fuel rails. So it has new injectors in 3, 4 & 7.
As for the other injectors i took the 5 of them right apart and cleaned them and re-assembled. Took about an hour per injector, took my time to get it right, just FYI. Went pretty good i thought. Seemed pretty straight forward actually.
Now no start - no high oil pressure at all. LOP comes up right away. Scanner shows no HOP no matter how long i crank it.
FICM power good, 47.5 - 48
shows FICM sync - YES
IPR sits at 14% and jumps to 84% on crank - starting, see photos below.
Scanner prior to crank
Scan during crank
Note zero IPC - PSI
Right now.... Got the valve cover off on passenger side. Cannot see oil squirting out the sides of any injectors, but line of sight is limited. Maybe need a small mirror to see in there. LOP comes up better than it has in years, but no HOP now. Before rebuild it seemed i had good HOP but low LOP.
I drove it home from Ford and into my garage, so i do not believe the HPOP crapped out sitting in the garage, so i am ruling that out as a fail, at this time.
Dummy plugs were replaced 5 years ago and o-rings looked decent.
Pulled the small plug screw at the top of the fuel rail. Cranked it until oil came out, bleeding air. then replaced the screw plug. Have not done that on drivers sideyet. Will try that tomorrow. However, think this is more than an air issue, as i have cranked it over plenty, unless i just have that much air.
Going to pull the valve cover on the Driver's side tomorrow. Then will have both covers off at same time to view all.
Noted that if i put compressed air into the screw hole on top of the fuel rail, i can hear air coming out from below the fuel rail. Nothing at the base or around injectors. Does not seem to be at the cups either.
Just wondering.... Buy applying air to those screw plug holes, is that the same as doing the air test at the sensor that pokes up through the valve cover.
With air pressure at these scew plugs on the fuel rail, should this be sealed and be air tight and hear no air leakage. Because it was not air tight on the drivers side before i closed that side up. I am curious about this.
I am assuming i still have a HOP leak. I do not think i have a failed HPOP. How to better chase a HOP leak?
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
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I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
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Long story behind it but finally got my scanner working right and checked the suggested systems for p2290.
IPR was 77+ on start up dropped to around 31 at idle
FMP is in the 46.5 to 47.5 range
SYC was at 1 and occasionally at 1.5
ICP was at 550-650 during startup and quickly ramped up to 1150 then settled into around 850 at idle.
The only thing that I'm not sure of is the IPR being 31 at idle, is that what it should be. The others I think are within normal operating parameters.
The truck starts but has no power. Can barely go up a slight hill on my street. Seems like it's going to be fine but as soon as I apply a little gas it just falls off.
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