Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: When Turn The Key Clicking Under Dash And Cruise Light Flickers
Dec 15, 2015
I have been trying to diagnose my truck for 2 weeks now. Truck basically died at light. Towed to a friends shop, had ficm low voltage and crank and cam codes. He replaced crank and cam sensors with aftermarket ones from his parts supplied. I also purchased a ficm, still no start. When i turn key I get a clicking under dash and cruise light flickers, it does flash it flickers. If I unplug ficm relay or icp it will stop and crank over.i am getting a weird random off and on ficm sync.as well as cam crank sync.
If I unplug icp it will start for about 30 seconds then dies and as i am watch ficm and cam sync,when it says no is when it dies. Key on Icp unplugged. Here is Icp plugged in you can see cruise light flickers and check engine goes on and off but this is when it will grind starter. I'm starting to think maybe the motor fires briefly and then dies and starter is trying to engage moving flywheel.
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Car won't start this morning. Put the key in, turn it, and all the dash lights come on but the MPD flickers in sync a rapid clicking noise and I get an "Airbag Error" on the display. Lights, fans, etc work. This has to be tied to the fact that I totally blanked after going out to close my windows and left the keys in the ignition for approximately five hours. The key was in the ACC position, so I assume that led to battery drain on a battery approximately three years old. I've got a trickle charger on it now.
Just figured I'd check here verify that these batteries are not too temperamental/delicate for use with a trickle charger. Also to see if the general opinion is that running the car will recharge the battery or if I should just head out and replace it since three years seems to be the life of these batteries based on what I've read.
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I was driving home last night on the freeway going about 80 and i noticed my 4x4 light was flickering on and off really sporadically. acting like there was a short or something.... What would cause this or where to start.
I have used the 4x4 recently, actually Saturday night and it worked fine. light worked fine, everything was OK at that point.
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I have an odd issue, 2003 7.3L f250 ... My battery light flickers on and off, I had the alternator tested at a alt rebuild sale place here locally, I don't always trust the auto zone techs, also had the batteries tested at interstate batteries. both batteries good, alternator good.
I think my connector is bad on my alt, not the one that goes to the battery, output is 13.8 to 14.1 btw......there is another connector that is a PITA to get off. I think it is bad, I played with it and applied some dielectric grease had the light go out when I wiggled it.
Can just the connector be replaced?
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Simple question for the group as I learn about my new B.O.A.T 6.0 diesel.
What is that blue light left of the steering column yet on the dash?
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Recently, we took a trip pulling our 5th wheel, even after suspecting another stuck unison ring, sticking turbo issue. When Climbing a gradual grade, we had the "wrench" light come on the dash. The truck seemed to go into the "limp" mode. I pulled over, let the turbo cool down for a minute, and then shut off the engine.
I let it sit for a minute, knowing we were on the freeway shoulder, restarted it without clearing any codes, and it started up without the wrench lit. No limp mode and continued home. I did this twice throughout the trip. I then tried to pull and OBD codes and found none such as a P0299. Seems like there should have been a code saved to evaluate the issue.
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I have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
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2006 F-250 6.0l,Auto, 175,xxx mi
When I turn the key to on, I hear the vacuum pump cycle (passenger side fender), but don't hear the glow plugs or injectors cycle. Glow plug light comes on and stays on for 30secs. Wrench light comes on initially, but goes off after 3 secs, but then comes back on after about 8-10 seconds. When the wrench light comes on, I hear a click under the dash and my cab lights go off.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. If I jump the starter, engine turns over, but doesn't start. I have check numerous fuses, disconnected the fan clutch, tried moving the shifting lever to neutral, wiggled wires around the FICM/PCM/GPCM with no success.
I tried checking for DTC codes, but my scanner (300 reader) doesn't get any power. I have checked my light, it has power.
Twice before, the truck failed to start like this, but after removing & inspecting fuses/relays (all were good), it started back up. Also, occasionally the truck would stall, (just like someone turned the key off), but would start right backup. But when it stalled, the glow plug light would illuminate for a second,then go off.
Own truck for 8 months, replaced the batteries & injectors 6 months ago. Very light puff of smoke when starting up otherwise ran well when shut off.
