What could be causing my turbo to be fluctuating while accelerating? I can definitely hear the difference in the sound of the air and today while towing my camper I could even see the dash gauge bouncing around some.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 with 186K miles. I do minor work on my vehicles but have little experience working on my diesel. I was accelerating when I heard a pop and a hiss similar to disconnecting an air hose from an air compressor. Total loss of turbo power. No turbo reading on the turbo gauge on dash. No loss of oil. No smoke. Oil and coolant look fine. Took off turbo and everything appeared to operate like it should (according to YouTube videos). Inspected lines and rubber boots.
Rubber has some cracks but not certain if they are holes. How small/large of a hole would cause total loss? Was originally scared to take it to a shop knowing they could name their price. Not opposed to taking it somewhere now knowing the turbo works but obviously would rather save the money. Any tips on troubleshooting? I'm not opposed to proactively replacing parts/sensors as the truck has given me 186k and I plan to keep it as long as possible.
Truck Details:
2004 6.0 F250 extended cab.
Mileage: 1,162,000 Kilometres (the dash stopped at 999,999)
Egr is deleted.
Motor has approximately 120,000 miles on it.
The previous owner delivered campers with it. He said that almost everything in had been replaced except the transmission.
I've had an intermittent crank, no start since I've owned the truck. (2.5 years) It's only happened maybe 5 times and the second attempt was always successful....until yesterday morning.
It threw a few codes but none I believe related to the no-start. One code for a transfer case issue, one for a turbo under-boost, one for the ac clutch not communicating, one for the exhaust pressure sensor not communicating. I would list the actual code #'s but after the first scan I reset them due to my ignorance.
While cranking I get the following numbers:
FICM LPWR- 11 to 12.5 volts
FICM MPWR- 47.5 to 48.5 volts
ICP v- up to 1.8 volts
ICP pressure- up to 1493 psi
IPR %- 15 to 55%
No FICM sync
No ckp/cmp sync
RPM- 0 to 60 and fluctuating
FUELPW- 0.00 ms
I've checked hertz across the red and orange wire at the centre plug of the pcm while cranking and i believe it tested good at 1.4 hertz. The batteries are both getting old and I plan on replacing them but the voltage seems adequate.
The following Forscan tests all checked out good.
PCM KOEO
PCM KOEO injector electrical
TCM KOEO
There were a few others but I think they're irrelevant and they checked out good anyway. I've visually inspected for chaffing but I need to look harder still. There were definitely no codes regarding the cpm, ckp or ficm. Based on what I've read, the fluctuating rpm reading should point to something I'm not aware of.
So any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
I have an 04 and the ICP sensor is in the easy spot to get to on the valve cover vs under the turbo (that's awesome) so its an easy swap. but just wondering if there is any way to test it over simply swapping it. I do not have a monitor yet but a dongle is on order and will get the torque app for my tablet.
As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
Weird thing happened today. Was out running errands, and upon pulling out into traffic I felt the truck lag a little. I figured it was the typical trans hiccup we all experience from time to time. As I continue driving, I notice I don't have any turbo boost.
I'm cruising around 55-60 and when I slowly give it gas......No boost. I stomp it and the turbo gauge slowly climbs to about 12 psi. At this point I waiting for the truck to throw a warning message and none came.
As I'm reaching my destination, the speed limit is 30 so I'm just putting along and any acceleration I did, the boost needle wouldn't move. I arrive at the store, and when I got back in 5 minutes later and drove off, My boost was back. Truck operated normal for the 25 minute trip home. I thought a similar thread was started but I couldn't find it.
My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?
View 8 RepliesStill working on this E450. Now, I'm trying to get the turbo back on and I don't know how the heck to get the oil tube in.
There's so little room that I can't lift the turbo up. Just getting it in and out is a chore. I was able to pull the oil tube out with some difficulty when I was removing the turbo, but if it put it in first, the turbo won't go over it to get back in. If I leave it disconnected to get the turbo in, I have no way to reach under it to get the oil tube back in.
I only messed with it for a little while - it's physically difficult bending over inside the van to wrestle with it - and will go back at it first thing in the morning. I know there's gotta be a way, I've just never done this before.
Do I stick the tube in the turbo first, in the engine, or neither until I got the turbo in place?
