Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Turbo Hiss On Driver Side Under The Hood
Aug 15, 2016
Yesterday as I was getting on the freeway , and I was really laying into the throttle, I all of a sudden started hearing the turbo hiss on the drivers side of under the hood. This new noise is not going away.
It only starts to make the hiss noise starting at 7-8 psi and up. It is very loud in the cab with the windows up when it creates boost. I checked the up pipe connection to the turbo from my y-pipe, it is sealed really good.
There is NO loss of power, No exhaust smell at all. Just a loud hissing sound on the drivers side of the engine bay and ONLY when I press the go-go pedal.
I have also re-tightened the CAC tube boots as well.
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I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
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Last night when I was towing my son's Ranger home - somebody stole all his gas & he thought the fuel pump quit - heard a pop and the truck started running like crap. Thought I had blown the CAC boot loose but that wasn't the case. As it turns out, the tube for the EBP sensor came off from the manifold.
I had taken it loose about a year ago to clean it out. I guess I didn't tighten it well enough. Truck blew black smoke, lost boost, and filled the cab with exhaust fumes. Easy enough fix, kind of hard to diagnose because that's not expected. Just throwing it out the for somebody's future search.
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I have a family member that has a stock 2016 6.7 Auto F350 XL DRW that is less than a year old, has 85k on it and is developing an oil leak on the drivers side of the engine. What are the possible culprits and any pictures that I can forward to him of those places.
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Is there a way to program all four doors to unlock when the truck stops? The driver's side unlocks but the other doors do not. This is annoying, but I can't seem to find anything about how to accomplish the auto unlock...
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so i cant quite tell where its coming from, but here is a picture. it seems to be coming from just even with the drivers side exhaust manifold towards the back. from what i can see the top valley looks clean. it seems to only leak while its running. and it leaks quite a lot. its close to the bell housing so im guessing a rear main but i don't know. i hope its not!
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I would like to replace my drivers side window. It has some deep scratches and with the windows tinted it really shows. Been looking for place to buy from but can't seem to find one.
The only one I found was on Amazon but was trying to find one cheaper or with no shipping charge.
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Drivers side headlight is very dim or not even working with new bulbs. Occasionally it will come on. High beam light is always very dim until you click high beams then its bright blue
Short?
Bad switch??
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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I have a new 04 F350 with only 2300 miles on it. Every once in awhile, I will get a sound coming from under the driver side of the vehicle engine compartment that sounds like back pressure being released. It happens when I am up around 2000 or more rpms and let off of the accelerator. I am gonna take the truck into the shop the first of next week just to get it checked but thought I would ask here first. It only happens when i am above 2000 rpms though.
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Any recommendations on brake calipers and hose?
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I'm sure I could start tugging on it and the clips would show themselves, but I'd rather not break any unseen clips or screw points. Is there a picture aided how-to for the removal of the drivers side of a dash on a 2012 f250? My tuner comes today and I'd prefer a clean install.
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So ford is replacing 8 injectors for me and they found this. They are trying to tell me bad oil cooler but I do not believe it. What do you all think is the cause. I should also say that I had coolant in my drivers side exhaust manifold.
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Front Driver's Side
Front Passenger Side
2015 F350 have this issue. I parked the truck in the garage today to do some detail cleaning, and noticed it sagging on the driver's side. Seems like the front coil springs are weak on the driver's side. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. They are going to look at it tomorrow. Look at the images, it's almost an inch difference. Truck has never been off-road yet, only has 4000 miles. At first I thought it was a low tire but I checked both tires have 70 PSI. Then I thought it was the floor so I measured from the tire to the fender and got the same results.
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Today, I noticed some moisture in my drives side tail light lens. Of course I'm a few months past the bumper to bumper warranty.
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Couldn't make it 10,000 miles........without a failure.
My driver's side mirror finally broke. It will no longer power fold. It's been slowly dying over the last few weeks, getting slower and slower. Now it won't move on it's own and the electric motor hardly makes any noise/effort trying to move the mirror.
I would assume that should be replaced under warranty but who knows... We'll see what service says about it tomorrow.
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I have an air leak sound coming from I believe the driver side. Sounds like an air line from a compressor leaking. Could see anything obvious last night or hear well over engine. When driving it's pushing more air. Nothing looked/felt loose. Didn't find any air blowing were I could stick my hand in a hot engine. Doesn't seem to have performance issue, maybe a little more turbo delay.
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My truck is running fine but it sounds like there is an air leak on the drivers side of the truck. When it first happened I was passing a car and it sounded like a vacuum hose come loose. It made a loud hissing sound. Now I have come to the conclusion it must be associated with the turbo. I don't hear the hiss unless I get into the truck and the turbo starts making boost. The more boost is made the louder the hissing sound is.
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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Whose bright idea was it to have the damn tray attached to the puke tank making it impossible to remove by itself? What am I doing wrong?
I'm replacing my batteries and one of the hold down bolts slipped down off the tray underneath it somewhere. I removed all the bolts holding in the tray and find that it is attached to the puke tank?! (Coolant reservoir). How the heck to I get to that bolt?
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Earlier this week, I had the p1260 pop up. Then while driving to the beach, I had the p2290 pop up. I do not actually have a check engine light on, but used my torque app to find the codes. I have found a oil leak on the driver side coming from somewhere. I have a mishimoto thermostat coming in next week. I will try to collect parts needed for this repair. From my understanding, it's a hpop leak and the adrenaline and stc fitting should be my next move.
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