Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: While Cruising At Different High Speeds Jerks - EGR Valve Symptom?
Feb 5, 2017
,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
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Me and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
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Shes a rocket at low speeds but at speeds above 50-60 acceleration is slow. How can you boost it? Bigger turbo? Better injectors? Rpms aren't maxed, it just seems sluggish...
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Your breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
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I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.
I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.
Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip
Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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Still chasing a surge for some time while cold, mainly. While hot and cruising 65 mph the turbo still surges faintly.. but today was a different story, very fast and high surging from the turbo only, while on overdrive as usual. It calmed down as i dropped the boost a bit but it was quick swings of about 3-5 psi which is quite bad for what it had been doing which was manageable.
Short of taking off the turbo, I took out the VGT solenoid and it had some oil burnt on the end, cleaned that up and pushed the plunger in all the way a few times and it 'seemed' to have worked greatly, until today.
I pulled some other numbers;
KOEO
Map 13.7
EBP 14.1
Baro 28.2
Cold Idle
Map 14.0
EBP 16.5
Baro 28.2
When cold, mainly below 130F the RPM gauge itself will surge or hesitate around 1700-2000 RPM. Any higher or lower it will be smoother I suppose....
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Trans has new solenoids in the trans but is shifting too firm sometimes from 1-2 or 2-3.. It is tolerable going up, but when slowing down it jerks really bad from 2-1. Sounds and feels horrible for the trans and miserable during stop and go traffic. Ive had to switch it to Manual and start off in 2nd gear. Im deleted, with intake, and a custom sct x4 tune. My main question is there any way a new tune could have better shift points?
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I have a 2004 F250 early build over 260K miles on it. After taking a trip out west Texas and back I noticed my truck starts to jerk a lot around the 50 to 60 mph range under moderate throttle. Getting a contribution code on #6. FICM voltage stays over 47v during KOEO and startup. Took an inferred thermometer and even after truck is at operating temp #6 is reading about 3 degrees cooler then the others.
When cranking the engine everything sounds smooth but startups are getting harder. Usually let it idle for a few minutes before taking off on cold start but I am having to let it warm up longer before I can get any power. Did a bubble test and passed and oil level hasnt changed. Fuel mileage has been sucking bad also. Safe to assume the injector is shot and needs replaced? Use Delo 5W-40 Syn every change with motorcraft filters.
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OK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
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I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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Just a quick question but is it normal for the ICP voltage (ICV) to jump around a lot at idle or while cruising or accelerating? Started watching this pid and not sure what's normal and what's not.
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Last week my 2011 KR Diesel with 85k on it stopped downshifting correctly. Basically when the transmission is cold (<150 degrees on the digital gauge for transmission fluid) it jerks everytime it shifts down from 4->3->2->1. Especially 3->2 and 2->1. I have never seen anything like this before. It's almost if you are getting reared ended when it shifts.
If I let it warm up it eventually goes away until it cools down again. I did take into the dealer and they said that a) there is definitely something wrong with the torque converter and b) I might actually need a new transmission which is anywhere between 4-7k depending on if its a reman or new.
This truck is barely broken in and I at this point have not towed a single thing with it. I had thought the transmission was covered up to 100k but it looks like it's only covered to 60 or 75k (I forgot which).
I've opened up a case with Ford but they kicked it back to the dealer. The dealer service manager has been really NICE and is definitely on my side that this SHOULD HAVE NEVER HAPPENED at this mileage. They also don't know how to fix it without pulling apart everything which is a lot of labor.
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I just got a 2006 ford F250 lariat fx4,and it's already at the shop.. when cold start it has some white smoke, but once I get up to highway speeds the truck jerks and bucks. turbo is putting out normal boost. I've changed oil and filters along with fuel filters. also put on a new serpentine belt and pulley, air filter and have everything cleaned real good. the truck is acting like it's starving for fuel. FICM or injectors ?
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So I've been chasing a problem in my 07 6.0 for about 6 months now I had just changed the oil cooler and a week later was driving home and she quit a mile from my house I have since then changed the cmp sensor the alternator 3 injectors all the o-rings in the nipples of my oil rail both down tubes in the oil rail and the IPR valve most resently and last night I hooked it up to me auto engenuity scanner and the IPR valve is still not closing it stay at 14.84% the whole time I'm cranking. The only code I'm running is cmp sensor low a cuircut or something like that I can't remember the number.
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From what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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My friend attended a powerstroke diesel class last week. During the class the person doing it mentioned that if you are going to do a EGR delete on a 6.0 you need to install a blow off valve. He said that the 6.0 will open the EGR valve if you over boost and since you deleted the EGR it will lift the heads. He said that the unision ring wears out which will cause the truck to over boost causing the over boost situation.
EGR deleted but possible problems later? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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What this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
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My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
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I have had my truck for 13k miles and have been working through all the to-do items. Monday my FICM went dead, I got a replacement with 2 new batteries (ALT was ok 140 amp). Today I pulled the EGR valve for cleaning and noticed it was very moist but pretty clean. I looked down inside the intake and notice it was oily/wet. Is this a leaking EGR cooler issue or could the FICM going bad have something to do with it as well?
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As far as I can tell, the rectangular breather is full of some type of stainless mesh. I cannot separate the halves. I may have pulled a bonehead move and left it tin the solvent tank and didn't realize it was still on....ofcourse it was full of solvent. Just cleaned it real well. I drained it and am going to let it dry out before install next week.
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