Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Won't Start When Engine Warm
Nov 29, 2009
I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home.
Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours then shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again.
I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds.
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If the truck is cold when i put it in drive it engages fine. Drive to the store, start it up again after its warm, I then need to rev to 800 rpm to get it to engage. Once drive is engaged one time i can go from park to drive, rev to drive doesn't matter it works correct every time. Rebuilt the transmission with suncoast kit. New precision industries billet torque converter. New trans pump, new valve body, replaced all pistons and seal rings. Replaced all the solenoids except lo rev and overdrive. Will change those in the next couple days. Side note transmission had this exact issue before i rebuilt it. Exhaust back pressure reads 55 to 60 psi at idle. I replaced sensor, cleaned pipe, and checked the wires for cuts. Previous owner had a smoke switch wired up at some point but he removed it before i bought it. Truck is tuned by innovative, sxt livewire... does the same thing with stock tune.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
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Left on hunting trip last Thurs. Blew tire on trailer 6 miles from home. Shut off truck. Went to restart, cranks only. No codes. Towed home.
Thought it might be a fuel filter problem. Had just changed oil/filter and fuel filters prior to trip. Checked filters, upper bowl was low. Turned key to on and bowl filled up. Noticed filter wasn't snapped in lid. Also checked lower filter.
Drove it to work this am. Turned off truck and tried to restart to check. NO START-Cranks fine!!!
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I have a 03 350 with a 6.0 . The truck starts fine in the morning and runs great all day as long as you don't shut it off. It's not going to start until the morning. It will crank over fine, the fuel pump seems to be working, its like there is no power to the injectors. I don't have a wiring diagram so not sure which relays are for injectors. Could the ficm be causing it? Is there a site where I can download a fuel sys schematic ?
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My 04 6.0h started puffing bluish colored smoke typically only when I was accelerating. After a short amount of time I noticed it was smoking quite a bit when cold and until it had fully warmed up. I took it to the repair shop and they pulled it apart saying the turbo seal had failed and the turbo was full of oil. I purchased a new Garret PowerMax and had it put it in.
I picked up my truck and of course it was still smoking when cold. After it warmed up nothing, just like before. Since I just put a new turbo in I am worried this one will be ruined as well since the same condition exist. My mechanic said I need to run the truck for few days before the oil would get cleared out which had accumulated in the system. Am I mistaken in thinking that if it was residual oil burning that it would be more likely to do smoke when warm as opposed to when cold?
Since the turbo and seal have now been replaced what else should I look for to cure my blue smoke blues?
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2003 with hot no start issues. It starts fine in the morning however will not start again after the engine gets warm, after an hour or so of cooling off it will eventually go. Not sure if I should start with.... Readings below ....
FICM L 13.5v
FICM M 48v koeo and 47 running
IPR 14.7% koeo
IPR 74.6% cranking (no start while hot)
IPR 40% (after cold start while running
ICP 737psi cold start
ICP 1600psi engine running 2k rpm
ICP 360 hot while cranking
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My best friend has a 2011 Ford F-250 6.7 ltd power stroke diesel XL. He was driving to Denver in -4 degree weather when all of a sudden his windows iced up and the temperature gage would not sit at normal operating range. ( stayed all the way down on the cool side) the heater seemed to be blowing warm air not hot like it usually does. The thermostat was changed 2 months ago any thoughts on this one?
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I have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
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Like the title says I'm having an issue the past few days where I can't drive this truck more than a few miles before it starts acting up with rough idle at stoplights/sign and sluggish acceleration until it gets over 1200+rpm.
Cold starts fine, drives good till engine warms up to around 130+ECT then it starts acting up. Stumbles on acceleration for little bit and puts out a little black smoke until it gets moving. No check engine light or codes found.
However a month ago I had the check engine light come on with a P0404 & P0405 and it still started & ran/drove great even towing. If I reset the code it would stay off until I restarted the engine the next time. I replaced the Dorman EGR because it had a lifetime warranty and only had 5,000 miles on the first one. The code did not go away until about two weeks ago the light went off on the dash and has never come back but I had not erased the code? So I'm not sure if this is still lingering issue or what.
I was checking my ScangaugeII when I came back home today while the engine was still idling rough and this what I saw for Numbers:
Low idle in Park
ECT 193
EOT 191
FICM 49.0
IPR 21.4
ICP 582
ICV 0.81
V 13.8
TFC 1.91
VSS(fan speed) 0
(This one doesn't seem right in the past is 500 or more rpm from what I remember?) What am I missing to check over?
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
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I have a may 2003 6.0l f350 4x4 ,autoenginuity scanner, recently bought the truck starts fine and idles well then when engine get warm it starts to smoke unburnt fuel (white) volume of fuel desired on scanner goes from about 14 mm~3 to 27mm~3 and starts to run rough if you depress the acellerator the motor smooths out and the fuel desired goes down. No coolant smell. egr cooler removed ,oil cooler replaced, exhaust back pressure sensor and tube cleaned .ebp sensor koeo 14.2, eo 17 but jumped to 54.0 when map was at 17, bp 31.20 .... The AE is new to me Also found a superchip tuner under the back seat ...
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Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
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Just replaced injector 4, oil cooler and did egr delete. Ficm is at 48 and truck will not kick over. New batteries installed.
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Ok I have this issue that I noticed on my new 2011. May sound weird but the wipers come on when I start the truck every time. Not sure if this is normal but I thought maybe I was bumping the lever thing but it does it anyway. I don't like that doing it cause of snow laying on the windshield in the morning will be a pain.
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A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
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2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
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So my 06 6.0 4x4 is just about to break 200,000km and I've done most of the upgrades and work myself. (All the updates are in my Sig). My problem is that when I'm cruising and the engine is at full operating temp, if Im bellow 80-100km/h nothing but as soon as I break into that speed range about 2000rpm the truck will start to shudder. Almost feels like its not firing properly is the best way to describe it. Why this could be happening or causing it?
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Today the truck struggled to start after filling up, even harder the next time, and now it's in my driveway dead and I have a job at work that requires me to go to Michigan next week that I can't afford to lose. On to the issue...
When cranking, my icp won't go above 400psi now, and I understand I need Atleast 500 to fire off. I'm mechanically inclined but new to diesels, so don't be afraid to dumb it down...can't be cocky when your learning. Where should I start my troubleshooting?
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