Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Crank Sometimes But Cranked Right Up If Use The Yellow / Blue Wire
Feb 12, 2015
About a month ago my 2005 Ford Excursion 6.0 wouldn't crank. Everything came on fine and there was no sign of a problem. when I tried to crank it nothing happened. I read about the yellow/blue wire on the passenger side and tried that. It cranked right up, and then worked fine with the key. No other problems until today. Same thing happened again. What could this be?
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Came out of the building center yesterday after about ten minutes, and the van wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked.
So I fired up Torque Pro and the HPO only got to 156.8psi. The idiot gauge came up to where it should be.
The dipstick looks good. I unhooked the ICP sensor and still no go. Reconnected.....
So I called a tow... after It cooled down.(75*F water) I tried again and got up to 295psi, but still not enough to start.
At this point I know I have recent injectors and updated Plug& pipe on the passenger side, a new IPR, and (another) new STC fitting.
I will get the air to it, and investigate, but at this point,I am leaning towards the Dummy Plug on the drivers side. Or maybe I am just hopeful because the internet says that one can remove the VC on that side fairly easily.....(Van Body)
However I did recently(2K miles/??) have the engine apart to get at the HPOP and STC leak issue I had. In the event of a possible stuck IPR- what would be the symptoms during an air test? No change with power applied? Or should I just remove and inspect?
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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My truck will only stay cranked a few seconds then dies, I have a lot of codes popping up! I was told may be the FICM.
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My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
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Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
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Simple question for the group as I learn about my new B.O.A.T 6.0 diesel.
What is that blue light left of the steering column yet on the dash?
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two days ago i noticed First start in the morning the truck billows out blue smoke. In mean is enough that looks like an old 2 stroke dirt bike. Quite alarming. I've had HHS in for 4300 miles or so. I hope I did not mess the engine up by towing With the HHS in there. The injectors have been getting loud an indication that i need to change the oil again. The truck always gets louder when nearing oil change time. It reminds me of an old chevy with bad valve seals. Would turbo seals just go. The smoke goes away after driving maybe 2 min well i can't see it while driving. Truck runs smooth doesn't stutter or miss. It has been acting like the stiction is happening upon first starting after sitting for 6+ hours.
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I noticed a few puffs of blue smoke a while back as well as oil at the seam of the exhaust tubing. I attributed it to bad turbo oil seals and proceeded to rebuild the turbo. Changed oil at the same time from T6 to T5, 15-40. The blue smoke is quite a bit less, but still shows at idle and not all the time.
First start up of the day, slight haze. I leave the house when the oil temp gets above 100 and drive easy until it gets to 160. I will get a pretty good train of smoke until the oil temp gets above 180 at every stop while I'm idling. When the oil temp gets above 180, it will only smoke every 3rd or 4th stop at idle. If I hold the brake and get the RPM's over 1,000, the smoke dramatically decreases, if not completely dissipates.
I do have the CCV rerouted and am wondering if it is affecting the operation of the engine.
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So I recently had the head gaskets done at Ford. All is good but there is a slight drip from the blue EGR hose. It made a 3" circle on the driveway after 8 days. Coolant level is still fine. I really don't feel like dropping it back at Ford. Think I can just twist the hose to tighten it a bit or is a new hose in order? It is only 2 yrs old and was not replaced with the head gasket work.
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2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
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So what is this wire that runs down by the engine? When doing my a/c evaporator I noticed it is melted by the exhaust and nearly seperated.
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I have a 04 f350 with 175k on it. At around 160k it had new head gaskets, 2-reman heads, egr delete, new oil cooler and it is studded and tuned with SCT and custom tunes.
Since after the head gasket change it seemed to have started blowing a little smoke on the cold starts mainly. In cold weather the starts seem to be harder or slower also. Now for the last 6k-8k miles there is a little smoke at a cold start. But if the motor is warm and it sits for a bit maybe 10 min or less it blows a nice puff of blue smoke or burnt oil.
The smell of burnt oil is mainly on hot starts not cold starts. It does not burn oil running. It will dump some black smoke under acceleration or load. Could this be an injector problem? Or something else? Can't figure it out.
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My 04 6.0h started puffing bluish colored smoke typically only when I was accelerating. After a short amount of time I noticed it was smoking quite a bit when cold and until it had fully warmed up. I took it to the repair shop and they pulled it apart saying the turbo seal had failed and the turbo was full of oil. I purchased a new Garret PowerMax and had it put it in.
I picked up my truck and of course it was still smoking when cold. After it warmed up nothing, just like before. Since I just put a new turbo in I am worried this one will be ruined as well since the same condition exist. My mechanic said I need to run the truck for few days before the oil would get cleared out which had accumulated in the system. Am I mistaken in thinking that if it was residual oil burning that it would be more likely to do smoke when warm as opposed to when cold?
Since the turbo and seal have now been replaced what else should I look for to cure my blue smoke blues?
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Replaced stock turbo on my 04 f350 zf6 with a newer stock turbo from an 05 6.0 excursion with a wicked wheel. Truck never smoked before ever for any reason. Now with the new turbo the truck puffs out white and blue smoke when turbo is spooling up in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear but once turbo is spoiled up no smoke at all. 4th and 5th no smoke at all. What could be my issue? Truck runs great no sputtering or missing or anything. I rebuilt injectors about two months ago so those are good.
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05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
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2012 F350 Lariat - want to install cab lights. Can't locate correct wire to tap for power. I want to use the same power that powers the parking lights so these come on as they should. Is the best connect on the driver or passenger side, and what color wire is it? I've read yellow with green stripe (and found about 4 of them) and a brown wire I couldn't find.
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2004 f250 6.0, 173k miles. I just had the head studs done and a new head due to a crack in one head, I got it back 3 days ago and she was running great. I towed my landscape trailer yesterday full of mulch and only went about 5 miles with the load, after the job driving to another one I noticed it sounded like it was missing at idle with a small amount of white smoke. Drove it home let it sit overnight, started it up this morning and a cloud of white/ blue smoke and a horrible rough idle. Smoke does not stop.
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My tailgate emblem has lost the blue color. Is this a common problem? Is it easy to replace the emblem?
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