172k on the girl now. Getting a little vibration while driving yesterday. Looks like it's time for new U-joints, carrier bearing pinion seal. Thinking of going grease less again since these lasted 172k. What brand should I go with? Or should I install ones that are grease able?
View 1 RepliesI've mentioned in the recent passed a vibration I have and thinking it may be one of my hub bearings. Now I really can't tell if it's that or something else as it feels like powertrain when accelerating but at speed feels like I'm driving on gravel?? The vibration is a tight one if that makes sense..it's bugging me to death.
View 14 RepliesTrying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
I just had the Local Ford dealer perform an oil change. I noticed the motor running a tad different almost right away but put it off thinking it was something else going on. well i get several miles down the road and anytime i accelerate there is a noticeable vibration and little power. I also noticed that both my water temp and EOT were above 200*. I called the dealer and of course the service department had gone home for the day. I will be calling first thing tomorrow morning.
My drive from work to the dealer is well over 20 miles and at 60-65 my water never got above 189 and the EOT never got above 195. so after oil change water temp got to 205 and EOT was at 215 at the max. This is with no load going 55 mph on the hwy. I have a Ford Premium warranty on the truck as well and this is why I decided to have them do the oil change. they have done the previous oil change as well with no issues.
I have been chasing this vibration that seems to happen around 50 to 60 mph. It seems to be the last 2 gears in the transmission. It's not really a chatter, but more like a drive line vibration. At 70mph it goes away completely and is smooth as glass.
I have had the driveshaft rebuilt once, and just recently balanced. I am convinced it is not in the driveshaft. While it was being balanced the tech removed the harmonic balance r weight that was on the rear part of the shaft. Now the vibration seems magnified.
I was thinking it may be the clutch that is incorporated in the torque converter. Is there any way to disable the clutch just to see if it is the cause of the vibration? The truck had a lift and big tires on before I got it. It is now back to stock. It's a 2005 F250 crew cab short bed 170k miles.
Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
View 2 RepliesI don't think I've really noticed this before, but I filled up my 50 gallon Titan tank and added a full 32-ounce bottle of Power Service Diesel Kleen (treats "up to" 100 gallons) before hauling some stuff and running through that tank in a weekend. I didn't really intend to but wasn't paying enough attention and put at least 3/4 of the bottle in and said screw it and let it have the rest.
I don't know whether that has anything to do with it, but since then I've noticed at idle it seems to have kind of vibration at idle, like a low frequency buzz. At speed it appears to go away. It's not horrible or anything, just noticeable, made more so by a flashlight I had in the hard side pocket of the 4-cup center console buzzing against the plastic.
What could be causing it and how to treat it? Doesn't seem like something worth taking to the dealer even though I'm still a little under the 36k mile original warranty.
I replaced the all 6 tires and all 3 rear u joints on my 03 dually and steering all feels tight but I still get a vibration above 60.
View 14 RepliesWhen I bought the truck it had some crap tires on it and the deal was that they had to put tires on it for me. I just picked it up and notice that I have a vibration at 40mph it then goes away by 45 then it comes back at 60 then gone by 65. The vibration feels like it is come from the rear.
View 3 RepliesI ran about 500 miles today loaded up pretty good and noticed every bump I hit that was enough to rock the truck and trailer that there was a noise I've never heard before. It was like the difference between asphalt and concrete road surfaces, but was only present when the springs were sufficiently compressed. Temps were between -10 when I left to 10 or so above when I was destinated. Would that cause the noise?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
I am experiencing a pretty noticeable vibration from the rear of the vehicle (steering wheel does not shake and I have no "death wobble") when hooked to my 14K trailer and also my stock trailer (to some degree). Happens constantly whether loaded or not, although it is a bit better when loaded. Happens much more on rougher country roads, but is still there on the interstates.
The trailer is new to me and I rebuilt the entire brake system, repacked bearings & tires have great tread, but have not had the tires spin balanced.
Can't tell whether a shock change (FX4 Rancho) will fix it or not.
I DO get a pretty severe roller coaster deal when hooked up and going over a dip. Truck just continues to bounce tail to nose, tail to nose, etc. That in itself is obviously shocks, but I am more concerned about the vibration.
Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
View 14 RepliesTruck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
2004 Excursion... 1st time into a 6.0 for me so I took my time. Truck has 192000miles.
PHP Ficm atlas 40, 58V Swamps
SCT Tuned via X4 (recently)(Extreme street at the time)
Synthetic 0w30 summer and 0w40 winter.
FORD filters ALWAYS, 5000mile intervals no pushing it
FORD fuel filters, BOTH regularly.
Studded, AFE Stage 2, Liberty EGR Delete.
42's, 4:88's with Detroit in rear
Highway driving and feel a stumble. Weird, then another, ok that wasn't a bump. Then steady rough idle and a heavy vibration when I lightly got back up to speed to get myself home.
Had new filters so started there. Just changed in the spring here and they were in pretty new condition but swapped them out anyway. Stripping the cap, 120 bucks and had to put a new one on.
Start truck and still rough idle, test drive and still a bad vibration.
SO, I read and search. Scanning with Ford or AE are my number one priorities and they were done along with Fuel pressure check.
Scan revieled Inj 6 out, fuel pressure at 60 PSI. We pulled plugs off injectors with results except 6, confirming it's not working.
Ordered an injector and the Aliant Power rebuild kits to freshen up the other 7.
Disassembled all 7, NO stiction problems at all and all 7 spool valves were clean as a whistle. Bodies of injectors were good on 6 of them and had a screen in cyl 3 what was completely gone (the 3 screens around the body of the injector). Tip was also plugged but one hole. (used brake cleaner in tip and air to confirm 6 holes were clear) Used the body of the core on that injector but not the spool part. Replaced all O-Rings incl the seal inside the top where rail snaps into. Sanded spools (800grit 2-3 turns) and installed same way they came out. Stem pipes and dummies new as well.
Reassemble, carefully and fire truck. WOW....running abit rough but smoother. Ive read it takes abit to get air out of system and to expect longer cranks ect. Shut it down. INspect for leaks. Button up the ficm, and few other things. Re-fire truck with abit longer of a crank. Fires and running smooth. HERE's where it starts acting up again. I can feel a small stumble....then another....then full time again. Exact same as before. Pull 6 off and it's that injector again.
Here's the big mistake I made. Reinstalling injectors, I put the new one in #4 spot and number 4 in 6's spot. Not smart, I know.
Pulling inj plugs off around entire motor while running and def No 6.
Put things away, call buddy and he says possible FICM. or harness.
So i pull inj harness and OHM every single pin and map it. 100%, I go grab his "good" ficm and test with that. HOLY COW, FOUND IT. Started great... Then as she warmed up ICP at650ish, EOT ECT getting to 100-110F (only a 4-5* delta always monitor) is starts to vibrate and run rough again.
Read some more....OHM testing is one thing, actually load testing harness confirms if it's actually no good. Harness is 450 bucks plus our lovely 13% tax so I want to diligently cross this bridge. Grab a harness off a running 6.0 and test next day.
Fires up and runs smooth. Then, as temps come up it starts again. Walked away last night and when I fired up this morning. Started great and as she warmed up vibration was back. Along with a intermittent squeak from the turbo housing area.
Codes.... SCT X4 tuner is reading nothing DTC's and hasn't since day one so I "assumed" no codes until buddy scanned with AE and since it's last WiFi update wouldn't connect to computer and gives me error code 10007 when I try to tune. **Ended up fixing last night, went into another "Tune revision update" and now connects to my computer AND returned my truck to STOCK and resested truck. Still running rough.
So I plug my PHP FICM tuner and get codes:
P1102 "Unkknown" (reading here I had my AFE off and not plugged in)
P0113 Intake air HI input
P0284 Cyl 8 cont/bal Fault
P0603 Internal control Module KAM error
P0611 FICM Perf (58v swamps, I've read always throws this code and I've had that code since day 1)
P0676 Glow #6 fail
Lastly I'll add, no smoke out tail pipe at all during all testing minus the black puff when tune loaded.
A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
2003 with 2005 motor, auto trans. After truck is warmed up and been driven a while I get a vibration/nice when stopped. Sometimes the Vibration changes with the brake peddle application. Is there a ps hose that can go bad internally on these? Anything else to look for. It's easy to hear/feel in the cab but can't hear it under the hood. Changed the ps fluid with no change.
View 14 RepliesOccasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.