I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
View 9 Replies2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
I have an F450 with a 6.0 turbo diesel with 267000 miles std trans. 4wd and just bought it a few weeks ago. When the engine is cold, the truck runs fine but after driving for 15 minutes, I loose power in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. The gauge for the turbo drops from 20 down to 5 and the truck starts blowing black smoke. This starts at 1500 rpms and stops when I am past 2200 rpms.
Before 1600 rpms and after 2200 rpms, the truck has lots of power but withing those ranges, the truck has almost no power at all. When I first got the truck, the problem didn't start until I was up to 1800 rpms. No codes showing up either. I had the truck serviced by a diesel mechanic and the filters replaced using Ford parts. Problem persists and only exists when the engine is warm.
I just recently repaired issues with my 6.0 and now new issues has begun. The turbo keeps blowing the pipes out of the rubber hoses. Not sure what is happening or why so a little insight would be useful.
Oh yeah out of all the work completed in my previous post..don't bother replacing the solenoid section of the injectors. I replaced two the bad ones, rebuilt the other 6 with new everything including a cleaning and now I am getting codes for 3 that are going bad. Oh well I tried right...
Ok so I just replaced the oil cooler, added 2 coolant filters, changed the oil/filter, and both fuel filters, and installed the updated turbo drain tube. I get it all back together, it takes a minute before it will fire but I figured that was normal for not having any oil in the sump under the cooler and changing both fuel filters. Everything seems fine, checking for leaks and I notice that I don't hear the whistle of the turbo so I go look at my edge CT and have zero boost and it stays at zero even if I rev it a bit. Obviously I didn't redline it or run it for very long maybe a total of 10 minutes over several times.
I will note that I did find a plug for the driver side injectors wasn't plugged in the first time I started it, but I shut it down pretty quick and plugged it in. So then after I noticed the turbo not spooling I used the chip to pull the codes and had a whole bunch related to the unplugged harness and one for turbo underboost. Figured it was because the harness was unplugged so I just cleared the codes and tried again, now I'm not getting any codes but I'm also not getting any turbo boost the only code that it is throwing is the P1000 "on-board diagnostic systems readiness test not complete" do I need to go drive it for the learning sequence because I had the batteries disconnected for a couple days?
Would there be much oil in the down pipe if the oil deal was leaking on the turbo? I broke it loose to look at it and not much there, one small area that looked like it has had on it..
View 13 RepliesOn Friday my turn shaft broke, 70 mph on the highway. As soon as it broke burned oil like a freight train, I know seal in the turbo. Bought brand new Garrett turbo installed last night. Let idle for 5 minuets and went and drove it and it burns oil once I get on it. Drove it for about 3 miles comes and goes? I did break a piece of the turbo vane off 1/4 inch by 1/4. The truck runs fine no knocks or misses. Could this just be oil left over or is there something else I should be looking for?
View 2 RepliesI haven't been on for a while, but I'm trying to figure out if I have a slight turbo issue.
Turbo pulsing ? I am experiencing this, it just started about 3 months ago. First time it did it, I thought the truck was going into exhaust cleaning mode. Not the case. It doesn't do it with the cruise off, but with the cruise on it's like it can't decide if it needs boost or not.
Boost is pulsing between about 2-3 psi to 10 psi. No check engine light on to speak of. Now that I'm thinking about it. I think the turbo is falling flat with the motor cold too, or maybe it's a cold tranny..... gotta watch that closer.
What's the purpose of the pedestal sensor
View 1 RepliesHad a bad turbo on my 07 F550 with a 6.0. Replaced it today and took her for a ride. Started smoking and oil was spitting out of the weep hole in the muffler. A lot of smoke. The truck was smoking before I replaced the turbo too but I didn't have any oil coming out of the weep hole. I'm hoping it is just oil that had been passed into the exhaust by the bad turbo that is now being burnt off and pushed out by the new turbo. Does this sound plausible?
View 1 RepliesHaving an issue with my 05 f350. Seems when I chomp on the the throttle I get tons of boost 30 lbs plus with no power. Seems most prevalent when starting on a hill , or hard on the throttle off the line . Also getting turbo "bark " when backing off throttle. It's less prevalent when feathering the throttle and usually more noticeable 1/2 throttle or more. I'm thinking could be the Vgt actuator or clogged/ dirty ebp sensor?
View 10 Replies