How to proceed? My first diesel so I may need some extra details.
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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Can't figure out how to turn on dome light, so I broke down and did the un-thinkable, I read the manual.... from page 66
Press and hold the top of the control to the full on position to activate the "dome on" feature. This will turn on the interior courtesy lights. The lights will remain on until the bottom of the control is pressed.
[URL] ......
And no luck. Can hold the button down for a long, long time. The dimmer function works OK so the buttons are working. I would like to be able to turn on the rear light so my kids can buckle themselves.
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If doing a EGR delete on a early 2004 6.0 will turn on the check engine light? I was going to leave the valve in place and harness connected, I was just looking to add durability to the truck so don't want to use a tuner but also don't want the engine light on, I seen conflicting reports that it may or may not turn on the light!
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While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
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I had a nice level straight stretch in front of me and engaged the cruise control. No go! I tried a few more times and it still did not engage, even with various button sequences. My thought was that this truck is a computer on wheels. So at the next opportunity I stopped and shutdown the engine, turned the ignition switch OFF and then restarted started the engine (and rebooted the computer). The cruise control works fine!
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I have a 6.7 diesel extcab longbed 4wd with the 3.31 rearend. I have been experiencing a surge primarily told by the boost gauge when using the cruise control unloaded and either or both going up a steady climb in elevation or headwind. It does not surge if I shift down to 5th. Does not occur pulling a load. Still occurs in manual mode and tow-haul mode. Does not occur if your controlling throttle with your foot. I find that it happens at speed of 65-70. It will boost to about 10 pounds then fall to about 3 and will continue this until maybe a hill or change in direction. It does not occur with a tail wind. I took it to the dealer today and ford had a new flash for the pcm and the tcm. Hoping that this would fix it but I don't believe it did.
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Just looking for comments on using the cruise control while towing? and what's the recommended weight for using the tow haul mode. The enclosed trailer I have is about 3300 lbs. taking it across the country empty. 2004 6 liter.
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I haven't been on for a while, but I'm trying to figure out if I have a slight turbo issue.
Turbo pulsing ? I am experiencing this, it just started about 3 months ago. First time it did it, I thought the truck was going into exhaust cleaning mode. Not the case. It doesn't do it with the cruise off, but with the cruise on it's like it can't decide if it needs boost or not.
Boost is pulsing between about 2-3 psi to 10 psi. No check engine light on to speak of. Now that I'm thinking about it. I think the turbo is falling flat with the motor cold too, or maybe it's a cold tranny..... gotta watch that closer.
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So the PO tells me he was flying down the highway and went to cancel his cruise control and it wouldn't turn off. He claims he made it to the shoulder of the highway and killed the ignition. When he restarted the truck is was turned off and it hasn't been used since. I tried to use it yesterday but couldn't get it to work?
So I do the search and find out that the deactivation switch is most likely the issue. I just picked up a new one today and was curious if it is just a R & R thing or if it needs to be bleed off or something? Is there a need to test it or just change it out? Sound like something that would cause these issues?
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My cruise control stopped working today on my trip back from Yosemite. Tried looking through the owners manual, but apparently it doesnt have its own fuse. Everything else seems to work just fine, so I am gonna start there.
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I have been trying to figure my cruise control not working. I verified the switch for the brake pedal and the one on the master cylinder are not the problem. I have read about the clock spring but would like to verify signal is passing through/ not before replacing.
2 Questions.
#1 I have is how does the overall system work? Ok not that in depth but, is there some kind of servo that regulates the flow to,the injectors or is it strictly controlled by the PCM? and it tell the injectors to open to allow fuel to pass.
#2 Looking for a wiring diagram for the cruise control control circuit. Namely looking to verify switches are working.
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I was wondering about same turbo problems that I'm having? When running in cruze only at 55-60mph the turbo will surge from 2-12 psi up and down repeatedly. It sometimes will level out for a couple seconds and then continues to do it. I had it to the dealer and the service manager drove it and said it seems like it's searching for something, but since there was nothing from ford about it he couldn't do anything about it. There was an update for a prior serial number but my truck has the current software. What kind of damage is this going to do. It sucks because alot of my driving is at this speed.
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